Loosening smog pump on 87FJ60, any ideas? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 24, 2013
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Clark, Colorado
Hi Guys,
Since my last month's fuel pump problem, which by the way, is working great, I've run up against a problem that I never, ever thought I'd need consultation for, but here goes.
I recently decided to change my drive belts, alternator/power steering, and water pump/smog pump. I removed the a/c and all it's components a few years ago when I replaced my radiator. So..... I know how the alternator mounts, and pivots, and how to adjust the tension. So, knowing that, and reading a thread here that included diagrams of the smog pump, where the pivot bolt was, etc, I proceeded. No big deal. I went to a friend's house to do the work. He has a heated, well organized garage, and he's pretty good at wrenching stuff, and he offered to let me use his tools. Anyway, took the alt belt off, and discovered that reaching the s/pump pivot bolt was quite difficult. As some of you must know, it's very close to the pulley and belt, and just about impossible to reach from above. Okay, no problem, I slid under the rig with a bright light, and realized that I needed to get the lock nut on the back side loose. It was virtually impossible to see from underneath, due to the engine mount blocking my sight. Back up top again, we could see it underneath the tangle of vacuum tubes and associated gizmos.
My buddy thought he could wiggle his arm down there and get a wrench on it, but found that he could get his arm down there, but couldn't move it, nor even get the stubby ratchet on the nut. Well, finally, I got a 12mm open end on the front facing bolt head, but only had about an inch or 2 of room to move. I get the wrench on and pushed as hard as I could; it moved, but it was the wrench stripping on the bolt Bad...Okay, the pivot bolt was wrenched on so tight, that no matter how much force I applied, it would not budge. So, I thought to myself, "Who in their right mind tightened that s.o.b. like that?" Then I realized it was the shop in my town that replaced my water pump about 7 years ago, a shop that has the reputation for being the only place FJ60 and FJ40 owners go to, because these guys are supposed to be the best.

At any rate, after I ranted and raved to my buddy, who, by the way agreed that whoever tightened that bolt that much ought to be horsewhipped, we decided that something must be removed to get at that rear lock nut. None of the posts I read here even hinted at the difficulty of reaching the rear lock nut on the pivot bolt. Normally, changing an engine belt is simple. I've been doing it since 1972, and never have had this kind of difficulty. I would be really grateful to hear from any of you guys who have experienced my problem. I can't be the only person to have encountered this. So, give me a shout out if you want. Thankfully, the belt is still in pretty good shape, but I know how it goes. It'll break when I least expect it, so I'd like to get the new one on sometime in the near future. And I'm not gonna take it in the shop that committed the offense of over-----tightening it. I know they would just look me like at I'm a stupid, old, complainer. I'm gonna fix it by myself, with a little help from my friends.
 

Jaric00n

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I remember doing all my belts not long ago..also an 87FJ60
and everything was torqued properly...and I was able to get to the rear bolt with no probs using my Hazet tool with an extension from further back and it came off easily....
so I guess you should get one of those stripped head adapters and a socket with an extension and go for it lovingly
it will come out...
can you hit it with PB blast or Kroil?


in fact I removed the air pump as I was doing a desmog =3

and while removing everything down there i found some nuts and washers embedded in crud from a previous work done in the area (air pump was replaced in 2016 according to paperwork...and is now sitting on a shelf.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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I pulled mine too cuz it had seized but I was already desmoged at that point so had nothing in my way.
Curious if you have the headlight washer res in the bay? If so I’d think maybe pulling it could give you a tad more room to reach?
 

Jaric00n

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I had the headlight washer tank there, didn't bother me a bit...
I did use a few cinder blocks to get a little higher above the side of the truck though,

=3
 

OSS

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Bummer days. Typical "one little stuck bolt results in an engine tear down"

So the smog pump pivot bolt lock nut got torqued down too hard. In retrospect (lot a good it will do you now) the nut at the back should have been loosened, not the bolt head at the front. The bolt has a lot of friction already applied to it from the pump jamming against the bracket.

That little smog pump pivot bolt nut buried deep next to the motor mount CAN be reached with a 3/8" ratchet with an extension with maybe a wobble socket from above.

