LX470 stuck after hitting pot hole - help please (1 Viewer)

[jumptrader]

Hi All!

2003 LX470 with about 150,000 miles.

Yesterday was driving in a back alley with large pot holes and my front right wheel hit a pot hole.

• Moments later, a horrible screeching sound that pitched higher as i revved the engine and loss of power to all wheels.
• Turned off the engine, turned back on.
• Truck travels a few yards forward and then screeching sound begins again.
• Turned off the engine, turned back on.
• Moved the transfer case into neutral, engine revs normally.
• Moved the transfer case into low, same screeching sound as above. Moved back to high.

While inspecting the truck we saw:

• Slightly revving the engine we see that the front right CV axle spins, but does not turn the wheel.

Photo below.

Truck got towed to the local dealership since I do not know of any local mechanics in the SF Bay area.

• A friend with me believes the axle popped out of the bearing due to bearing failure.

Any ideas of what this could be before I meet with the dealership on Monday? They want to charge $220 / hour to diagnose the problem.. not having a great feeling about this!

Thank you!

 

[dinnertime]

Axle is definitely popped out, probably not splines with the drive flange. Worse case the drive flange is stripped.

Pull the center cap off that wheel, then the dust cap off the hub and you should be able to see the axle stub and drive flange.


Have you tried engaging your center diff lock and seeing if it will move?

 

[2001LC]

Hub flange Snap ring popped off. Very common if wheel bearings not properly serviced

 

[jumptrader]

Axle is definitely popped out, probably not splines with the drive flange. Worse case the drive flange is stripped.

Pull the center cap off that wheel, then the dust cap off the hub and you should be able to see the axle stub and drive flange.


Have you tried engaging your center diff lock and seeing if it will move?

I wanted to try that but was afraid of screwing something else up.
What are risks here if I try that?

 

[jumptrader]

Hub flange Snap ring pop off. Very common if wheel bearing not properly serviced

Funny you say that... I skipped the 30K mile wheel bearing service (about 15K miles past due) and was planning to do it myself in a few weekends.

Will look up how to fix this. Thank you sir!

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

Funny you say that... I skipped the 30K mile wheel bearing service (about 15K miles past due) and was planning to do it myself in a few weekends.

Will look up how to fix this. Thank you sir!

15K mile late doesn't do this. It happens more often form mechanic during wheel bearings service, using old snap ring and not setting/checking the gap. Over time the axle moves in and out beyond design limits, due to wide gap. This cause pounding on the snap ring, groove it fits in on the axle and hub flange. Add to that loose wheel bearings chattering and we see hub flange or axle teeth shear off also. In your case the picture clearly shows your axle of front drive shaft (AKA CV) has pull away from steering knuckle. This happens when snap ring is off.

Have shop pull off the grease cap under hub cap. I'll bet the snap ring is out of its groove. 5 minute job!

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Pay tow truck driver and pop off dust cap. Push axle back out into drive flange. You can use a small bolt threaded into hole in center to help pull it all the way out. Use pliers and slightly reshape snap ring to fit tight again. Put snap ring back into groove and replace dust cap.

No need to pay dealership to diagnose this issue. Look closely at your drive flange and outer CV splines for wear when you perform your bearing service. Locking the center diff and proceeding with caution will allow you to move truck around before repair is made if necessary.

 

[2001LC]

I would go ahead and put new snap ring on now, if you plan on driving far. Old snap not only get expanded with each removal. It's likely the edges are rounded and damaged.

New snap ring has sharp edges and will fit around axle in groove vert tight.
These 2.6mm are two sizes up from factory installed 2.2mm. I use the 2.4mm most often.

The bolt size is 8X1.25MM

 

[jumptrader]

15K mile late doesn't do this. It happens more often form mechanic during wheel bearings service, using old snap ring and not setting/checking the gap. Over time the axle moves in and out beyond design limits, due to wide gap. This cause pounding on the snap ring, groove it fits in on the axle and hub flange. Add to that loose wheel bearings chattering and we see hub flange or axle teeth shear off also. In your case the picture clearly shows your axle of front drive shaft (AKA CV) has pull away from steering knuckle. This happens when snap ring is off.

Have shop pull off the grease cap under hub cap. I'll bet the snap ring is out of its groove. 5 minute job!

Thank you for the detailed explanation here!

Question:

If I had in an attempt to see what the issue was let the screeching go on for about 30 seconds.. would that have caused more damage to the axle teeth to shear and therefore risk needing to also replace the axle?

