I thought I did enough research on these tires, but never ran across the issues with the inner diameter being on the small side. Trying to mount Milestar Patagonia 37x12.5 R17's on 17" Method 105 beadlock rims. The outer bead will not stretch over the bead lock flange. Tire irons, screw drivers, rubber mallet, gallons of soap and water. Anyone have any insights on how to get this done? Might have bought the wrong tires. Made in Indonesia.... Should have gotten Goodyears.
Major issues mounting Milestar Patagonia MT's on Method 105 Beadlocks. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OutlawMike
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I have no experience with Patagonia tires, However Method recommends you use beadlock spacers for tires over 35". I have BGF MK3 37x12.5's and they fit, however it really measures 35.5. If you call their 800 number you'll be connected to the supplier which is West Cost Wheels. They can assist you/ sell you a spacer kit. Also don't forget you will need the ET lug nuts as well.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the tips. I do have the spacers, but cannot get to that point. The inner diameter of the outer bead will not go over the short flange and seat down on the outer bead. After that I would put the spacers on and then the bead lock ring. All the videos I watch the tire either just falls on there, or maybe they have to stretch a short section over the flange and then they can move on the to the ring. Not these tires. 1/3 of the circumference needs to be stretched over the flange. I have a third set of hands coming over today, maybe we can get enough screw drivers on it to seat one. Oh, and I have the ET nuts, thanks.
I have a motorcycle stand from harbor freight for my dirk bike which works even better than a 5 gallon bucket for this. It snugly holds a 15 without moving and would probably for for larger tires too.
As for the OP, when I was mounting my toyos, I had to suck down the outer bead one side at a time and then start the lock ring and pull the original four bolts I started. I did not have a size issue though, just width of the tire.
@woody you are a Milestar guy. Ever run into this issue?
I've done 37's and 40's onto Raceline beadlocks. Both sets installed with zero issues, got the 40's down to 15 minutes per tire, including torque time for the beadlock ring.
A set of Iroks from 10+ years ago, installed onto Trailready beadlocks, required 4 long bolts to get started, then you began using the normal length beadlock bolts. Believe I did the same process when I switched to Pitbulls on those Trailready's too. Keep a small screwdriver handy to "persuade" the lip of the tire to seat properly before torquing the ring.
Also, it helps if the tires are warm (ie: in the sun). Battled this issue with new MTB tires just a couple weeks back, trying to get them to seat tubeless.
Sorry woody, meant the original post, his tire apparently has a smaller diameter than his rim size for the beadlocks and the front bead won't fit but the back bead seals fine
The rim has a step on the outside near where the lock ring clamps. Trail Readys were very tight, as we're Allied steelies. Racelines were not.
Every wheel has a diameter tolerance, and so does every tire. Find a wheel at the max and a bead at the min and it can be tricky.
- Thread starter
- #9
I think that is what I have. The tire and rim combo at that step leave me with about 1/3 of the inner diameter circumference to pry over onto the step. The step is only about 1/4" tall. We got one tire on one wheel with four guys and 8 screwdrivers. Scratched the crap out of the rim at that step, but it is all inside the bead area. The inner bead does not easily slide on either. We filled the tire and it took 20 PSI for the inner bead to finally pop out and seat. And yes, it was swamped with soapy water.
The beadlock ring spacers are required for this tire / rim combo. We tried without them first, but had the bolts torqued properly and could still get a .010" feeler gauge between the rim and the beadlock ring. So, undid everything, put the spacers in, and then re-torqued. The ring seated nicely onto the spacer, no air gap any longer. You want that beadlock ring fully seated on metal, otherwise as the tire expands and contracts those bolts will come loose.
Moved on to pulling the differentials for this build and ignored the rest of the tires. Will try setting them out in the sun next time and put the rims in the freezer....
To answer a few other questions, yes, we have the tire/rim on a stool that contacts only the backside of the rim so that the tire hangs down with gravity and wants to seat the beads. The stool is nice and tall, so, I do not have to bend over to torque the bolts.
Thanks guys,
Mike
- Thread starter
- #10
Update for anyone having the same problem. Put them out in the sun this weekend, did not really help at all. Could not get any of the tires to seat with just my son and I and 4 screw drivers. Did some brainstorming at work today and one of my fellow engineers suggested using bolts in the bead lock ring holes with large fender washers to hold the tire in place after a section is seated. Had to buy 1" long bolts, bolts with beadlock ring are too long. Worked like a charm. We started with two of the bolts/washers at about 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Put one it at 6 o'clock to retain that half of the tire. Then started working from 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock towards noon. Alternated from one side to the other until we had the tire fully over the short step in the rim. It was not easy getting the last three bolts/washers in place, but it could not come back out, so, just took our time and got it over the step. After it was seated, took the bolts/washers out in an alternating fashion. Tire stayed in place, slapped some more soapy water on it, then the spacers, then the bead lock ring, then torque it all down. Will do the rest tomorrow. Picture below.
