Low use 1994 Series 80

[BTLSHP]

We have what I will now term a low use Series 80. It goes less than a mile a day. My father is 89 and uses to go to and from his garden projects. We had though of giving up the car, but in reality it is a part of his identity. The car has 227k miles, until 4 years ago it was garage kept and used for a 140 mile trip to a weekend house - the last 4 miles of which could be tricky dirt roads.

I am looking for thoughts on maintenance, we have a detailer look it over 2x annually and he is helpful pointing out issues like thin clear coat or adverse cracking in the tires. I can check/change fluids and brakes.

It has been maintained by well regarded independents but I have cut back from 2x trips annually to sort of a when things go wrong interval. Oil changes are at 5k miles, the transmission has not been touched in 4 years but the fluid looks good. Brake and power steering fluid are every 3 years.

I have been taking it out randomly on trips of 30-40 miles. I think I will start doing this every other week.

Any other thoughts? The current "plan" is to pass the car to my daughter (who may not want it) so the desire is to keep in in good shape.

 

[gummycarbs]

* Follow the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual.
* Make sure the front axle has been serviced.
* Don't use Wix oil filters.

 

[bpenn1980]

1 mile a day scares me. Never hitting operating temp is not good for an engine.

 

[BTLSHP]

1 mile a day scares me. Never hitting operating temp is not good for an engine.

Yea, that is why I am hoping a longer trip every other week is helpful.
Birfs were done a long time ago - 150k miles. Front bearings are every 30k miles. We use Toyota filters for better or worse.

 

[ETCruiser]

I agree with the longer runs at least a couple of times a month, especially if it has such short trips more often. And if your daughter doesn't have much interest now, I'd skip that plan...It'll have a happier life in the future if it goes to someone that appreciates what it is and capable of. That said, if it's something that she wants, then definitely keep it in the family since it sounds like you are the maintenance keeper now (and care about it).

 

[DrDuc]

Sounds like a perfect opportunity to build it into your vision of the ultimate 80 series. Your could restore it to as new stock, period correct mods, restomod, you have a blank canvas awaiting your creative touch.

 

[BTLSHP]

Okay, so I going to stay with what we are doing. I was a bit concerned about long term effects of condensation in various fluids. I may also treat a couple of high risk areas like the inside bottom of the doors with Boeshield or Fluid Film

 

[thatcabledude]

I would just make sure he lets it “warm up” before he sets off on his 1mi trip.

 

[jpoole]

The items that come to my mind which I'd be most concerned about are:

• brake fluid - I'd move this to 2 years for an East Coast (humidity) rig. For a while now 2 years has been the longest that I let brake fluid go on any of my vehicles and it often feels like too long. I typically do flushes more frequently than 2 years based on cruddy looking fluid in the reservoir. Brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air/etc. and the moisture will pool and corrode/damage internal brake parts.
• coolant - you want to change this every few years or more frequently as well in my opinion. The corrosion inhibitors lose effectiveness over time and the water/oxygen in the system starts to eat, plus galvanic get's going, etc. To make this easy I just drain/refill the radiator every year (after an initial full flush when purchased). I run green 50/50 and the rad drain/fill takes about 1 gallon.
• I'm more comfortable with other fluids getting older as long as you run it up to temp periodically to cook the water off. It may take more than 30 minutes depending on drive speeds and outside temps. If you can't drive it that often/hard a drain/refill will be effective as the water will mostly collect at the low/drain point.

I've owned or resurrected vehicles that have seen similar or even less use than you describe and the moisture build up can be surprising. The first system to go is typically the brakes for the reason listed above. It can also be surprising how the oil clumps/solidifies in the valve cover/etc. but some of what I've seen there is likely down to crappy oil that was used in decades past.

 

[BTLSHP]

The items that come to my mind which I'd be most concerned about are:

• brake fluid - I'd move this to 2 years for an East Coast (humidity) rig. For a long time 2 years is the longest that I let brake fluid go on any of my vehicles and it often feels like too long. I typically do flushes more frequently than 2 years based on cruddy looking fluid in the reservoir. Brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air/etc. and the moisture will pool and corrode/damage internal brake parts.
• coolant - you want to change this every few years or more frequently as well in my opinion. The corrosion inhibitors lose effectiveness over time and the water/oxygen in the system starts to eat, plus galvanic get's going, etc. To make this easy I just drain/refill the radiator every year (after an initial full flush/etc.). I run green 50/50 and the rad drain/fill takes 1 gallon.
• I'm more comfortable with other fluids getting older as long as you run it up to temp periodically to cook the water off. It may take more than 30 minutes depending on drive speeds and outside temps. If you can't drive it that often/hard a drain/refill will be effective as the water will mostly collect at the low/drain point.

