- Thread starter
- #141
Valves all back in the head. Dang....that's a lot of little valve keepers. Glad that part is over with.
Maintenance...Water Pump, T-Stat, Oil Cooler, Flush Engine/Radiator, now head-gasket blown :( (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter flintknapper
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Cleaning the Upper Intake this morning. Yeah, I know...cleaning the 'runners' will make absolutely no 'measurable' difference AND they are just going to get dirty again (like piston tops). But I just can't put dirty parts back on my 'baby'.
If you don't clean anything else....be sure to clean the mating surfaces on the upper and lower intake:
This is a good time to replace the Vacuum Hoses underneath the upper intake, it can be bought bulk in 3' lengths:
And just for those who haven't looked at the Upper Intake much, the top and bottom views (lots of stuff underneath).
If you don't clean anything else....be sure to clean the mating surfaces on the upper and lower intake:
This is a good time to replace the Vacuum Hoses underneath the upper intake, it can be bought bulk in 3' lengths:
And just for those who haven't looked at the Upper Intake much, the top and bottom views (lots of stuff underneath).
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- #143
Just generally looking over the engine compartment this morning and reached down to spin the A/C tensioner pulley. It didn't make any noise BUT it spun a bit too freely meaning the bearing was low on grease or the grease had migrated away from the ball bearings and dried up.
I don't remember having replaced the bearing or pulley in the 20 years I've had my Cruiser so....off it came for a clean up and new bearing.
A definite plus of not living in the rust belt...is that parts are normally easy to remove and nuts and bolts, etc....can just be wiped down and reused. I'll put a light coat of paint on the pulley and install the new bearing when it comes in.
I have the bearing ordered.....but for those needing to replace theirs...I can save you the trouble of looking it up:
NSK 6301 DDU (12mm x 37mm x 12mm). It is a deep groove bearing with seals on both sides.
Just remove the snap ring that retains it, turn the pulley over, tap it out with a drift punch.
Edit: Something in the back of my mind (tiny as it is) was telling me I already had a 'spare' tensioner pulley. So I got to looking around in my parts box and sure enough...there it was. Oh well....I will put this one on and still have a 'spare' when the new bearing comes in. Why didn't my mind 'nag' me BEFORE I pulled this one apart.
Maybe I should check and see if I've got a Spare Land Cruiser back there someplace. The older you get the worse your 'CRS' gets.
I don't remember having replaced the bearing or pulley in the 20 years I've had my Cruiser so....off it came for a clean up and new bearing.
A definite plus of not living in the rust belt...is that parts are normally easy to remove and nuts and bolts, etc....can just be wiped down and reused. I'll put a light coat of paint on the pulley and install the new bearing when it comes in.
I have the bearing ordered.....but for those needing to replace theirs...I can save you the trouble of looking it up:
NSK 6301 DDU (12mm x 37mm x 12mm). It is a deep groove bearing with seals on both sides.
Just remove the snap ring that retains it, turn the pulley over, tap it out with a drift punch.
Edit: Something in the back of my mind (tiny as it is) was telling me I already had a 'spare' tensioner pulley. So I got to looking around in my parts box and sure enough...there it was. Oh well....I will put this one on and still have a 'spare' when the new bearing comes in. Why didn't my mind 'nag' me BEFORE I pulled this one apart.
Maybe I should check and see if I've got a Spare Land Cruiser back there someplace. The older you get the worse your 'CRS' gets.
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- Thread starter
- #144
OK.....I'd do THIS differently next time: (left the lower intake in place).
Nearly impossible to clean it very well when left in place or pulled over to the side. This isn't technical work....its just hard to get to.
It it easily the most time consuming thing I've done so far and I still have 3 runners to go. Got the outside of it fairly clean, the mating surfaces clean and the bores for the fuel injectors cleaned up...but the 'runners' are sheer murder.
Going to go back at it later. Had to walk away from it for a bit, regroup, add a 'keychain' to the head and pick up some of the mess I've made.
Nearly impossible to clean it very well when left in place or pulled over to the side. This isn't technical work....its just hard to get to.
It it easily the most time consuming thing I've done so far and I still have 3 runners to go. Got the outside of it fairly clean, the mating surfaces clean and the bores for the fuel injectors cleaned up...but the 'runners' are sheer murder.
Going to go back at it later. Had to walk away from it for a bit, regroup, add a 'keychain' to the head and pick up some of the mess I've made.
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- Thread starter
- #145
So....we all know what this Big Bolt goes to right?
While waiting on other parts...figured I'd go ahead and put the Crank Pulley back on, get that out of the way.
