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Here is a little better pic.
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OK, so the LS2 vs LS3 thing just got me... I know crap about Chevy motors, so i Googled it... All the Corvette guys love the LS2, and extol it's virtues, but say that the LS3 is a genuine generational step up and (I quote) is THE hot motor of the future.
Oh, and it's a 6.2 liter. Damn. You are going to love this cruiser, I imagine. Your first post was quite...Casual about the swap, so how about some details?
-Want to hear about what works, what needs work
- any gauge switch outs or using OEM gauges?
-Ballpark cost for the conversion, including the LS3
-What was done to mate to the transfer case, or was that swapped.
-will you be running full or P/T 4WD?
Sorry for inundating you with ?s, but this is a cool project.
That sounds like an awesome cruiser you let go of. I will get back to the forum on fuel performance.
rockrod said:Your stalling issue sounds like the torque converter is not unlocking.
Do you know if the installer added a circuit that tells the PCM to unlock the convertor when you hit the brakes?
This is from the LT1Swap website:
Brake Switch Signal - For automatics with lock up converter, the PCM needs signal when brake pedal is pressed. However, the signal needed is opposite how you're brake lights work. The PCM wants 12v+ constant on this wire when brake IS NOT pressed, and OPEN Circuit when the brake IS pressed. If you vehicle was equipped with a lockup trans to begin with, you probably already have the proper normally closed switch mounted by your brake light switch. If you do not, you can use a relay to perform the same thing. On most relays, there are 5 terminals, 2 of them turn the relay ON when provided ground/power. There are then a normally open leg and a normally closed leg on the relay and a supply. By feeding 12v+ on the supply leg, and hooking the Brake Switch Signal wire to the normally closed leg, you will now have the correct signal for the PCM. When the brake is pressed, 12v+ flows to brake lights, tap into this wire, and run it to the relay to turn the relay on. This will cause the normally closed leg to become open, thus turning OFF the 12v+ signal to the PCM. When you release the brake pedal, the relay will turn OFF, and then feed 12v+ to the PCM.
The tach issue can be fixed by getting a dakota digital convertor box and using it to modify the tach output from the PCM. The other option is to have your programmer use the software to output a signal that matches the 6 cylinder tach input.
Also, in regards to the second gear start - while the button no longer works, the transmission retains the ability for second gear start simply by shifting into 2nd gear.
jwdodd1 said:Got the Dakota Digital part installed and the Tach works, however the Speedometer isn't coming to life. Any advice?
Also, in regards to the second gear start - while the button no longer works, the transmission retains the ability for second gear start simply by shifting into 2nd gear.
This is a awesome setup, where in NOVA are you located? I would like to check it out in person if its not a problem .
The transmission he has allows that?
I have never seen any automatic transmission allow you to start off in second gear just because you have the selector lever in 2nd.(except for the button allowing it on LCs) The trans will start in 1st and only allow the vehicle to go as high as 2nd gear if you have the selector on 2nd.
Dakota got us all squared away. Everything appears to be working now.
rockrod said:including the speedo?
It uses a speed sensor on the t-case so power and ground need to be provided to the sensor, and the output signal goes to the speedo. The wires are buried in the toyota harness that operates the original toyota transmission and the CDL.
rockrod said:including the speedo?
It uses a speed sensor on the t-case so power and ground need to be provided to the sensor, and the output signal goes to the speedo. The wires are buried in the toyota harness that operates the original toyota transmission and the CDL.
slow91fj90 said:This is a awesome setup, where in NOVA are you located? I would like to check it out in person if its not a problem .
HGiles said:JWDODD1,
That is one impressive LC you got! Damn impressive! BTW, I am in Charlottesville, VA.
Yep, speedo is working fine. Picked her up today and drove home fine, but when I shut her off, I heard a gurgling noise. When I opened the hood, it sounded as though the coolant was boiling. I think it may have been on the verge of overheating. Any ideas on what to check to verify?