Maintenance: SPC Adjustable UCAs, Inner & Outer Tie Rods, both Axles, Front Sway Links and Diff Drop X-member (1 Viewer)

[Alexholl2015]

Hi All,

Putting in some good TLC on the 2007 LC w/ 3" OME lift. It's 256k miles strong and in great working condition. Purchased back in Feb 2020 and I'd feel better knowing I installed the following. Just lining up my notes for each. My question is, given install, would you do the same in the following order?
I go back and forth on the steps 1-3. Look forward to hearing your suggestions and why. Thanks again.

1) Diff Drop Cross Member
2) Front Sway Links
3) Front axles
4) Inner and Outer Tie Rods
SPC adjustable Upper Control Arms

 

[C6H12O6]

Short answer:
1a) CV axles
1b) SPC UCAs
1c) Tie rod ends
2a) Diff Drop
2b) Front (extended) sway bar links

Long answer:
I just did half of your list a couple weeks ago. I was only planning on new CV axles, but I needed to get the truck back on the road and one of my upper ball joints was toast, so I ponied up for the SPC upper control arms, as they were the only thing I could get that day in town. If you're going to be replacing everything on the list just because, a lot of these will happen at the same time. You'll have the easiest time with the axles by just removing the knuckles. Pop the upper ball joint, pop the outer tie rod end off the steering arm on the knuckle, and pop the lower ball joint. If you keep the nuts on the upper ball joint and the tie rod end after the joint separates, you can swing away with a BFH at the lower ball joint and the knuckle won't fall off when it finally gives way. Read up here on 'MUD. There are some other things that come off en-route (wheel/tire, ABS speed sensor—careful $$$, calipers, etc.).

Once you have all that stuff freed from the knuckle, just remove and carefully set the knuckle aside. You'll have unfettered access to the diff oil seals (which you should also order with the axles), and an easy shot to slide the new OEM (only) CV axles in. At this point, you're only going to be two nuts/bolts away from removing the upper control arms, so that's a no-brainer to do at the same time. The SPC control arms went in great and the alignment after was the best I've ever had on this truck. I didn't do tie rod ends, as I am probably heading toward a new steering rack in the next year or so, but I'm going to try bushings and some stop-leak first. You're half-way there for the tie rod end swap with this job too, so ideal time to knock that on the list.

The other stuff on the list isn't freed up during the axle job and won't have as much upside to the way it drives, so do those the next weekend. @TRAIL TAILOR is out of stock (again ) of the front extended sway bar links, so unless you already have a set, wait and get those. The diff drop can probably wait until you do that job. Or not. You'll already have the skid plates off.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The other stuff on the list isn't freed up during the axle job and won't have as much upside to the way it drives, so do those the next weekend. @TRAIL TAILOR is out of stock (again ) of the front extended sway bar links, so unless you already have a set, wait and get those. The diff drop can probably wait until you do that job. Or not. You'll already have the skid plates off.

I think I have 2 sets remaining I'll verify in the morning and PM you if I do. I know I have one set of scratched up ones.

We are sending 100 pair to powder at the end of next week for July 4th.

Diff drops we are flush 75 just came in from powder today.

J

 

[C6H12O6]

I think I have 2 sets remaining I'll verify in the morning and PM you if I do. I know I have one set of scratched up ones.

We are sending 100 pair to powder at the end of next week for July 4th.

Diff drops we are flush 75 just came in from powder today.

J

Sweet. I'll PM you.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

While you’re at it and working on that area, might as well check the steering rack bushings.

 

[Alexholl2015]

Short answer:
1a) CV axles
1b) SPC UCAs
1c) Tie rod ends
2a) Diff Drop
2b) Front (extended) sway bar links

Long answer:
I just did half of your list a couple weeks ago. I was only planning on new CV axles, but I needed to get the truck back on the road and one of my upper ball joints was toast, so I ponied up for the SPC upper control arms, as they were the only thing I could get that day in town. If you're going to be replacing everything on the list just because, a lot of these will happen at the same time. You'll have the easiest time with the axles by just removing the knuckles. Pop the upper ball joint, pop the outer tie rod end off the steering arm on the knuckle, and pop the lower ball joint. If you keep the nuts on the upper ball joint and the tie rod end after the joint separates, you can swing away with a BFH at the lower ball joint and the knuckle won't fall off when it finally gives way. Read up here on 'MUD. There are some other things that come off en-route (wheel/tire, ABS speed sensor—careful $$$, calipers, etc.).

