Looking to get a 100...need advise on local TX find

[BlueBoxFJ60]

Need some review and advice on a 100 I’m potentially looking at. I’ve been out of the LC game for a while but have been itching to get back in one. A 100 or 200 seems to be a good compromise with family needs and my own……..
I am not 100% ready yet but am still looking constantly for a good deal. This one popped up today and has me very interested.

Tell me what you guys think and/or concerns I should be on the lookout for.



Details from the seller:
2000 Toyota LC - 140k miles – $10,000 obo
*Clean Title in Hand, * Clean Carfax, NO ACCIDENTS, * Two Owner, Non-Smoker Car, Texas
only
* Receipts can be provided for all work done to this car (I have the stack of receipts of every service and modifications made to this car)
*No RUST!
Issues:
* Driver seat has a small tear (normal wear and tear)
* Top of the steering wheel - leather is worn out. Comes with steering wheel cover.
* Hood has some paint damage
* Small dent on the passenger side door (not noticeable until you look up close)
* Sunroof currently is not functional. If I fix before selling, the price will go up
* Timing Belt needs to be replaced in the near future.
* Tires need to be replaced in the near future
* Removed the 15A Haz-Horn fuse because car alarm would randomly go off in the middle of the night. Common Issue with the 100 series. One fix I read was the alarm can be disarmed manually and fuse can be put back in. (haven’t got time to do so)

 

[pnolanIH8MUD]

• Dual or single A/C? Dual is a big upgrade.
• Dial A/C or Combination Screen? Dial A/C provides options for stereo upgradability.
• My 2002 has been a great family vehicle while maintaining the dignity of not owning anything with the word mini in the prefix.
• The timing belt is about $1600
• The Horn fuse issue isn't something I've come across in my years of ownership. Factory alarm? Look at wiring, checking panels for any water damage
• Tires - $1200 BF Goodrich 285's on factor rims
• Suspension? Modified or stock? May be due for shocks.
• How are the brakes? Feel and vibration? Noise? Scraping?
• CV joint boots? Grease?
• Color of brake and power steering fluids? Any brake pull left or right?
• Any record of replacing ignition coil packs?
• With the sunroof, any musty or moldy smells? Signs of water in the headliner?

Just a few points to check

 

[ScubaJon]

first you can forget about fixing the sun roof. It is upwards of 1500 bucks to DIY and days of labor. and not even dealing with synchronizing the motors in it.

If you are willing to wrench on it it may be a decent deal. At 20 years old you will encounter problems and at 20 years old all the plastic connectors under the hood are fragile and very brittle. If you don't want to wrench on it yourself unless you have buckets of cash to dump into it don't even consider one.

In my book its overpriced by at least 2500 bucks.

 

[flintknapper]

Since you are right outside of Houston (same market where I bought mine) you will have plenty to look at if you will just be patient. The key to getting a 'good' one is to have CASH IN HAND and be willing to move quickly when a nicer one presents itself.

Don't overlook the LX470's that might come up for sale. When I was in the market...I was looking for a straight up Land Cruiser but after 8 months of devout searching, I found that MANY more LX470's were out there. Surprisingly (or maybe not) almost to a vehicle, they had fewer miles, were in better shape, had better maintenance records and were priced 1k-2k below what lesser Land Cruisers were going for.

We ended up buying a pristine (lady owned and driven) LX and have not regretted that decision. Not trying to sway you that direction, I still like the front end of a Land Cruiser better...but it might be an option for you.

Again, be ready to go and drive anything that pops up and move quickly when they do. I had several get away from me simply because I couldn't get down there the day they went on the market (I am 3 hrs. North of Houston). But you probably work there...so that is an advantage. The Austin market is also viable for you. The Dallas market is overpriced without exception, I wouldn't waste my time there.

Be sure to scrutinize each vehicle, make sure it has been a Texas vehicle (no rust) and that it has not been involved in the flooding you had there a few of years ago.

Good luck with your search.

Flint.

 

[BullElk]

No way I would do that deal

 

[slacker24-7]

I just helped a buddy buy a rust free 2000 for 9200 that had 180k with recent TB service 80% bfg ko2,s , and good maintaince, it had a couple minor dings but no big deal. The horn going off is something I haven’t heard of, that would concern me about electrical issues . The sunroof not working is something I wouldn’t worry about, it’s probably from lack of use anyway.
I agree that with needing tires and a timing belt service , it’s over priced

 

[TXSunDevil]

I would not touch that vehicle at that price. If you are in Houston you can get a direct flight anywhere. I would expand the search and plan on flying and driving home all in one day. I flew to Mississippi and drove mine back to South Texas in a day.

 

[jLB]

Are you looking for a turn key daily driver, or an extra vehicle to tinker with?

As already mentioned, if you have to have a functioning sunroof, it’s a labor intensive repair.

If you’re not doing the timing belt yourself, it’s a little expensive too.

I’ve never had this “common” horn issue (knock on wood). It could be water intrusion from the sunroof or a bad windshield replacement, and it would probably be my largest concern. The pulled fuse seems like a half assed attempt at solving the root issue as well.

Another concern for me would be the condition of the steering rack and front suspension. This can also end up being a little pricey.

Tires, might not be a bad thing if you want to change the tires anyway. If you just want to drive it, another pricey fix.

Steering wheel, seats, minor paint damage, probably par for the course.

When we were looking for my son’s 100 series, about 5 years ago and in your market area, a number of the “never in an accident” vehicles we looked at, had dents in every single body panel. Look up under the bumpers for any deformed metal.

In my opinion, with the stated issues, the price is probably a bit higher than I’d want to pay.

 

[BlueBoxFJ60]

I’ve never had this “common” horn issue (knock on wood). It could be water intrusion from the sunroof or a bad windshield replacement, and it would probably be my largest concern. The pulled fuse seems like a half assed attempt at solving the root issue as well.

Exactly my thoughts and the first red flag that hit me