Your arm needs to jamb down next to the power steering line (with its itchy asbestos heat shield (wear long sleeves) after moving a few vacuum hoses. Although you can't reach the nut with your fingers, the ratchet w the extension can.
 

erse

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I struggled with that bolt on my old 84 even with the radiator etc off of the front of the vehicle. My recommendation would be to create as much room as you can. For me it saved time in the long run
@Cincodemustache sounds worth a shot to me
 

mattressking

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I use a ratcheting 12mm wrench. If all smog stuff is in tact, its easiest from the bottom and reach up. The nut resides directly in front (toward the grill) from the driver side top motor mount stud/nut. Insert at a slight angle and you can then ratchet it loose. might have to throw a 12mm on the head of the bolt if it spins the bolt simultaneously.

Once AIR pump is gone....I just reach down and throw a wrench on it :) Takes me 5min to pull the SP now.
 
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Joined
Jun 24, 2013
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Clark, Colorado
Thanks for the feedback everyone. It's the front end of the bolt thats kinda chewed. The back side, where the lock nut is, thats the one I couldn't get to. But, after reading everyones comments, I'm gonna go out now and check on it. I may remove the fender well it it isn't too covered with mud. I live out in the sticks, 3.5 miles from the nearest asphalt, and its melting snow, lots of mud, but I can put it in a dirt floor barn to work on. I have a feeling that if I can get on the nut from the rear, it'll loosen enough for me to change the belt. The smog pump is all right, no noises or lock ups or anything. I'll get back later and post my results, good or bad. I don't think I have a swivel head wrench, but I have some really stubby little open ends.
 

DFXR

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. It's the front end of the bolt thats kinda chewed. The back side, where the lock nut is, thats the one I couldn't get to. But, after reading everyones comments, I'm gonna go out now and check on it. I may remove the fender well it it isn't too covered with mud. I live out in the sticks, 3.5 miles from the nearest asphalt, and its melting snow, lots of mud, but I can put it in a dirt floor barn to work on. I have a feeling that if I can get on the nut from the rear, it'll loosen enough for me to change the belt. The smog pump is all right, no noises or lock ups or anything. I'll get back later and post my results, good or bad. I don't think I have a swivel head wrench, but I have some really stubby little open ends.


I'm trying to picture just where it sits - I have taken my smog pump out twice - once to replace and once more recently to get at the engine mount. There were moments both times where it seemed near impossible but it came out in the end. And this is a fully smogged CA vehicle.

Luckily all you have to do is loosen that nut. It can be done.

If you can get a little stubby on there, with the handle sitting basically level to the ground, can you get a piece of steel pipe down on the handle and apply some persuasion with a hammer? I have had good luck all around there (smog pump bracket too) with 1/2" X 24" steel pipe and a 6lb sledge. Tapping, not wailing, of course.
 
Joined
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1.5 hrs later.
Hate to admit defeat. But, I simply cannot get that thing to move. It's rounded on the front side, and when I could get a wrench on the rear lock nut, there wasn't enough room for me to get any kind of movement. I tried to use vise grips on it but there just ain't enough room. I'll try some more over the weekend.
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
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Location
Clark, Colorado
I'm trying to picture just where it sits - I have taken my smog pump out twice - once to replace and once more recently to get at the engine mount. There were moments both times where it seemed near impossible but it came out in the end. And this is a fully smogged CA vehicle.

Luckily all you have to do is loosen that nut. It can be done.

If you can get a little stubby on there, with the handle sitting basically level to the ground, can you get a piece of steel pipe down on the handle and apply some persuasion with a hammer? I have had good luck all around there (smog pump bracket too) with 1/2" X 24" steel pipe and a 6lb sledge. Tapping, not wailing, of course.
Well, I'll have to try that, but I got get a stubby. Mine won't do. The shortest one I have is about 5 ", and there isn't enough room down there. Funny, it's easy to reach now that I've located it, but its all by feel, not by sight. I've the weekend to mess around. It's really irritating to be humiliated by a 12mm nut. It drives me bonkers, sort of... I'll get over it. I just hate being stopped dead in my tracks by someone else's over-wrenching . Especially on a part that pivots. Thats common sense. Oh well, I'll stop complaining and try again tomorrow.
 

erse

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I did quite a few jobs on the old 84 IIhad wher I had to walk away for a while. Sometimes for a couple of days. I figured it was the Toyota God's teaching me patience. Take a breath have a beer tonight and tomorrow is a new day.
 

g-man

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dumb question but you did loosen the tensioner first and loosen the belt from the pulley right? I never had a problem with the pivot bolt other than its a little tight pulling it out..it wants to hit the fan shroud. Maybe try a 1/4 inch ratchet as it is smaller and can get down in tight spot. But now that the bolt head is rounded maybe a small vice grip on it and turn from the back.
 

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