Lubricating clutch fork (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

For a while my clutch pedal has been increasingly difficult to depress. I adjusted it yesterday (was just BARELY out of spec per the FSM) and am planning on lubricating the contact points on the fork today, but looking in the FSM it appears the only good way to lubricate it is by removing it completely. It also appears (from looking in the FSM) that you need to pull the tranny entirely to do that. I'm waiting for the wind to stop gusting before I go out and pull the inspection cover so I haven't even looked inside yet, but before I go out there are their any pointers that can be offered for lubricating the clutch fork, and anything else I should look at that could potentially be causing increased pedal resistance?

Seems to be a mess of minor things popping up as the weather's cooling off this year. Luckily I've been able to tackle them one by one.

 

[OSS]

This thread has a few tips and a final solution

1983 Fj60 Clutch No Movement

Here is my issue. Clutch has no pressure and can be pushed all the way to the floor. You can shift 1st-4th and the car won't move or make any grinding noises. The car has to be pushed to move and ebrake has to be engaged or it will roll away when parked. I'm guessing something is broken or a...

forum.ih8mud.com

Grease on the hub sleeve is your friend. Everything else is just a pivot and wouldn’t affect pedal pressure.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Did you not grease during install?

As @OSS shows, should have grease on the hub/spline during install. With the inspection cover off you should be able to see and be able to "work" some lube into the area if not done during installation. Not the ideal procedure, but anything right now is better than none.

 

[cps432]

If you’re able to find it, red n tacky grease was being put into an aerosol can. I haven’t seen it since the ports and harbors got backed up two years ago. That stuff would defiantly stay where you put it and you’d be able to force it in there. Otherwise, I’d just do my best to pack some in there as best you can. I’m interested to hear your conclusions when you get it done. I didn’t use much grease on my install. Just a thin film. Maybe I should have used more. The pic @OSS posted shows quite a bit more grease than I used.

 

[Spook50]

Did you not grease during install?

As @OSS shows, should have grease on the hub/spline during install. With the inspection cover off you should be able to see and be able to "work" some lube into the area if not done during installation. Not the ideal procedure, but anything right now is better than none.

Install was done at @torfab, so I assume they did, and it's worked smooth as silk until just the last couple weeks (nearly two years) so I'm assuming any lubrication is just due to be done again.

 

[OSS]

What I learned from a transmission shop is the thingy that needs grease (in this case maybe the hub) can benefit from a big glob left next to the friction surface. The glob stays in place and acts as a feeder reservoir but the actual lubricant weeps into the tight spots that need it.
The thick stuff of grease is just a carrier. The actual lubricant that reduces friction is working on a molecular thin layer (and a film layer). It slowly migrates away from the glob into the tight spaces.

Those big globs or red Mobil 1 Synthetic grease I applied like that because that’s exactly how the transmission shop did it 30 years ago.

 

[Spook50]

Indeed the grease that was there had all migrated away, but unfortunately the input shaft has no grease at all and was starting to show some scoring from the throwout bearing. Not horrible but I'm glad I caught it before it could get any worse. I didn't notice anything in the FSM about greasing the input shaft for the throwout bearing, so I figure the installer followed the FSM.

With my GF sitting in the cab and depressing the clutch pedal I gave everything a good dose of Schaeffer's 274 that I always keep on hand. Checked it myself afterwords and it's smooth as silk again.

One thing fixed