Lots of questions about my 91 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Threads
38
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216
Location
Allen Texas
I acquired a 91 FJ80 that is 100% stock, unmolested (except for the smog pump removed), rust free, with 150k. Needs new interior and paint. I have never owned an FJ80 and have a ton of questions. My goal right now is to get everything cleaned up and working as stock. Then plan an Old Man Emu 2" lift and ARB bumpers.
1. The truck runs fine but have a code 21 which are the O2 sensors. Ordered 2 Denso and will install this weekend. Anything else I need to do other than bolt them in?
2. Not sure what is normal for these FJ80's but it sounds like a farm tractor running. The rockers are quite loud, is that normal or does it need a valve adjustment? The grommets on the valve cover look like they have never been replaced.
3. Was planning on draining the transmission and add Valvoline Full Synthetic. Do I need to crack the cover pan and replace the filter? Heard it was just metal anyway? How many quarts go back in after draining? Current fluid looks good, but want piece of mind that there is new fluid in there.
4. Planning on power washing the undercarriage or trying to find someone in the Dallas area that does dry ice blasting. Anyone familiar with that process? There is no rust, but some grease accumulation.
5. After cleaning the undercarriage, do you recommend primer and paint? If so, what brand? OR I have heard of Fluid Film, does anyone recommend that stuff?
6. The engine bay needs detailing, but there are so many electronic connections I am afraid to spray water anywhere in there. Suggestions?
7. The rear power windows do not work, nor do the power locks. What should I do to the stock parts to try to revive them, or is it easier to replace?

Thats more than enough questions for now. Give me a day for more!

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The 3fe has a notoriously loud valve train. That being said I am willing to bet it needs a valve adjustment. If I recall correctly the recommended valve adjustment interval from Toyota is 15,000 miles. They are quite easy to adjust....

Sounds like a good candidate for a v8 swap. With 150K you can probably drive it for a few years and replace all the bushings, hoses, interior, repaint, and get the truck set up however you like. Than when that old 3fe finally has problems the rig will be ready for a v8.
 
The 3fe has a notoriously loud valve train. That being said I am willing to bet it needs a valve adjustment. If I recall correctly the recommended valve adjustment interval from Toyota is 15,000 miles. They are quite easy to adjust....

Sounds like a good candidate for a v8 swap. With 150K you can probably drive it for a few years and replace all the bushings, hoses, interior, repaint, and get the truck set up however you like. Than when that old 3fe finally has problems the rig will be ready for a v8.
He'll be waiting a lot longer than a few years at 150k for the 3fe to have problems.... I said the same thing when I got mine. When the engine goes it will be diesel swap time....... never happened under my watch of just doing oil changes after the original baseline. Sold it and that guy did it for me by cooking the engine (guessing the electric fan failed) and driving it overheating for a bit. Bought it back and now i'm building a turbo 3fe for it. Was going to do a swap but found a rebuilt 3fe practically next door for a price that was too good to pass up on.
 
I acquired a 91 FJ80 that is 100% stock, unmolested (except for the smog pump removed), rust free, with 150k. Needs new interior and paint. I have never owned an FJ80 and have a ton of questions. My goal right now is to get everything cleaned up and working as stock. Then plan an Old Man Emu 2" lift and ARB bumpers.
1. The truck runs fine but have a code 21 which are the O2 sensors. Ordered 2 Denso and will install this weekend. Anything else I need to do other than bolt them in?
2. Not sure what is normal for these FJ80's but it sounds like a farm tractor running. The rockers are quite loud, is that normal or does it need a valve adjustment? The grommets on the valve cover look like they have never been replaced.
3. Was planning on draining the transmission and add Valvoline Full Synthetic. Do I need to crack the cover pan and replace the filter? Heard it was just metal anyway? How many quarts go back in after draining? Current fluid looks good, but want piece of mind that there is new fluid in there.
4. Planning on power washing the undercarriage or trying to find someone in the Dallas area that does dry ice blasting. Anyone familiar with that process? There is no rust, but some grease accumulation.
5. After cleaning the undercarriage, do you recommend primer and paint? If so, what brand? OR I have heard of Fluid Film, does anyone recommend that stuff?
6. The engine bay needs detailing, but there are so many electronic connections I am afraid to spray water anywhere in there. Suggestions?
7. The rear power windows do not work, nor do the power locks. What should I do to the stock parts to try to revive them, or is it easier to replace?

Thats more than enough questions for now. Give me a day for more!

