Loose Window Crank - '75 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[HonestlyHow]

The passenger-side window crank has become loose and will only roll the window down or up when the center of the handle (if that makes sense) is pressed into the door. Didn't have too much time first pass, but wasn't able to fully remove the inner door cover - seemed to be caught around the door latch/lock. I did see a bit of foam around where the handle attaches to the assembly, but couldn't see the clip.

I've seen a few posts on this dating to a while back, but haven't been able to nail down the fix. Any thoughts?

 

[Wadesters]

The window crank is plastic and has splines that contact the regulator metal post. Over time the plastic splines wear out. There is a special tool that goes between the window crank and door card that pops out the clip. You can also use a small screwdriver and pry the window crank away from the door card enough to see the clip. You should be able to pop the clip with an eyeglass screwdriver or similar. Replace the crank and you should be good to go...

 

[HonestlyHow]

The window crank is plastic and has splines that contact the regulator metal post. Over time the plastic splines wear out. There is a special tool that goes between the window crank and door card that pops out the clip. You can also use a small screwdriver and pry the window crank away from the door card enough to see the clip. You should be able to pop the clip with an eyeglass screwdriver or similar. Replace the crank and you should be good to go...

That was the hope, I've already ordered two replacement cranks so we will see how that goes this weekend.

Related, but do you have any tips on reattaching the door latch trim (seen here)? Some of it isn't sitting flush with the door card because I'm an idiot, but it's not cracked or anything.

 

[emac]

I think you need to play with the bezel a little. Lift the handle as you install it and make sure the little screw hole lines up. Jiggle it, install one end first, etc. It will fall into place....at least that is my experience.

 

[Wadesters]

Door latch trim is a little tricky and stubborn. Once you have it inserted over the handle it will pop into place with a little persuasion.

 

[Living in the Past]

Have a set of doors I picked up real cheap years ago. I know they were 1/75-8/76 because no fixed nut for the mirror arm. I show original window crank for the one piece door 1/75-9/75. Guessing that is what these doors are since window cranks are metal not plastic.

 

[HonestlyHow]

Door latch trim is a little tricky and stubborn. Once you have it inserted over the handle it will pop into place with a little persuasion.

I'm more than halfway there at least, it hasn't come all the way off. Random jiggering it is!

 

[brian]

75s are white metal not plastic.

 

[Living in the Past]

Just my $50 set of doors and must be 1/75-9/75. Here is the driver's door.

Here is the driver's door window crank on my 10/75 76 model.

Not sure when they changed to a black center in the knob but the handle is plastic. Now to see if I have anymore metal handle stored away. Plastic was certainly a downgrade.

 

[40Man]

A thin cloth towel works much better than a screwdriver to remove the clip on the crank. Quick and simple:

 

[brian]

Theres a 10 dollar tool that does a better job still.

 

[HonestlyHow]

Something like this? Somehow gets the clip too?

 

[Living in the Past]

I bought the four piece door trim tool from Harbor Freight years ago. Still sell it for $6.99 on line. With a 20% coupon it's even cheaper. One of the other tools comes in handy removing door cards.