M116 A3 Build (1 Viewer)

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Just scored on this M116 A3 1ton trailer for $400. Cant wait to start working on getting this ready for Rubithon 2018! If anyone has any suggestions or ideas for this project please chime in!
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Great find...lose that axle and boat anchor surge brake and get a new brake axle, some LC matching wheels and rubber.
 
Does that say "No CARC 11/07", "WH CARC..." or what? Probably good to know.

And anything interesting chalked on the other side?

Nice find. Big :moon: trailer on the Rubithon? I assume you've done this before?:slap:
Sounds like fun, but something I'd prefer to watch, rather than have skin in the game. Guess I'm getting old, unless I win the Lotto and buy a 40 so I can do it the easy way...whoops, there ain't no easy way.:confused: :cheers:
 
Does that say "No CARC 11/07", "WH CARC..." or what? Probably good to know.

And anything interesting chalked on the other side?

Nice find. Big :moon: trailer on the Rubithon? I assume you've done this before?:slap:
Sounds like fun, but something I'd prefer to watch, rather than have skin in the game. Guess I'm getting old, unless I win the Lotto and buy a 40 so I can do it the easy way...whoops, there ain't no easy way.:confused: :cheers:
Hahah, this year was my 1st time on the con. There is no easy way is right. I plan on narrowing down the trailer so that it's no wider than my 80 with flares.
 
Hahah, this year was my 1st time on the con. There is no easy way is right. I plan on narrowing down the trailer so that it's no wider than my 80 with flares.

That sounds like a plan, because everything else depends on the chassis and if too wide, well, you have a very specific intention and know it, so you'll do OK. My other suggestions at this point is what about drawbar length?

And keep the corners slim/angled in, as that's gonna help in the tight spots. Keep that in mind in the vertical dimension, too, as the tapered form factor is your friend here, as a big box form factor is gonna hang-up, rather than slither over. And to aid the slithering some sort of rub rail as a last bit of armor around the front corners and along past the axle/fenders might be well advised and can be integrated in your process of narrowing the frame.

Oh, the independent rear parking brakes? They might very well be handy to have, so are worth the trouble to maintain with whatever axle/brake set-up goes underneath.
 
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So I'm building up a temporary quick and cheap rack for my Hitents Rincon RTT. Spent about 33$ today on some plywood from the Home Depot the rest of the materials I already had. Needed a place to base camp for my desert trip if the family backs out. I do have my 24ft Keystone passport Ultralight 238ML trailer but I cant justify taking it out there if I'm rolling solo.
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Looks nice and effective. I also have an M116a3 and am trying to decide what to do with it. It doesn't have a solid floor like yours. I just put civilian 8 lug rims on it off an F-250. Please keep us up to date on your modifications.
 
I am interested as to where you take this project. This series and the M1101/1102 military trailers are super beefy and should handle anything you throw at it. If you could cut about 20 or more inches, squeeze the frame and change the axle/hubs to match the cruiser that can be done in an afternoon, right? :)

Larry in El Paso
 
What is your feeling on how it towed with the trailer having a different track width than your cruiser? Any close calls or hang ups with the trailer catching on things the cruiser cleared?

Larry in El Paso
 
What is your feeling on how it towed with the trailer having a different track width than your cruiser? Any close calls or hang ups with the trailer catching on things the cruiser cleared?

Larry in El Paso
Not for this trip, pretty much wide open roads. Was able to tow at 70mph comfortably. Although I do appreciate having the pintle hitch as it helps keeps the trailer from rolling completely over in comparison to the maxi coupler.
 
Reading through all the suggestions I got confused. Buy a military trailer and get rid of the body, surge brakes and axle. So, you have an frame to start with. The frames aren't all that over built to begin with. You could build a stronger frame the size you need and design it the way you want far cheaper than what people want for the military's version. OP already has his, so I'd keep it and work with what he has. I've had a half dozen of the M101 type 3/4 ton trailers and the folding tongue is a weak point for off roading, they can crack at the hinge. I reworked one of mine for off road camping use, but I like the M101 body and just redone the brakes to electric with a new tongue that eliminated the weak hinges. If I were starting from scratch I don't think I'd buy a military trailer for camping proposes.

Those surge brakes do work well if you rebuild them with a new shock to keep it from banging, the shock inside the surge helps soften that and gives it a smoother stop and start. Sizing your pintle and lunette makes a world of difference, too.

The military trailers were a good trailer to buy and use ten years ago, but now everybody wants $1000 on up for them making an expensive platform to start with. I'd buy them at auction for $150 TO 250, those days are gone.

EDIT....Forgot to mention the Hummer tires, they are extremely heavy with a run flat system. You can buy some 8 lug Chevy truck wheels from the bone yard to replace those, bolt right up. Also, that A3 axle is really cool with the bump up in it. I cut down the axle ends to make mine the same width as my 55, a lot of work, but turned out nice.
 
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