3/4" breaker bar wedged under the frame and torque wrench in place:
This is 'dynamic' torque not 'static'....so close enough, lucky to get it this close without over shooting.
All Done......!
While waiting on other parts...figured I'd go ahead and put the Crank Pulley back on, get that out of the way.
3/4" breaker bar wedged under the frame and torque wrench in place:
This is 'dynamic' torque not 'static'....so close enough, lucky to get it this close without over shooting.
All Done......!
- Thread starter
- #147
So...after spending hours and hours cleaning my Upper and Lower intake halves, I am fully committed to deleting the EGR and adding an Oil Separator. Just can't see how all that crud going back through the engine could be good for it.
- Thread starter
- #148
Yes, heater valve (the original) was definitely in need of replacement. Got an OEM shipped to me in 3 days from the Middle East. Had to wait almost 10 stinking days to get a Cap and Rotor from Arizona. I could have walked there and picked it up in that amount of time.
- Thread starter
- #149
A little info about 'stabbing' your Distributor (when it's been out). Some folks have trouble with this...others not.
Aside from the possibility of having your engine be 180° out (not on compression stroke #1 cylinder), you can mis-set your distributor as well... which can make 'timing' more difficult depending upon how far off you are.
Toyota tries to make this fairly simple for us....by providing match marks on the distributor.
So...beginning with a clean distributor (install a new O-Ring, inspect dust seal, rotor and cap and replace them if old).
Locate the match marks (one on distributor body, the other on the gear). Paint them if you are having trouble seeing them. Line these up before you insert the distributor into the bore of the head. Try not to let them move.
With your Match Marks aligned your rotor will be pointing to approximately the 10 O'Clock position. Look to see that the center of the slot that the locking bolt goes through is roughly lined up with the threaded portion of the head. Then slowly push the distributor in. DO NOT twist it back and forth.
The distributor gear is helical cut....so as it engages the drive sprocket on the cam it will turn the rotor clockwise. It should move about the distance represented below (starts at the white arrow, ends up at the yellow).
Now... IF you haven't moved things or gotten off a tooth (it happens) the rotor should be pointing at about the left edge of the connector on the distributor.
This should get your timing 'close enough' to let the engine fire. You'll set the final timing later.
Reconnect all of your spark plugs leads (if they had previously been removed).
Your # 1 Spark Plug post is as shown below:
Rotation is Counter Clockwise and the firing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Aside from the possibility of having your engine be 180° out (not on compression stroke #1 cylinder), you can mis-set your distributor as well... which can make 'timing' more difficult depending upon how far off you are.
Toyota tries to make this fairly simple for us....by providing match marks on the distributor.
So...beginning with a clean distributor (install a new O-Ring, inspect dust seal, rotor and cap and replace them if old).
Locate the match marks (one on distributor body, the other on the gear). Paint them if you are having trouble seeing them. Line these up before you insert the distributor into the bore of the head. Try not to let them move.
With your Match Marks aligned your rotor will be pointing to approximately the 10 O'Clock position. Look to see that the center of the slot that the locking bolt goes through is roughly lined up with the threaded portion of the head. Then slowly push the distributor in. DO NOT twist it back and forth.
The distributor gear is helical cut....so as it engages the drive sprocket on the cam it will turn the rotor clockwise. It should move about the distance represented below (starts at the white arrow, ends up at the yellow).
Now... IF you haven't moved things or gotten off a tooth (it happens) the rotor should be pointing at about the left edge of the connector on the distributor.
This should get your timing 'close enough' to let the engine fire. You'll set the final timing later.
Reconnect all of your spark plugs leads (if they had previously been removed).
Your # 1 Spark Plug post is as shown below:
Rotation is Counter Clockwise and the firing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Super helpful to see it in pictures. Gonna be installing the head soon so this is very timely.
- Thread starter
- #151
Pretty close to putting mine back on. Been doing a lot of while you're in there things or tending to things that would be more difficult to reach with the head, intake or valve cover in place.
Love to hear about yours when you are finished.
Flint.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I have been slowly fixing everything that isn’t broke but it will! and pulled the valve cover today to fix leaks. You have inspired me to dig deeper and just get it done. It’s only money! Thanks for the awesome thread. Gotta Hunt down a torque wrench big enough to put the crank bolt back on once I pull it.
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- #153
Exceptionally clean underneath your Valve Cover. Good to replace the gasket there from time to time.
The Valve Cover has built in 'stops' that will not allow the gasket to be compressed beyond a certain point, so attempting to 'tighten' Valve Cover bolts in hopes of stopping a leak is fruitless and can result in twisting off a bolt in the head.
The gasket simply dries out over time, becomes hard and unable to seal. So it's really a 'maintenance' item IMO.
