I have ordered and received a LR Brake Caliper to replace my current one (seized pin). I am NOT a mechanic by any stretch but prefer to wrench my own vehicle when I can (keep that in mind for the following query)...When I remove the old caliper how do I minimize brake fluid loss? Clip the brake hose or cap the end of the hose which is removed from the caliper? Yes, I have pads, shim kits, etc... to do all the rears and will bleed the brakes afterwards. Anything else I shall consider is greatly appreciated...and yes, I did search the old threads in the 100 Forum...Thanks all!
LR Brake Caliper Replacement question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter trocpa
- Start date
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I would take this opportunity to bleed out the entire system and replace the fluid. It's supposed to be replaced every 2 years anyway.
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
Locate a length of wood to wedge between the brake pedal and the drivers seat frame to bold the pedal down an inch or so. This will seal the master cylinder and prevent fluid leakdown when the caliper line is disconnected. Easy.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
makes sense, key off or on?
APKhaos said:
i must confess i dont understand the logic - wouldnt holding down the pedal increase pressure in the brake lines and increase the amount of fluid coming out of the lines when caliper is disconnected?
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Yeah, I don't know about wedging a piece of wood, but I'll say I have done that when bleeding the brakes and needed to keep pressure on the pedal. Worked like a charm, but when I opened the bleed valve, there was just a steady stream of fluid. So, it would stand to reason if you pull the brake hose WITH pressure as suggested, you will have a full steady flow of fluid gushing out. You can either pinch off the brake line, if it's in good shape and won't crack, or you can just leave the pedal alone and key off, then swap out the brake hose, bleed the system and you're good to go. You shouldn't loose hardly any fluid with the hose off for a few mins. Then do a full fluid exchange as already suggested. Good luck!
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
There's a vent port in the MC from the fluid reservoir to the brake lines. When the pedal is slightly depressed that port is closed when the MC piston moves forward, but before any brake system pressure is generated. Its a small movement.
If the wood offends your sensibility use anything you like that will keep the pedal depressed around one inch.
We do a LOT of brake work on the race cars and everyone uses this technique. Its reliable and avoids potential damage to the flex lines due to clamping.
If the wood offends your sensibility use anything you like that will keep the pedal depressed around one inch.
We do a LOT of brake work on the race cars and everyone uses this technique. Its reliable and avoids potential damage to the flex lines due to clamping.
