loose wheel stud (1 Viewer)

[Moby]

Not too long ago (a month or so) I rebuilt my front axle, had my rotors turned and had the machine shop press in all new wheel studs (OEM, from CDan).

I just had new tires put on and the tire guys says that one of the wheel studs is loose and backs out. He shows me and sure enough the stud is loose (just one). These were all tight in the hub when I got it back from the machine shop.

So how much of a problem is this? I'm leaving on a trip on Thursday - do I need to pull the hub off and get this fixed before I go? Or just make sure that the lug nuts are properly torqued?

The tire guy (who is in the middle of putting FJ-80 rod ends on his Samuri project) suggested stacking a couple of washers and trying to set it by tightening a lug nut down on it with an impact wrench (which I can do).

 

[brownbear]

The tire guy (who is in the middle of putting FJ-80 rod ends on his Samuri project) suggested stacking a couple of washers and trying to set it by tightening a lug nut down on it with an impact wrench (which I can do).

I would try this. But skip the impact. It might damage the splines in the hub if they are not lined up and it turns hard. I would just use a socket on a bar.

First of all it might have been bumped hard enough to push it back. So try to pull it by finger and see if you can feel the spines on the inside. It should pull up to them and then not be allowed to rotate. At this point stack the washers. Gently start drawing it in. Adding washers as you get closer. If the splines are shot it might still tighten with pressure on the head of the stud. But good luck getting it loose again.

If the splines are stripped hopefully its the stud only.

If it doesn't draw in and feel engaged in the splines, but possibly gets tight to torque you could drive it. I would not drive on the highway with out the lug nut at torque. It might come off and be a projectile into someones car. Also I would not drive with the stud flopping around. It will surely fawk the hub. Not to mention if it backs all the way out it might get caught in some rotating spot, causing more damage.

 

[brownbear]

in furure I may add... don't turn rotors. They will only warp. If they need turning replace them. Brembos at napa are around 100 bucks.

Also you don't need a machine shop to press the studs in and out. A simple hammer(BFH) with a brass punch will knock em out. Use a heat gun or propane torch slightly to heat it if needed.

And one more OEM studs are nice, but they are like 10 bucks at my dealer...... aftermarket is 2. I've also re-used studs with great success too. Just keep a few spares when you do the job, as I did damage one, on one job a couple years back.

 

[KLF]

in furure I may add... don't turn rotors. They will only warp. If they need turning replace them.

Not to derail the thread, but I have to disagree with this. It's been a few years, but I've turned rotors several times and never had them warp later on.

 

[Moby]

So basically as long as I can get the stud in the splines and torqued to spec it should be OK? I'm pretty sure that the tire guy got it torqued to spec but I will pull them off and double check tonight. If not I'll pull the rotor off and replace the stud (and hope that the hub splines aren't stripped).

 

[freds40]

And one more OEM studs are nice, but they are like 10 bucks at my dealer...... aftermarket is 2. I've also re-used studs with great success too. Just keep a few spares when you do the job, as I did damage one, on one job a couple years back.

Where are you buying studs that work that are not OEM? On a buddy's truck, we tried NAPA, Pep Boys, and Autozone and they all had the same stud that happened to be the wrong one. I want to say the OD @ the shoulder on them was too big by a few thousandths and maybe the splines in the wrong location. I'd love to find a parts store that has the correct ones on the shelf.



As far as stripped studs go, I've had it happen before and I've been able to throw a good tack weld or two on them to hold in place. The stud is still aligned properly it's just not as easy to pull them.

 

[Mace]

Not to derail the thread, but I have to disagree with this. It's been a few years, but I've turned rotors several times and never had them warp later on.

Yeppers, I have turned a bunch of LC rotors and not had them warp..

 

[Moby]

Yeah, my slotted hi-buck DBA rotors supposedly designed for heavy SUVs warped in less that 10,000 miles. They come painted with heat indicators on them and none of the indicators have changed colors (in other words the rotors never overheated). I'm not expecting that turning them will produce any better results...

 

[sandcruiser]

if you can't get the stud to seat enough to torque to spec, then you should really consider pulling it all apart and installing a new stud.

where would you rather fight that? in your driveway, or on the trail?

because if the stud does spin while you are trying to pull a flat tire off, your trail buddies aren't going to be impressed and they might start drinking your beer. better to fix it ahead of time.

by "fix" it, I would try just cranking it down hard w/ a few washers. Do try to seat the splines first.

If that doesn't work, then hit it with an impact gun.

If it still spins, then pull it apart and replace (or tack weld it)

 

[Moby]

if you can't get the stud to seat enough to torque to spec, then you should really consider pulling it all apart and installing a new stud.

where would you rather fight that? in your driveway, or on the trail?

because if the stud does spin while you are trying to pull a flat tire off, your trail buddies aren't going to be impressed and they might start drinking your beer. better to fix it ahead of time.

by "fix" it, I would try just cranking it down hard w/ a few washers. Do try to seat the splines first.

If that doesn't work, then hit it with an impact gun.

