Looking for Toyota Mini Truck Steering Box Adjustment

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For the life of me, I cannot find the FSM or any instructions on how to adjust the power steering version of the Mini Truck steering box. I have seen plenty of info and have the FSM on the non power steering version, but I am assuming the adjustment is not the same (due to manual vs power steering assist). Below from, the FSM - but I am wondering if there is a FSM for a 79-85 4x4 Tuck that outlines the steps for the power steering version.

Please correct me if it does not make a difference between the non and power steering version - I have a window this week to adjust on bench before I re-install.

Thanks for the help!

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Shoot, it's been awhile, but I recall adjusting the free play in my power steering mini truck box in the same manner as your image...
 
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RE: FSM - that's exactly how you do it. Don't adjust it for a zero-play condition in the 'middle' and then have it bind when you turn full lock (left or right). You won't get 100% of play out of the box, but the goal is to tighten up the middle a bit (where all the wear takes place) without making it so tight that it binds at the extremes. It's well worth making this adjustment.
 

pb4ugo

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B4 making any adjustment in the box, be sure to check out the tre's, the center arm adjustment and make sure it's tightly bolted to the frame, ubolts and bushings. Have someone shake the wheel back and forth while you're looking at the frt end componets. Also check your caster angle, if its has negative castor it can create a twitchy and loose feeling while driving.
 

hobbes

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Might scan this thread:

 

JDNs78FJ40

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I need to do this exact same thing. I also need to straighten my steering wheel so it's in the correct position when the wheels are pointed straight forward. So a guy on instagram do it by rotating the drag-link gar in CW or CCW. Please let me know if your adjustment helps with your "slop" in the steering wheel.
 
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B4 making any adjustment in the box, be sure to check out the tre's, the center arm adjustment and make sure it's tightly bolted to the frame, ubolts and bushings. Have someone shake the wheel back and forth while you're looking at the frt end componets. Also check your caster angle, if its has negative castor it can create a twitchy and loose feeling while driving.
Caster angle as it relates to the center line of the shock and wheel (negative meaning tha the center line is ahead of the wheel centerline). @pb4ugo
 

hobbes

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I also need to straighten my steering wheel so it's in the correct position when the wheels are pointed straight forward. So a guy on instagram do it by rotating the drag-link gar in CW or CCW. Please let me know if your adjustment helps with your "slop" in the steering wheel.
This is correct. Park your truck so the tires are pointed ahead. Loosen both clamps and rotate the drag link until the steering wheel is positioned as you like it. The FSM and Haynes manuals have the proper tape measure distances for all the steering gear lengths. Watch you clamp orientation. If you haven’t made this adjustment in awhile, hit the drag link threads with your favorite lube first.
 

pb4ugo

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@Last Flight Out, No, center line thru the upper and lower Trunion bearings. If the upper and lower trunion center line are perpendicular to the ground would be zero caster. If the upper is rotated forward(counterclockwise with frt of the vehicle pointing to the left) of the lower then that's negative caster(\). / would be positive castor. Positive caster offer less wander, tracks straight and the steering wheel will return to center.
 
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@pb4ugo
This is perfect - would I be able to use a magnetic angle finder (placed on top of the 4 bolts/top of hub; dont want to do a full strip down) to get a pretty close call to caster angle? I assume I am looking for somewhere around +1 caster (Ill look in FSM), but this is on stock suspension (new shocks, 31x10.5x15). I assume if I find it to say be more like -5 caster, then I have problems. I'll also check all joints/torques once I get that bastard steering box back and installed.
 

pb4ugo

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@pb4ugo
This is perfect - would I be able to use a magnetic angle finder (placed on top of the 4 bolts/top of hub; dont want to do a full strip down) to get a pretty close call to caster angle? I assume I am looking for somewhere around +1 caster (Ill look in FSM), but this is on stock suspension (new shocks, 31x10.5x15). I assume if I find it to say be more like -5 caster, then I have problems. I'll also check all joints/torques once I get that bastard steering box back and installed.
Yes, angle finder. I find using the lower trunion bearing cap is easier. Dont use the studs or nuts, they could be slightly off. You should be able to catch the edge next to the nuts so that the finder is on the plate. I think, FSM say 1* positive, a little more is usually better, especially with p/s. You'd be surprised what a couple of + degrees can do with drivability. Extended shackles can alter caster too. Check while parked on level ground and equal tire pressures.
 

pb4ugo

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If its off to the negative side, you can install steel caster shims between the axle and spring to rotate the axle. You need to find out what your caster is 1st and then see what your going to need if anything at all.
 
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If its off to the negative side, you can install steel caster shims between the axle and spring to rotate the axle. You need to find out what your caster is 1st and then see what your going to need if anything at all.
Final question @pb4ugo - is there a way I can adjust the steering box on bench or is it best installed and then test for firmness and optimal free-play? Its just easier to adjust on bench, but would have to turn the main steering shaft spline by hand with new rag joint and "feel" for that firmness and back off when it binds.
 

pb4ugo

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I'd probably install the box 1st, then see if anything more needs to be done. Was the box just rebuilt or is this a used box? Either way, I'd figure if it was rebuilt by a rebuilder or used, It was initially setup correctly at some point. A lot of slop in steering is usually because of the items I and others mentioned earlier.
 
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I'd probably install the box 1st, then see if anything more needs to be done. Was the box just rebuilt or is this a used box? Either way, I'd figure if it was rebuilt by a rebuilder or used, It was initially setup correctly at some point. A lot of slop in steering is usually because of the items I and others mentioned earlier.
@pb4ugo
This was a full rebuild (all seals, rings and bearings and careful check of sector shaft, etc) from West Texas Offroad (aka Redneck Ram) because PO installed a dodgy (spray and pray from another vendor) steering box (that was said to be rebuild). Justin at WTO will do what they do best with a good rebuild, checked and tested and center it all, etc. I have my pitman arm marked when I removed and will double check it all. Just wanted to have it all in front of me (all the info) before I install.
 

pb4ugo

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@pb4ugo
This was a full rebuild (all seals, rings and bearings and careful check of sector shaft, etc) from West Texas Offroad (aka Redneck Ram) because PO installed a dodgy (spray and pray from another vendor) steering box (that was said to be rebuild). Justin at WTO will do what they do best with a good rebuild, checked and tested and center it all, etc. I have my pitman arm marked when I removed and will double check it all. Just wanted to have it all in front of me (all the info) before I install.
I'd just install it. They probably have everything adjusted properly.
 
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@pb4ugo got the box back and really impressed with the results from the Rednecks in Texas. So now I am reinstalling it into the rig - spent about 1 hour by turning the steering shaft and counting over and over to see where the mid point was. What a nightmare....I think I got it centered... the sector shaft also lines up to my marks I made when I removed so feeling good on this front.

Question for you - I am now seeing this but the new ragjoint really does not sit as flush (the column plat that fits the ragjoint) as you would think. It is 100% lined up and on the splines nicely...seated exactly how my old rag joint was....in fact my old rag joint was also not seated completely flush form the column plate to the ragjoint. I have not tightened any bolts down to torque spec.

Thoughts?

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hobbes

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Mine was like that. I moved the steering column and trimmed just a touch of the firewall hole lip. Haven't had any problems. Also could be your body mounts if they are worn out.
 

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