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I acquired a 91 FJ80 that is 100% stock, unmolested (except for the smog pump removed), rust free, with 150k. Needs new interior and paint. I have never owned an FJ80 and have a ton of questions. My goal right now is to get everything cleaned up and working as stock. Then plan an Old Man Emu 2" lift and ARB bumpers.
1. The truck runs fine but have a code 21 which are the O2 sensors. Ordered 2 Denso and will install this weekend. Anything else I need to do other than bolt them in?
Bolt in and go
2. Not sure what is normal for these FJ80's but it sounds like a farm tractor running. The rockers are quite loud, is that normal or does it need a valve adjustment? The grommets on the valve cover look like they have never been replaced.
They sound like tractors, that said do a valve adjustment to baseline it
3. Was planning on draining the transmission and add Valvoline Full Synthetic. Do I need to crack the cover pan and replace the filter? Heard it was just metal anyway? How many quarts go back in after draining? Current fluid looks good, but want piece of mind that there is new fluid in there.
Drain pan, remove and clean "filter" put new fluid in. then do a drain and refill with every oil change for the first few oil changes to help baseline the trans.
4. Planning on power washing the undercarriage or trying to find someone in the Dallas area that does dry ice blasting. Anyone familiar with that process? There is no rust, but some grease accumulation.
Can't help there don't live in the area
5. After cleaning the undercarriage, do you recommend primer and paint? If so, what brand? OR I have heard of Fluid Film, does anyone recommend that stuff?
I'd go rust bullet. Easy to apply and gets good reviews.
6. The engine bay needs detailing, but there are so many electronic connections I am afraid to spray water anywhere in there. Suggestions?
Get it professionally done if worried
7. The rear power windows do not work, nor do the power locks. What should I do to the stock parts to try to revive them, or is it easier to replace?
Check the FSM for trouble shooting techs.... since they both don't work it may be a blown fuse.

Baseline it, expect everything to be original on a truck that age unless you have documents that say otherwise.

Order this.


That will take care of the baselining along with an oil change, i'd do the T-case also for piece of mind.


As far as modding it..... figure out your plan for it. DD, Camper, Overlanding, Wheeler, etc or a mix of all of them.... look through builds on here and go from there. To me the first mods to something that will be used off road is always sliders and skid plates. Then figure out how high you want to go and buy your tires accordingly.
 
He'll be waiting a lot longer than a few years at 150k for the 3fe to have problems.... I said the same thing when I got mine. When the engine goes it will be diesel swap time....... never happened under my watch of just doing oil changes after the original baseline. Sold it and that guy did it for me by cooking the engine (guessing the electric fan failed) and driving it overheating for a bit. Bought it back and now i'm building a turbo 3fe for it. Was going to do a swap but found a rebuilt 3fe practically next door for a price that was too good to pass up on.
Same experience for me. I got my 91 with 185K, totalled the rig at 295K and she was still purring like a kitten. But I also never ran my 3fe over 3200 rip ems. Some guys like to run them up to redline and I suspect they don't get as much mileage.

This is why they make perfect V8 candidate. The 3fe will give you so much time to get everything else dialed in and refurbished before the V8.
 
Same experience for me. I got my 91 with 185K, totalled the rig at 295K and she was still purring like a kitten. But I also never ran my 3fe over 3200 rip ems. Some guys like to run them up to redline and I suspect they don't get as much mileage.

This is why they make perfect V8 candidate. The 3fe will give you so much time to get everything else dialed in and refurbished before the V8.
I hear ya
 
The 3fe has a notoriously loud valve train. That being said I am willing to bet it needs a valve adjustment. If I recall correctly the recommended valve adjustment interval from Toyota is 15,000 miles. They are quite easy to adjust....

Sounds like a good candidate for a v8 swap. With 150K you can probably drive it for a few years and replace all the bushings, hoses, interior, repaint, and get the truck set up however you like. Than when that old 3fe finally has problems the rig will be ready for a v8.
Is this something that I should have the dealership do, or can just about any decent mechanic handle it?
 
I acquired a 91 FJ80 that is 100% stock, unmolested (except for the smog pump removed), rust free, with 150k. Needs new interior and paint. I have never owned an FJ80 and have a ton of questions. My goal right now is to get everything cleaned up and working as stock. Then plan an Old Man Emu 2" lift and ARB bumpers.
1. The truck runs fine but have a code 21 which are the O2 sensors. Ordered 2 Denso and will install this weekend. Anything else I need to do other than bolt them in?
Bolt in and go
2. Not sure what is normal for these FJ80's but it sounds like a farm tractor running. The rockers are quite loud, is that normal or does it need a valve adjustment? The grommets on the valve cover look like they have never been replaced.
They sound like tractors, that said do a valve adjustment to baseline it
3. Was planning on draining the transmission and add Valvoline Full Synthetic. Do I need to crack the cover pan and replace the filter? Heard it was just metal anyway? How many quarts go back in after draining? Current fluid looks good, but want piece of mind that there is new fluid in there.
Drain pan, remove and clean "filter" put new fluid in. then do a drain and refill with every oil change for the first few oil changes to help baseline the trans.
4. Planning on power washing the undercarriage or trying to find someone in the Dallas area that does dry ice blasting. Anyone familiar with that process? There is no rust, but some grease accumulation.
Can't help there don't live in the area
5. After cleaning the undercarriage, do you recommend primer and paint? If so, what brand? OR I have heard of Fluid Film, does anyone recommend that stuff?
I'd go rust bullet. Easy to apply and gets good reviews.
6. The engine bay needs detailing, but there are so many electronic connections I am afraid to spray water anywhere in there. Suggestions?
Get it professionally done if worried
7. The rear power windows do not work, nor do the power locks. What should I do to the stock parts to try to revive them, or is it easier to replace?
Check the FSM for trouble shooting techs.... since they both don't work it may be a blown fuse.

