Looking to purchase this 97 with 240k miles. Anything of concern in these pictures? They sold it when I called to pull the trigger. On to the next one (1 Viewer)

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Problem is it's a few states away but after talking to him he's mentioned that the power seats don't work, tires need to be replaced and aligned, and antenna doesn't work (that's fine). No check engine lights. No concerning noises when driving or when idle. They just did a rear main seal and there are no oil leaks from what he told me. I'd love to call a shop to go look at so I'm thinking about doing that in order to seal the deal for me if y'all think it looks good.
 
You didn't give us much to look at. If you are having a mechanic look at have them do a compression test. Head gaskets are an expensive fix and with that mileage it will need it soon. Hopefully already done. Lockers? Price? Carfax clean? Did they replace the "Pesky Heater Hose" when they pulled the engine?
 
Does he have a complete maintenance list/record (written, not just hearsay....)?

At first glance, no issues. It's CA. No rust.

Does it tick, whine, growl, clunk, or ding?

Does he want $2500 for it?
 
You didn't give us much to look at. If you are having a mechanic look at have them do a compression test. Head gaskets are an expensive fix and with that mileage it will need it soon. Hopefully already done. Lockers? Price? Carfax clean? Did they replace the "Pesky Heater Hose" when they pulled the engine?
These were the pictures he gave me. No rust. Has lockers. Carfax has minor damage but no accident reported and many service records attached. I'll ask him about the heater hose. Thanks for your response and advice.
 
Does he have a complete maintenance list/record (written, not just hearsay....)?

At first glance, no issues. It's CA. No rust.

Does it tick, whine, growl, clunk, or ding?

Does he want $2500 for it?
I'll ask him about an actual list. My dealership does that, which helps a lot with clients peace of mind. He "said" no ticking or abnormal sounds when it's running. I'm going to call some of the shops around the dealership to see if I can pay someone to go check it out. They're asking $8k, I countered with $5500 but he declined my offer. Just gonna have to play the game.
 
Check to see what oil filter they are using and, under the truck doesn't look that bad. Looking at 20 plus years on the road.
 
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Check to see what oil filter they are using and, under the truck doesn't look that bad. Looking at 20 plus years on the road.
Just sent the guy this. he's gonna send pics tomorrow. Thanks for asking about this, it didnt even cross my mind.
 
The engine and undercarriage have recently been cleaned, not
a bad thing if it was done along with fixing all the usual leaks.

Ask the seller if he goes on this web site (MUD) and if he
has kept up with all the MUD recommended Preventive Maintenance.

Most people, when buying from someone other than a 80 forum member
who has already completed all the usual maintenance, will spend at least a few thousand getting everything caught up depending if they do it or pay someone else to do the work.
 
I just sent him a link to the one I'm selling. A shameless plug. :jimlad:
 
I don't see anything glaring. Of course, you'll need to plan on doing a complete baseline. I wouldn't bother him with asking about the PHH (heater hose) just figure on doing that and other things yourself. It would be good to know if the headgasket has ever been replaced (that would be a plus). Throttle cable could use replacing.

The radiator has been replaced with an all metal one (not original for that year model)...but necessarily a bad thing. Pretty much looks all original aside from that.
 
I agree with @eastoak on the rust. While it doesn't necessarily mean it's got rust issues I see rust on a lot of fasteners and in places that you typically won't see rust on a "rust-free" rig. I'd want more pictures of the undercarriage/frame and in particular of the rear axle and rear undercarriage. The 80s with relevant rust that I've seen always have rust on the rear axle or in that area even if rust is hit or miss on where else it may show up.
 
That's typical salty air surface rust, not much of an issue. If you like it, then make the best deal you can and buy it. You will have to fix stuff on anything in this price range. A truck that is fully sorted with lockers and no rust is creeping up on $10-12k+. If money is tight, then don't buy a 20 year old land cruiser. Head gaskets are not eminent failure points. Based on some of the aftermarket parts, belts, not a legacy mud owner.
 
If the body is solid (which in CA I am sure it is), runs decent, has lockers, and the paint isn't shot.

Buy it

Not much of I gamble there I 'spect.
 
Couple of things I would recommend you ask about, all rust related. The windshield surround can have problems and so can the space above the lifting half of the tailgate. And in the front corners of the rear-wheelwells. Even in California they use salt and if this truck has been up in the mountains for skiing that can take a real toll.

I'd also want a lot of photos of the interior. Its all solvable, but it is a real pain if things have gotten bad inside.

Also ask if he has tested the transfer case in low range. And does the diff lock light comes on when activated.

Oh, here's another: ask the seller to try and lift the drivers door up while it is open. If there is play in those hinges that is something you will want to replace.

Hope that helps!
 
Couple of things I would recommend you ask about, all rust related. The windshield surround can have problems and so can the space above the lifting half of the tailgate. And in the front corners of the rear-wheelwells. Even in California they use salt and if this truck has been up in the mountains for skiing that can take a real toll.

I'd also want a lot of photos of the interior. Its all solvable, but it is a real pain if things have gotten bad inside.

Also ask if he has tested the transfer case in low range. And does the diff lock light comes on when activated.

Oh, here's another: ask the seller to try and lift the drivers door up while it is open. If there is play in those hinges that is something you will want to replace.

Hope that helps!
Thanks man! I'll look into all these things.
 
Original hose clamps on the heater control valve. That will need replaced.
 

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