Lower knuckle stud maintenance

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I keep reading that the knuckle stud torques need to be checked regularly. I can't find a wrench that will get onto the lower outer studs (the ones next to the disk brake backing plate) to check them. How are people checking/tightening those two studs without taking the hub apart enough to move the backing plate out of the way?
 

EWheeler

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I keep reading that the knuckle stud torques need to be checked regularly. I can't find a wrench that will get onto the lower outer studs (the ones next to the disk brake backing plate) to check them. How are people checking/tightening those two studs without taking the hub apart enough to move the backing plate out of the way?
You shouldn't need to worry about those lower nuts if they were properly torqued upon installation. The concern with loosening knuckle stud nuts is on the top where the load from the steering arms can work nuts loose over time. I would check the torque of the top nuts yearly or at every oil change for peace of mind.
 
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You shouldn't need to worry about those lower nuts if they were properly torqued upon installation. The concern with loosening knuckle stud nuts is on the top where the load from the steering arms can work nuts loose over time. I would check the torque of the top nuts yearly or at every oil change for peace of mind.
Thanks for that... will keep those top ones torqued then!
 

John McVicker

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^^^
However, a 1/2” breaker bar & 17m socket will do the job.
 
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Hmm... well, it's a 1980, so the nuts are 19mm and because the two lower ones next to the brake backing plate are recessed into the plate, a socket won't go on them. I was thinking folks were checking torques on all the studs, not just the top ones. It makes sense that the top ones are the ones that come loose and break since they have the cones and are constantly "worked" by the steering arm.
 

John McVicker

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I stand corrected, sorry.

My 40 is a ‘75 with drums all around & takes a 17m. My 60 with disk brakes also takes a 17. Was not aware yours would be 19m.👍
 

3_puppies

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Hmm... well, it's a 1980, so the nuts are 19mm and because the two lower ones next to the brake backing plate are recessed into the plate, a socket won't go on them.

I use a socket, chrome will be thinner than an impact, you may need to use a pry bar to make some clearance for the socket, if the backing plate has been deformed some.
you may need a little tappy tappy to get the socket on.
 
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I use a socket, chrome will be thinner than an impact, you may need to use a pry bar to make some clearance for the socket, if the backing plate has been deformed some.
you may need a little tappy tappy to get the socket on.
Interesting... my backing plate is straight (as in "the stock shape" and freshly powder coated), and even if I could force a chrome socket on it, the rim on the torque wrench would still not get in there. I tried a crows foot and a box wrench too... no joy. I'm not inclined to mess up my backing plate at this point, so I'll just have to trust I got them torqued properly during install and check them the next time I have it apart. I will continue to check the two lower studs that I can get to and if those ever come loose, I'll take the opportunity to install the replacement knuckle (the one I got from you:), which is nearly ready for new ARP studs) and re-tighten then.
 

3_puppies

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an extension may be needed also.
 

S.CarolinaFZJ80

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These lower nuts do get loose on 80 series Landcruisers. Witt's End sells "nut huggers" that bend over the nuts to keep them put. Not sure if they will work on a 40 series though.

Edit - They have them for the 60 series too

 
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