 

[uHu]

Open up and have a look. Takes minutes. Simples.

 

[2001LC]

Possible, but I doubt it. It likely screeching was as the axle pulled into the spindle. Axle would then rub, screeching, on inside of spindle. Not a big deal.

It is possible you do have damaged hub flange(s) and or axle(s) teeth. This again is from wheel bearings not being properly serviced. This doesn't just mean not servicing ever 30K miles. But more so from shops not doing the wheel bearing service properly. Most just don't!

Most shop don't even clean the wheel bearing and hub during servicing. They pull bearing and pack with new grease, then slap back together as fast as they can. Popping on old snap ring, never even checking gap. There are a number of videos around showing just that. People say it's not rocket science. True! But if job not done right, it's one of the few things to leave us on the side of the road IMHO.

I've a 350K 00LX lexus Dealer maintained all it life. It's the thickest service history I've seen and I don't have first 90K mile of history, as it was in CN. Like most, had wheel bearing serviced, but never had the axle bushing and needle bearing lubed. Which PM schedule calls for ever 30K also. It had one wheel bearing fail and replaced by Lexus. I too replace (the other) wheel bearing and a needle bearing and bushing. It was first needle bearing I'd seen burned up. Bottom line, if Wheel bearings serviced by the book. I don't think our 100 series incredibly tough wheel bearings would ever fail, snap ring would never come off, nor would hub flange or axle teeth shear off.

 

[nissanh]

2001 LC, can you please post the part numbets for 2.2 and 2.4 mm snap rings? Thanks

 

[2001LC]

You'll likely never need the 2.2mm (factory) unless you R&R the brass axle bushing in back of steering knuckle.

Typically I just email a descriptive list to my Toyota Parts guy and let him worry about PN #
I do happen what I "think" are the correct ones:
2.20mm marked with E: 90220-31008
2.40mm marked with D: 90220-31007

You've seen me post www.partsouq.com before. Go there and punch in your VIN # and you'll find some of the most accurate parts diagram & PN # around.

I do show picture, often, many with PN #. But I avoid given PN # for a few reason. You'll know one of them, if you try and find your vehicle in partsouq without a VIN #. Try it! There're many more models of LC & LX then I had any idea of.

 

[nissanh]

Thanks for the reply. I went to parts ouq and with vin, it showed last digits as 007 for 2.4 mm. I reused the old C clips when I did the cv's and threads like these remind me to replace it with new!. Already added c clips to my shopping list. Might also install new grease caps too. Thanks again!

 

[36brua]

Contact Cruiser Outfitters they sell all sizes

Thanks for the reply. I went to parts ouq and with vin, it showed last digits as 007 for 2.4 mm. I reused the old C clips when I did the cv's and threads like these remind me to replace it with new!. Already added c clips to my shopping list. Might also install new grease caps too. Thanks again!

 

[Flipped Bezel]

2001 LC, can you please post the part numbets for 2.2 and 2.4 mm snap rings? Thanks

I believe @cruiseroutfit sells a kit with all size snap ring sizes in it so you can have the proper fit on hand when it comes time to do your hub servicing.

Edit:^^^^ @36brua beat me to it. I posted before reading all replies.

 

[Fitterblue]

Hi All!

2003 LX470 with about 150,000 miles.

Yesterday was driving in a back alley with large pot holes and my front right wheel hit a pot hole.

• Moments later, a horrible screeching sound that pitched higher as i revved the engine and loss of power to all wheels.
• Turned off the engine, turned back on.
• Truck travels a few yards forward and then screeching sound begins again.
• Turned off the engine, turned back on.
• Moved the transfer case into neutral, engine revs normally.
• Moved the transfer case into low, same screeching sound as above. Moved back to high.

While inspecting the truck we saw:

• Slightly revving the engine we see that the front right CV axle spins, but does not turn the wheel.

Photo below.

View attachment 1935425





Truck got towed to the local dealership since I do not know of any local mechanics in the SF Bay area.

• A friend with me believes the axle popped out of the bearing due to bearing failure.

Any ideas of what this could be before I meet with the dealership on Monday? They want to charge $220 / hour to diagnose the problem.. not having a great feeling about this!

Thank you!