Spark Plug tube seals should probably be inspected at the same time. Your engine looks great. Good job!
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- Thread starter
- #154
Changing out fluids while waiting on parts to arrive.
Removing Drain/Fill plugs has proved a challenge for some and its understandable if you weren't the last person to install/remove the plug. So many variables here that can present problems (Over-tightened plug, Rusty Plug, Damaged Plug, etc..)
The factory plugs (at least the older ones) have a very shallow hex head. And since nearly all sockets have a 'lead-in' or bevel to them, they don't fully engage the plug head. Of course....this results in the socket 'camming' off of the plug head, usually damaging it in the process.
One solution (has been posted on MUD many times) has always worked for me and might help others if you use it BEFORE the plug is all buggered up.
Take a 15/16" Six Point Socket and grind it down past the Bevel/Lead-In. This will let the socket fully contact the head of the plug. I've never had a problem removing the plugs using this method...but it does require that the plug head NOT be previously damaged.
And guys...when you reinstall the plug, use anti-seize (anti-seize is your friend).
Removing Drain/Fill plugs has proved a challenge for some and its understandable if you weren't the last person to install/remove the plug. So many variables here that can present problems (Over-tightened plug, Rusty Plug, Damaged Plug, etc..)
The factory plugs (at least the older ones) have a very shallow hex head. And since nearly all sockets have a 'lead-in' or bevel to them, they don't fully engage the plug head. Of course....this results in the socket 'camming' off of the plug head, usually damaging it in the process.
One solution (has been posted on MUD many times) has always worked for me and might help others if you use it BEFORE the plug is all buggered up.
Take a 15/16" Six Point Socket and grind it down past the Bevel/Lead-In. This will let the socket fully contact the head of the plug. I've never had a problem removing the plugs using this method...but it does require that the plug head NOT be previously damaged.
And guys...when you reinstall the plug, use anti-seize (anti-seize is your friend).
- Thread starter
- #155
One quick tip on cleaning the mating surfaces of parts. Parts that can be removed and rinsed off...or parts where a bit of stray grit doesn't matter (or can be removed), can be quickly cleaned using a Sanding Sponge.
I know a lot of folks use Scotchbrite pads and they have their place... but for surfaces that are flat (and need to stay that way) Sanding Sponges make quick work of removing residue.
Intake manifold mating surfaces are good candidates and small parts like the Water Inlet shown below.
Just use common sense and consider where they can be helpful and where NOT to use them. Really takes a lot of the work out of cleaning certain surfaces.
Can be found in the Painting Supply area of any Big Box Store.
I know a lot of folks use Scotchbrite pads and they have their place... but for surfaces that are flat (and need to stay that way) Sanding Sponges make quick work of removing residue.
Intake manifold mating surfaces are good candidates and small parts like the Water Inlet shown below.
Just use common sense and consider where they can be helpful and where NOT to use them. Really takes a lot of the work out of cleaning certain surfaces.
Can be found in the Painting Supply area of any Big Box Store.
- Thread starter
- #157
Also, if you look for a six point socket that has 'reliefs' (does NOT engage the points of the hex) it will only contact the flat sides of plug. That is why I chose the Wright brand socket.
And to be clear...removing the Lead-In bevel was far from MY idea, it has been around a long time and someone else gets the credit for that smart maneuver. I just put pics to it....for those who are more visual than abstract learners (me).
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- #158
Seal Repair Kit for my Power Steering Pump showed up today. So once the Valve Spring for it comes....I'll be ready to tackle that project. My pump is running fine...but it's old and has a lot of miles on it....so why not freshen it up and replace all the hoses along the way. That will pretty much complete my 'while you're in there' list and I can move forward with installing the head.
@flintknapper, just curious what your thoughts are at this point in the job of removing the engine (or engine and transmission) to do the work you're doing. I've read several posts on this topic, and most who have done it both ways seem to favor pulling the engine when doing the HG. On the other hand, if you're working alone and don't have easy access to a buddy to help pull the motor, I think that sounds like a difficult and potentially dangerous job. Certainly all the 'while you're in there' stuff seems much easier when the 'in there' is in the garage rather than laying on a board on the engine bay in the driveway. Just curious what you think at this point.
Thanks for the detailed work and photos in this thread, it's very helpful to many people, myself included.
Thanks for the detailed work and photos in this thread, it's very helpful to many people, myself included.
- Thread starter
- #160
Pump is out of vehicle, prepped for surgery and under general anesthesia.
Going to tear it down later this evening and see what the insides look like.
Probably wait until tomorrow to clean and reassemble.
Going to tear it down later this evening and see what the insides look like.
Probably wait until tomorrow to clean and reassemble.