If it still spins, then pull it apart and replace (or tack weld it)

Yes, this is basically my plan (in the driveway). If I can't get it to torque tonight I'll pull it apart and put a new one in tomorrow evening. I've got a new stud and a couple of spares coming into the local dealer tomorrow morning just in case.

 

[brownbear]

Not to derail the thread, but I have to disagree with this. It's been a few years, but I've turned rotors several times and never had them warp later on.

It's also been my (in a few spots) Toyota dealers opinion to not turn the rotors on a brake job. They would not do it.

I see no purpose in turning them. If they are grooved I would just replace them.

I got replacment studs at a Chiefton auto parts store in Prince George. I was able to bring a stud and they compared it to their charts. Far cheaper. I was also told that Kal Tire(all canadian places....) can get them from their books.

I would try a major tire place to see if they can get them. They tend to break more than dealers and have to replace them for customers all the time. I doubt there isn't an aftermarket available.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I seem to remember some posts that Doorman studs have been found to be acceptable aftermarket alternatives to OEM. Confirm or deny anyone?

 

[Moby]

OK, I was able to seat the splines by hand and then torqued them to 125ft/lbs (with a stack of washers, not with the wheel on). I marked the stud and the hub face and the stud did not rotate at this torque (actually once I finger seated it it was very tight). The stud (actually there are two like this) was fully seated at this point based on measuring how much the other studs stick out from the hub.

However a firm tap with the handle of a hammer knocked it loose again. Given that these failed to stay set at 125ft/lbs I did not try my impact wrench for fear of damaging the threads on the stud.

I put the wheel back on and torqued all lug nuts to the 116ft/lbs spec and drove it to work today.

So what is the general consensus on this? Good to go or a time bomb?

 

[Mace]

It will be fine.

the flange on the studs is the ultimate holding fator anyway.

It is no different than using a bolt to hold something together. All the stud does is keep it from turning when you tighten the nut....

 

[brownbear]

If it holds with out rotating you're safe. Like Mace said the head on the stud is the holding factor. But it is something you need to fix down the road. The splines might be worn enough that it could later cause the stud to move more in the hole. The stud is in shear when the wheel is turning, and with the weight on it. So the splines are important in that regard.

But as long as the nut stays tight you are safe to drive it.

I wonder what went wrong to cause the studs to come loose? maybe the installer did not line the splines up before they were pressed in.... its not difficult to put them in.

 

[Mace]

The stud is in shear when the wheel is turning, and with the weight on it. So the splines are important in that regard.

No, the mounting surfaces on the wheel itself to the hub is what is in shear. The process of torquing the lug nuts removes the shear forces on the studs. Just like the steering arms. The studs should only see a tensional component. If the studs were in shear, you would not need studs, just pins...

 

[KLF]

It's also been my (in a few spots) Toyota dealers opinion to not turn the rotors on a brake job. They would not do it.

They don't turn them because it's too much trouble. They don't want to mess with it. They'd rather just spend your money and put shiney new ones on.

Ask a dealer to put a set of contacts in a starter. Or rebuild a brake caliper. They'll tell you to get lost. They just want to put new ones on and charge you a butt-load of money for the part.

New rotors -- $100+ each
Turning an old rotor -- ~$15

Seems like an easy choice to me.

 

[Mace]

They don't turn them because it's too much trouble. They don't want to mess with it. They'd rather just spend your money and put shiney new ones on.

Ask a dealer to put a set of contacts in a starter. Or rebuild a brake caliper. They'll tell you to get lost. They just want to put new ones on and charge you a butt-load of money for the part.

New rotors -- $100+ each
Turning an old rotor -- ~$15

Seems like an easy choice to me.

Considering it takes the same amount of effort (generally) to pull the rotors and have them turned as it does to just replace them.. I can understand that.

I did manage to find a place in Reno that would actually turn rotors with the hubs attatched...

Made things really nice.

 

[brownbear]

They don't turn them because it's too much trouble. They don't want to mess with it. They'd rather just spend your money and put shiney new ones on.

Ask a dealer to put a set of contacts in a starter. Or rebuild a brake caliper. They'll tell you to get lost. They just want to put new ones on and charge you a butt-load of money for the part.

New rotors -- $100+ each
Turning an old rotor -- ~$15

Seems like an easy choice to me.

That's fair, but I am also a believer you can toss a set of pads in without turning the rotors. The pads will very quickly match the rotors anyhow. So why remove material? What does it gain? As well if it was grooved I would think you might not have much meat left there.

I have no issues with just adding pads when they are worn out. With out touching the rotor. As long as the rotor was not warped or grooved and mets the measurement..

 

[Mace]

That's fair, but I am also a believer you can toss a set of pads in without turning the rotors. The pads will very quickly match the rotors anyhow. So why remove material? What does it gain? As well if it was grooved I would think you might not have much meat left there.

I have no issues with just adding pads when they are worn out. With out touching the rotor. As long as the rotor was not warped or grooved and mets the measurement..

Select Land Rovers have an interesting take on that..

They specifically make their pads with a high friction coating to "turn" the rotors with the first couple of stops. It actually has instructions in the manual describing how to get the truck to a moderate speed and them romp on the brakes