Loose inner bearing race on axle hub - time for a new hub? (1 Viewer)

[TerraNerva]

Tapped in new race for inner wheel bearing, bottomed out fine, but it is moving and is no where near tight in the hub . The other inner wheel bearing race on the other hub seated fine. I compared the two part numbers and they are the same. I tapped out the new race and tapped old race back in and it was same...wiggled a bit after it bottomed out. This is my first birf rebuild, but sounds like I need a new hub.

Anyone had this occur and what was solution?

 

[BILT4ME]

You should get a new hub.

If time and pocketbook don't allow, you can dimple the race seating area with a center punch. Do this in about 20 locations evenly spaced around the the interior circumference of the hub, covering the entire race area.

Then get GREEN Loctite and goober in there. Tap in the race and let it cure overnight. Assemble and run it. It's not perfect, but will do for a while.

 

[Oscar Witte]

I would pick up a used hub from someone like @cruiserjunktion

 

[cruisermatt]

Sounds like a bearing race has spun in there at some point. I've done the trick with a chisel and punching one or two notches in the hub, no need for 20 though. I would stay away from green retaining compound unless you want to never be able to remove it again. That stuff is like a weld. High-strength Loctite (red) might work if it's a tight enough space between the race and hub, and it easy enough to get it to break with MAP gas.

 

[TerraNerva]

If I dimple the race, I'll have to order new inner bearings again when I replace the hub, so sounds like a new or used hub, and patience to do it right first time is way to go.

I sure wanted to finish this today....

 

[cruisermatt]

Chisel the hub, not the race. Not that you would be able to, anyways, the bearing race is much much harder then the soft hub.

 

[TerraNerva]

Sorry yes, thats what I meant, but will I be able to reuse race and bearing? I'm guessing no unless I tap them out very carefully?

EDIT: and yes the wiggle is very minimal, but it falls out when I turn it upside down, so it's that loose.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just get a new to you hub then.

Not worth jacking around unless you are in a HAVE TO situation.

 

[TerraNerva]

I thought I'd give it shot...We dimpled it several time around the internal hub face and it drove in super tight. Added some red locktite for measure and it seated surprisingly snug. Should be fine temporarily for as much as drive it locally to the mountains and back, but I'll be ordering a hub and new cone washers soon.

Cheers again to the Mud family for all the input. Birf rebuild successful.

 

[cruisermatt]

That’s fine permanently. The bearing race really doesn’t need to be pressed in there with the force of a 1000 suns.

 

[Rifleman]

Added some red locktite

Just as an FYI red Loctite is a thread locker, not a retaining compound. In a case like yours the best loctite to use would be a retaining compound such as Loctite RC620 that will fill a worn bore up to .008 of an inch, plus it'll withstand temps up to 200 degrees C before heat starts to effect it's bond. And if your part is really worn then Locktite RC680 will fill a worn bore up to .015 of an inch but it has a lower operating temp before it's bond is effected.

LOCTITE 620

LOCTITE 620 is a high strength, high temperature resistant retaining compound.

www.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE 680

High strength, methacrylate ester acrylic liquid designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where low viscosity is required.

www.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[BILT4ME]

Just as an FYI red Loctite is a thread locker, not a retaining compound. In a case like yours the best loctite to use would be a retaining compound such as Loctite RC620 that will fill a worn bore up to .008 of an inch, plus it'll withstand temps up to 200 degrees C before heat starts to effect it's bond. And if your part is really worn then Locktite RC680 will fill a worn bore up to .015 of an inch but it has a lower operating temp before it's bond is effected.

LOCTITE 620

LOCTITE 620 is a high strength, high temperature resistant retaining compound.

www.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE 680

High strength, methacrylate ester acrylic liquid designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where low viscosity is required.

www.henkel-adhesives.com

Which, coincidentally, is green........

 

[Rifleman]

Which, coincidentally, is green........

Why yes it is, but don't forget that wicking Loctite 290 is green in color too.

 

[Dave 2000]

To the OP, if the race does start to spin and you do not hear it then the result could be a long brake pedal, keep this in mind for the furture, if you start getting brake issues.

regards

Dave

 

[LINUS]

I forget the price of new spindles, but I’d eaten one myself & so I ordered a fresh pair with the old style bronze bush over the newer needle bearing style.

I remember thinking it wasn’t horrible $$$.

I ditched the nasty one & threw the good in a complete spare spindle/birf/bearing assembly that rode in the back the 450.

Murphy’s law: by carrying a complete axle stub assembly, I never needed it.

 

[TerraNerva]

To the OP, if the race does start to spin and you do not hear it then the result could be a long brake pedal, keep this in mind for the furture, if you start getting brake issues.

Mine has always had a long brake pedal, not sure I'd know the difference But brakes are getting a complete overhaul, so will watch for that...assuming I ever short travel...

 

[Dave 2000]

You can have a perfect brake system but an unstable hub/disc assembly can cause the long pedal, at least you are aware of it.

regards

Dave