LSPV idea (for those of us with seized valves)

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Joined
Jul 11, 2008
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London, UK & Lusaka, Zambia
No way was mine moving anyplace. Nuts come off OK, the the vavle and the plate are fused as one, rust welded together.

Took the rod off at the valve end, and boot off, and had the :princess: start then engine and apply the brake; I could see the range of travel of the nipple in there - only about 3mm (1mm out under no pressure, ~4mm under pressure)

Made up a little brass button, OD a snug fit inside the circluar form of the guide that fits around the nipple (it has a slot to allow the rod to pass up and down it). I went for 3mm as I'm planning on reducing my rear lift - my supposed 2" springs are more like 3.5". Longer would actually work better in terms of stability within the channel. Time will tell how it goes, will sort the suspension before I do the lockup test, but I really can't see why it won't work.

Thoughts welcome.
Rgds - JB
 
I asked a question a while ago but nobody answered. Maybe you can help me. I was wondering if the LSPV was froze up on my truck and I tried to move the plunger by pushing it up with a screwdriver but I could not see it move. Were you able to see yours move by having your old lady push on the brakes with the bar removed from the bottom of the plunger? Is this movement the 3mm you decribed? So when the brakes are pushed, the plunger should move down (towards the ground) ?
 
Were you able to see yours move by having your old lady push on the brakes with the bar removed from the bottom of the plunger? Is this movement the 3mm you decribed? So when the brakes are pushed, the plunger should move down (towards the ground) ?

Yes, exaclty that.
 

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