View attachment 1935427

Call Valley Hybrids in Stockton. They restore Landcruisers and are members of ih8mud. 209-475-8808. There are several YouTube videos to fix this if you're inclined to do it yourself: Some are on replacing bearing, the whole axel (which are cheap and easier than replacing CV boots. Just search YouTube with "100 series land cruiser bearing or axel". I had Aamco replace my shocks but I should have done that myself.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the reply. I went to parts ouq and with vin, it showed last digits as 007 for 2.4 mm. I reused the old C clips when I did the cv's and threads like these remind me to replace it with new!. Already added c clips to my shopping list. Might also install new grease caps too. Thanks again!

I always replace hub flange, cone washers and snap ring with new OEM front drive shaft (AKA CV). Very often I'll replace those when just doing a wheel bearing service.

Watch out for shipping cost from partsouq. You don't want to pay $25 just for a $2 snap ring. Me, I just buy these $2 items locally unless I'm stocking up. Then I buy maybe a dozen 2.4mm and one set of 2.6mm.

I did once use a 2.8mm. A local shop install and aftermarket front drive shaft and left out both seal in the back of the steering knuckle. The grim that got in really wore down the brass bushing. I was using the Slee grease tool and when I peaked in backside to see when grease starting following out.
I saw this: No seals and brass bushing packed with road grim. This shop must stay busy as this one would have surely had to come back. I bet they'd even sell the guy another front drive shaft and a steering knuckle.

I too have a bag of snap rings from @cruiseroutfit. Kurt has good stuff that you can always count on. I'll likely have the smaller size that came in the bag forever. I just don't see how I'd need them. I suppose if I replaced the FDS, Steering knuckle, brass axle bushing, axle needle bearing, wheel bearings & races, wheel hub and hub flange I may need something under 2.20mm until all settled. But to date it has not happen. But then I've never replaced steering knuckle. I have done all the others, in fact on one I just recently did, I use my first 2.20mm where I changes the axle brass bushing & needle bearing (a first for me). But even that one left me with a wide gap of 0.18mm, which I don't like. Just not wide enough to go up one size. I do plan on popping off that grease gap soon and re gaping. I'm betting I'll go to a 2.4mm when I do. You can not have the gap to tight, in my book (FSM).

@nissanh If you've been driving for a few miles, so the grease will be settled. This makes it very easy to check the gap and get a true reading. The way I do it is: With weight of vehicle on the tire. I take a pair of large channel locks and work off the grease cap. I then thread a 8x1.25 bolt in the axle and pull as I measure gap. If gap is .20mm or greater I go up in size according to gap plus size of snap ring that in there.

I've seen guys on the forum say they used a 2.00 or even a 1.80mm snap ring. I can assure there gap is to wide. What happens is grease has not settled in back of knuckle between axle and brass bushing. They get a false gap. They grab the snap ring from the bag that fits tight and call it a day. Wrong!

Guys bring there rigs to help then with and some have had wheel bearing done locally. Whenever I pull bearings apart I look very closely at how the job was done. I've yet to find it done right. The best I saw was from a well known mechanic in my area. But he failed on the final step. The snap ring. The gap was .35mm and it had a loose fitting original factory snap ring in it.

If you combine loose wheel bearings, which will cause bearing chatter. With a wide gap. It creates a saw as axle moves in and out past design limits. Just sawing away at teeth of hub flange and axle. The groove of axle snap ring fits in, takes a beating. This leads to rounding of the groove, that should have nice sharp edges. Add to that not replace snap ring which they are almost always expand and loose on axle, and they pop off.

There is another thread going on now. His snap didn't pop off. He has worst case. Looks like his axle teeth sheared off. Also looks like he created a lot of heat. He'll need the most expense part. The front drive shaft and much more.

 

[jumptrader]

@2001LC
@Flipped Bezel
thank you again for walking me through this...

the dealership did the diagnostic before i could cancel the request.. here's what they found and are quoting me:

picture 1: grease cap has gunk in it (don't know how normal this is)

picture 2:
stripped axle (which I guess means the whole CV needs to be replaced?)

The quote:

Front axle hub (incl. bearing) - $595
Front drive axle assy - $703
Front right knuckle assy - $1005
Alignment - $149
Diagnostic - $215
Labor - 6 hours * 215 = $1,290
Total: $3,957

I can't afford this at the moment so will need to get quotes at other shops nearby.
@Fitterblue will call the Stockton guys, thanks for the rec.

Will keep the thread posted! This is very fun learning about these trucks... and also part frustrating hearing how much these dealers charge!