I just had both front wheel bearings replaced. My left wheel bearing has a bit 1/16th" or more of play in it. My question is should I tighten it will it harm anything?
Loose wheel bearing (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruisersurf
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Yes. They should always be tight. tighten the INNER nut to 35 LB-FT and the outer nut to 45 LB-FT. (Not LB-IN like the FSM states) This is the @Tools R Us method.
I switched to the Trail Gear nuts and tightened to 35 LB-FT.
- Thread starter
- #4
What size nut are the two inner nuts? Is it a 74mm?
Don’t try and compensate by over tightening.
My buddy did this and his whole spindle melted onto the bearing and eventually the wheel spinning caused the whole spindle to literally blow up. Only thing holding it onto the axle was the caliper.
You either bought some really cheap bearings or your spindle is out of spec, which should be addressed by replacing either or with quality parts.
I’ll try and see if I still have a picture of the carnage.
My buddy did this and his whole spindle melted onto the bearing and eventually the wheel spinning caused the whole spindle to literally blow up. Only thing holding it onto the axle was the caliper.
You either bought some really cheap bearings or your spindle is out of spec, which should be addressed by replacing either or with quality parts.
I’ll try and see if I still have a picture of the carnage.
But first tighten to 45lbs then back off, spin left/right m, then retighten to ~25lbs. If that doesn’t work then you have an issue with what I said in my previous post.
Is there an error in the fsm? I never knew that. I might need to check mine now.
This is how I did mine and bearings have no movement. Used koyo I'm pretty sure. I also used the scale puller but went mostly off feel.
I'm on my phone so I apologise for the image.
This is how I did mine and bearings have no movement. Used koyo I'm pretty sure. I also used the scale puller but went mostly off feel.
I'm on my phone so I apologise for the image.
I have my inner nuts at 42ish ftlbs and my outer at 48 ftlbs if I remember right. Had to retighten my wheel bearings after a couple hundred miles after I did my axle service the first time. Everything has been fine since. Never used a scale and everything seems fine. I don't do the lossen the nut thing ethier, just torque it to 42ftlbs spin it a couple times each direction and then torque it again to 42ftlbs then follow up with washers and outer nut at 48ftlbs
Yes, the manual has an error.
There are many documented cases of following the FSM to the tee (I am one of them) and within 5000 miles, the WB were loose again.
I then followed the spec that is listed for a 1978 K20 Chevrolet pickup and that's VERY close to what Tools R Us does. He has done LOTS of these with no failures and even with large tires and hard wheeling.
I now follow very close to what he does because it works.
Wow thanks! I'll be back in there soon to install my RCV axles. I'll follow the 35 inner and 45 outter.
Gotta Love the information on this site.
When you do that, don't forget to transfer the reluctor rings from your old axles to the new ones. Without them, you don't have ABS, but you do get to have your wife ask about it EVERY time she drives it!
Then she would never be asking about it.. see what I did there
I have some spare old birfs to rob the rings from. Thanks for the heads up
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Doubt it's an error, could be an example of reducing preload to slightly reduce drag, friction. Combined with the thinnest oil possible, etc, lowers their fleet EPA fuel consumption? Whatever, field proof has shown higher bearing preload is beneficial, without any issues.
Most of the rigs we work on are set at 35ft/lb, street rigs, maybe slightly less. We only replace wheel bearings if they really need it, new bearings need more care, may need to be adjusted as they break in. Old/proven bearings, as long as they are put back where they came from, are more stable, good to go. Never want to run them loose, it beats up hardware, spindles, washers, etc.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Yup! The FSM is not written for rigs that have armor, accessories, biggie tires, and crazy drivers, like me! Adjustments need to be made occasionally, some based on foresight, but mostly based on experience!
- Thread starter
- #16
When I raised one wheel off the ground at a time I'm not able to spin my wheel. I put the car in neutral and still could'nt. With all wheel drive is it necessary to have all four wheels off the ground to be able to spin the front axels? Sorry for the stupid question.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Did you try putting the transfer case in neutral?
When you say 1/16th of play in it, are you saying if you grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock you get a 1/16" of movement towards/away from you?
As in, what are you doing to get the play and in what direction?
I would have assumed that 1/16" play is within spec.
As in, what are you doing to get the play and in what direction?
I would have assumed that 1/16" play is within spec.
- Thread starter
- #19
Duh!! I forgot about that! I'm used to a normal 4 wheel drive.
Thanks. I told you I ask stupid questions.
Thanks. I told you I ask stupid questions.
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They should be preloaded, zero play and some drag.
