Lug Nut Correctness (1 Viewer)

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Worm can warning:
Lubrication, or not, on wheel studs?

I was changing a tire on a disc brake set-up the other day, and I couldn't rotate the lug nut finger-tight, could barely move it with the wrench unfolded (no angle/elbow to scrape on the ground). It is getting dark outside. No apparent rust (it gets washed only with a sponge, and this is the desert Southwest protected by a hubcap), just buggered up grey matter mixed with shavings from the bevel on the nut as it meets the steel wheel. Okay, so I put the spare on. Drove for a couple of days. Got the professionally repaired tire and the OEM wheel today, removed the spare, and when I did, I realized that the lug nuts were much looser than I thought they would be after the approximate torque that I thought they were placed on with. Humm...

Now with a clean wire brush for the studs, still resistant and sticky. Then a drop of thin oil goes on, and the nuts begin to behave normally. I now have my USA-manufactured beam-style torque wrench with me. I'm serious, no junky OE 'emergency' tool. (Btw, this isn't exactly a Toyota or a Cruiser.) I brought the nuts to about 90 ft lbs, accounting for the additional lubrication.

So, my thought is that the spare installation the other day was compromised by sharing fastener pre-load torque with friction from dirty threads, probably from countless professionals working with little regard for cleanliness, a professionally impaired tactile sense, and an impact driver.

Is this good practice, or should I strip off the oil with brake-clean, and hope that the studs don't rust so I can keep to the word of the OEM manufacturer literature?
 
I wouldn't worry about this either. I've done it both ways with my Cruisers. For a good number of years I always used grey Anti Seize on the lug threads. Then a 'tire guy' suggested they be put on dry.

So now they go on dry, but honestly I've not had any issues either way...but my suggestion is 'dry'.
 
I wouldn't worry about this either. I've done it both ways with my Cruisers. For a good number of years I always used grey Anti Seize on the lug threads. Then a 'tire guy' suggested they be put on dry.

So now they go on dry, but honestly I've not had any issues either way...but my suggestion is 'dry'.

I think you should go back to anti seize, if for no other reason to prevent galling. I always put a light coat on the studs. It only takes one jerk at a tire shop to ruin a stud with an air wrench. Those lugs take a lot of abuse, heat and environmental.
 
Gosh that was a lot a words about lug nuts! :hillbilly:
I could see maybe anti seize but probably not oil - possible clean them good and spray with rust converter/remover?
 
I use a light layer of anti seize, and torque them correctly.


Who am I kidding, I just put them on and wrench them tight.
 
I think you should go back to anti seize, if for no other reason to prevent galling. I always put a light coat on the studs. It only takes one jerk at a tire shop to ruin a stud with an air wrench. Those lugs take a lot of abuse, heat and environmental.

Not bad advise at all, like I said I went for years using anti seize with no issues. I think it also depends on what environment you live in.

When I used anti seize I lived by the Oregon border...very wet. I now live at the base of the Eastern Sierra, very dry and low humidity. Where you live should be taken in to consideration.
 
The only time I used lubricant on the lugs is when I cleaned them. Other times I just put them on dry. The trick is, put the lugs slow and snug them down then tighten. Do not just get them started and then zing them on with an impact wrench.
 
If you just wanted to prevent corrosion, I think that you would use blue Loctite to fill the gaps and keep the corrosive elements out?

I see anti-sieze as being partly oil or grease, no? But, from experience, I've dropped more than one of the six non-oem closed-end lug nuts in the soil after the anti-sieze was applied, no fun without solvent and compressed air, etc.

How much use and wear and tear does it take to remove the black oxide or zinc finish from the wheel stud?

My basic conflict is, knowing that engine head bolts require lubrication to achieve proper torque, why would I not lubricate wheel studs with some kind of oily petrol product, knowing that, it is not too rare for them to break, and, they are exposed to a wetter, dirtier, and saltier environment than those in the motor?
 
I don't know this for a fact...but my guess is that the torque specs that we see for lug nuts is 'dry'. Not sure but I've never read otherwise.

And while I do use a torque wrench on my own lug nuts, I bet most do not. Put them on tight...wet or dry and run them.
 
As someone who has broken studs to get the wheel off, I say a little bit of never-seize or lubricant on the lug to prevent rust and galling.
Although I live in the Northeast, and deal with a lot of rust. YMMV

If you care to do the research there is actually torque correction formulas out there for different kinds of lubricants.

Usually metal wear on the bevel of the lugnut/rim indicates loose lug nuts.
 
The 40 nuts are a pretty durable design, its the chrome covered ones that are on my 62 that seem to get messed up. Not to mention some of the sports cars that have lug nuts that feel like they are made from recycled beer cans! On my non modern vehicles, I am the only one that turns the lug nuts. I bring the wheels to the tire shop. I have noticed that a very thin layer of anti seize lasts for a long time and keeps the threads very smooth. I think the calibration of most torque wrenches is off by more than what the anti seize changes in torque specs.
 

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