Baseline it, expect everything to be original on a truck that age unless you have documents that say otherwise.

Order this.


That will take care of the baselining along with an oil change, i'd do the T-case also for piece of mind.


As far as modding it..... figure out your plan for it. DD, Camper, Overlanding, Wheeler, etc or a mix of all of them.... look through builds on here and go from there. To me the first mods to something that will be used off road is always sliders and skid plates. Then figure out how high you want to go and buy your tires accordingly.
Thanks for the responses!
 
Is this something that I should have the dealership do, or can just about any decent mechanic handle it?

You can do it with a little research. I bet the 3fe is one of the easiest motors for adjusting the valves. Or just find an older experienced mechanic to do it.
 
I'm in Southlake, TX and I love my 3FE. don't let these guys tell you that you need a swap. You hit the nail on the head. The 3F and 2F engines ARE based on tractor engines. Like old tractor engines, they will always run no matter what. Since you already have the smog pump removed, you should make sure the EGR is gone and the CAT is also gone.

I pulled my transmission sump when I first got m truck to replace the filter. I don't think that was needed. Just change the fluid. Also, you will want so add supplemental transmission cooling. The OEM transmission cooler just isn't enough.
 
I'm in Southlake, TX and I love my 3FE. don't let these guys tell you that you need a swap. You hit the nail on the head. The 3F and 2F engines ARE based on tractor engines. Like old tractor engines, they will always run no matter what. Since you already have the smog pump removed, you should make sure the EGR is gone and the CAT is also gone.

I pulled my transmission sump when I first got m truck to replace the filter. I don't think that was needed. Just change the fluid. Also, you will want so add supplemental transmission cooling. The OEM transmission cooler just isn't enough.

You are right, it is a super reliable motor, but it is also gutless and a lot of parts are quickly becoming NA for the 3fe. If you pay attention there are plenty of people on this forum who have had to rebuild or replace the 3fe. It does have problems like nylon timing gears and an oil galley plug that pops out and destroys the motor when all the oil drains from the block. Also don't forget about the multitude of hoses on the beast that probably need to be changed.

To the OP, maintain the 3fe as much as you can and plan to swap a different motor in if it ever dies. Hopefully you can drive it for 5+ years and R&R the rest of the cruiser before the 3fe gives up the ghost.

P.S. thermostat housings are NA for the 3fe along with a lot of other parts and a used housing goes for $250.00ish. It would probably be wise to take yours off and give it a thorough cleaning along with new gaskets and thermostat. It took me a weak of soaking mine in weak acid and picking all the crust out to get it cleaned up. The o-ring mating surface on mine was also corroded so bad that I had to use a dremel tool and re-profile the mating surface.

Goodluck
 
I bought my 92 with 156K miles almost a year ago. With an FSM, these forums, and a little common sense, you can take care of the baselining tasks yourself. The only work I’ve hired someone to do was a regear, lockers, and knuckle rebuild while they were in there. Have fun man. I really enjoy my little tractor.
 
Don’t fear the valve adjustment! I never did one before my 3FE. It wasn’t hard and quieted things down a lot
 
I'm in Southlake, TX and I love my 3FE. don't let these guys tell you that you need a swap. You hit the nail on the head. The 3F and 2F engines ARE based on tractor engines. Like old tractor engines, they will always run no matter what. Since you already have the smog pump removed, you should make sure the EGR is gone and the CAT is also gone.

I pulled my transmission sump when I first got m truck to replace the filter. I don't think that was needed. Just change the fluid. Also, you will want so add supplemental transmission cooling. The OEM transmission cooler just isn't enough.
Yeah, I'm not planning a V8 swap, I want to keep the truck stock, or at least easily returned to stock, so I can sell it at some point. I'm actually going to put a new smog pump on just do it is super stock!
 
keep it stock....or get a 4.5L and let your bill fly like at a strip club when the motor blows...
nobody need a V8 swap unless you want to spin your 40" tires climbing a mud hole. Enjoy it or let someone cut it up with their own money and time.
 

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