I've owned or resurrected vehicles that have seen similar or even less use than you describe and the moisture build up can be surprising. The first system to go is typically the brakes for the reason listed above. It can also be surprising how the oil clumps/solidifies in the valve cover/etc. but some of what I've seen there is likely down to crappy oil that was used in decades past.

Thanks, I have your point on brake fluid. I use 2 years on my cars. The land cruiser gets Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic. We are running Toyota coolant last change 3 years ago. I think I need to turn my attention to places where condensation occurs in the body panels. We had a shop address some rust that formed as part of the front end repairs. Otherwise there is normal surface rust on the underside.

 

[jpoole]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, but with an 80 you really want to stay on top of any leaks that are getting inside. The sunroof, rear vents, rear drip rail trim, rear hatch/gate seal and roof rack are all places I've seen let water creep in. The water will puddle under the jute/carpet backing if it gets in causing stink and rust. The leather will mold, etc.

When I picked up my 80 it had been sitting for at least a few years and moisture pretty much trashed interior bits. The brake system almost all needed to be replaced as well, etc. so this is from first hand experience.

A periodic, post-rain, feel around of the carpet/floor in the foot wells and the rear cargo area, near the tailgate, may be all that's needed to detect a leak before it gets too bad.

Since the sunroof is probably the most common culprit with water getting in it could be prudent to run a bead of silicone around the seal/gap. This could be removed later with minimal effort and helps reduce risk of larger damage.

 

[JoeCova]

Check the coolant lines/radiator hoses, especially those usual suspects. Anything with the pin clamp is basically a factory hose that's probably pretty tired.

 

[BTLSHP]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, but with an 80 you really want to stay on top of any leaks that are getting inside. The sunroof, rear vents, rear drip rail trim, rear hatch/gate seal and roof rack are all places I've seen let water creep in. The water will puddle under the jute/carpet backing if it gets in causing stink and rust. The leather will mold, etc.

When I picked up my 80 it had been sitting for at least a few years and moisture pretty much trashed interior bits. The brake system almost all needed to be replaced as well, etc. so this is from first hand experience.

A periodic, post-rain, feel around of the carpet/floor in the foot wells and the rear cargo area, near the tailgate, may be all that's needed to detect a leak before it gets too bad.

Since the sunroof is probably the most common culprit with water getting in it could be prudent to run a bead of silicone around the seal/gap. This could be removed later with minimal effort and helps reduce risk of larger damage.

Okay, Sunroof is never used. But the parking area is loaded with Willow Oaks which are a PIA. I cleaned out the cowl drains last summer, perhaps my first step should be to check the sunroof drains. As far as I can tell weatherstripping is in good condition all over.

 

[jpoole]

Hopefully you are fine but it is worth a check. Many folks on this forum deal with water issues in the interior of their 80 and my own 80 was no exception and seemed to have all the leaks

If you find water anywhere inside let us know what you have found and we can point you at the likely culprits for water in that location.

 

[BTLSHP]

Hopefully you are fine but it is worth a check. Many folks on this forum deal with water issues in the interior of their 80 and my own 80 was no exception and seemed to have all the leaks

If you find water anywhere inside let us know what you have found and we can point you at the likely culprits for water in that location.

It is supposed to rain here Thursday and I have to go over there any way so I will check. I will concentrate on front floorboards, back end and headliner around windshield and sunroof.

 

[BTLSHP]

Check the coolant lines/radiator hoses, especially those usual suspects. Anything with the pin clamp is basically a factory hose that's probably pretty tired.

Yes! I look for the white crust of old coolant all the time and track the level. Scared to death to touch the heater valve on the fire wall, it works but looks fragile. The last trip to the shop was to replace smaller hoses on the back left of the valve cover area. The PHH is one that bothers me, no swelling, no white powder.......but