Once you have all that stuff freed from the knuckle, just remove and carefully set the knuckle aside. You'll have unfettered access to the diff oil seals (which you should also order with the axles), and an easy shot to slide the new OEM (only) CV axles in. At this point, you're only going to be two nuts/bolts away from removing the upper control arms, so that's a no-brainer to do at the same time. The SPC control arms went in great and the alignment after was the best I've ever had on this truck. I didn't do tie rod ends, as I am probably heading toward a new steering rack in the next year or so, but I'm going to try bushings and some stop-leak first. You're half-way there for the tie rod end swap with this job too, so ideal time to knock that on the list.

The other stuff on the list isn't freed up during the axle job and won't have as much upside to the way it drives, so do those the next weekend. @TRAIL TAILOR is out of stock (again ) of the front extended sway bar links, so unless you already have a set, wait and get those. The diff drop can probably wait until you do that job. Or not. You'll already have the skid plates off.

Morning. Really appreciate the feedback. Funny you should mention Trail Tailor. That was my first post to see what everyone recommended. After someone commented, realized what a hot commodity the extended front sway bar links are, and purchased the last set in inventory at the time.

After seeing your remarks, couldn't agree more w/ the sequence CV Axles, UCAs and Inner/Outer Tie Rod ends. Next week, diff drop and SWB extensions. Pretty sure you saw this CV axle change out (). Seems to follow your instructions. Major addition to remove the calipers / abs sensor. Video is cringe worthy in that respect.

Outside of the main items, did you need to purchase any other accessories besides diff seals? Do you recall the part #'s?

Amazon product ASIN B00GFI2FJU

• This item:Genuine Toyota 90311-47027 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal $16.25
• Genuine Toyota 90311-47013 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal $17.39

Thanks again!

 

[C6H12O6]

Sorry for the delay in these. Hope this is still helpful. Here are the parts I replaced (prices were from McGeorge Toyota Online Parts):

43430-60040 Axle Assembly x2 $352.62 ea.
43422-60070 Washer Gasket x2 $1.68 ea.
43421-60060 Flange x2 $51.58 ea.
90311-47013 Oil Seal LEFT $12.76
90311-47027 Oil Seal RIGHT $11.73
42323-60030 Cone Washers x12 $1.31 ea.
90201-10075 Plate Washer x12 $1.13 ea.
90170-10039 Hex Nut x12 $0.98 ea.

The cone washers, plate washers, and hex nuts are routinely re-used by people, but my drive flanges and axle splines were so bad and things had been banging around in there so much, it seemed like pretty cheap insurance. You'll also need the snap ring assortment CV axles. You can source them from Toyota individually if you know the size you need after install, or you can order a baggie from @CruiserOutfitters and get one of each size. You might end up needing two of the same size, but I never seem to. YMMV. Might be worth to baggies to save the headache.

Again, I can't stress how much better this truck drives with the above repair. Anybody else reading this, don't delay. New OEM axles and assorted parts, properly pre-loaded wheel bearings, and a good alignment make an incredible difference.

 

[Alexholl2015]

Sorry for the delay in these. Hope this is still helpful. Here are the parts I replaced (prices were from McGeorge Toyota Online Parts):

43430-60040 Axle Assembly x2 $352.62 ea.
43422-60070 Washer Gasket x2 $1.68 ea.
43421-60060 Flange x2 $51.58 ea.
90311-47013 Oil Seal LEFT $12.76
90311-47027 Oil Seal RIGHT $11.73
42323-60030 Cone Washers x12 $1.31 ea.
90201-10075 Plate Washer x12 $1.13 ea.
90170-10039 Hex Nut x12 $0.98 ea.

The cone washers, plate washers, and hex nuts are routinely re-used by people, but my drive flanges and axle splines were so bad and things had been banging around in there so much, it seemed like pretty cheap insurance. You'll also need the snap ring assortment CV axles. You can source them from Toyota individually if you know the size you need after install, or you can order a baggie from @CruiserOutfitters and get one of each size. You might end up needing two of the same size, but I never seem to. YMMV. Might be worth to baggies to save the headache.

Again, I can't stress how much better this truck drives with the above repair. Anybody else reading this, don't delay. New OEM axles and assorted parts, properly pre-loaded wheel bearings, and a good alignment make an incredible difference.

Thanks again. Still needing to order a few parts so this is perfect. Really appreciate the time and help.

 

[C6H12O6]

FYI, my truck is an '07, so double check part numbers if you have an earlier year.

 

[Alexholl2015]

FYI, my truck is an '07, so double check part numbers if you have an earlier year.

Same here. 2007 w/ 256k miles.

 

[Alexholl2015]

Same here. 2007 w/ 256k miles.

Quick question. Did you use an assortment of guides to finding the torque setting for each bolt or LC user manual?

 

[C6H12O6]

I've got the Factory Service Manuals, so I used whatever torque settings Toyota recommends there.