Looking for Tips on Removing Overly Tight Oil Filter... (1 Viewer)

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psfpilot

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Jun 8, 2005
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The PO's lube shop must have tightened my oil filter with an impact wrench. :bang: I certainly wish I hadn't punched a screwdriver through the filter, else I'd have refilled it and driven it to a dealership to let them figure it out.

I have tried a strap filter wrench with an attached 1/2"x16" breaker bar. I have tried to punch it in a circular motion with a brass drift and a small sledge hammer. I'm planning my next move, and the only thing I can think of at the moment is to painstakingly disassemble the filter with the cutting wheel on my Dremel tool.

Penny for your thoughts?
 
Bigger muscles. :D


First, you may want to take the battery tray out for better access/light.

Then you might want to try a bigger rod of some type through the screwdriver hole with leverage. You might try to use your strap wrench at the same time. It would be good if you could get a second pair of hands from above while you work from below.
 
grab it with a piece of sandpaper and turn it, works like a charm.
 
Well, personally I have found the easiest way to remove the oil filter on the 80 series is to first un-bolt the power-steering reservoir and just shove it out of the way. No need to un-hock any of the lines.

Then using a pair of these bad jacksons

Oil Filter Pliers @ Channellock

I clamp on to the filter with a pair of those bad boys and let r' buck.

It works for me and it may help you out a bit.
 
psfpilot said:
The PO's lube shop must have tightened my oil filter with an impact wrench. :bang: I certainly wish I hadn't punched a screwdriver through the filter, else I'd have refilled it and driven it to a dealership to let them figure it out.

I have tried a strap filter wrench with an attached 1/2"x16" breaker bar. I have tried to punch it in a circular motion with a brass drift and a small sledge hammer. I'm planning my next move, and the only thing I can think of at the moment is to painstakingly disassemble the filter with the cutting wheel on my Dremel tool.

Penny for your thoughts?
Click to expand...


If all else fails, I bought these at a Knecht's Auto parts store (If you don't have, try Checker or even NAPA). They have the # CTA2534 stamped on them, their like a big pair of channel locks, but they were sold specifically for removing oil filters. I don't know the brand name but they're made in Taiwan. HTH (They're about 12" long when closed)



110_1012.jpg
 
Have you tried an oil filter socket? You can attach your socket wrench on the other end. I picked mine up at Advance Auto.

41JaZw3JDvL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


Oh, and ummm, just stating the obvious but lefty-loosy righty-tighty! :grinpimp:
 
I'd go get those pliers above, or since the filter's trashed I'd get a tool my brother has which comes in handy for a huge number of things. Get a huge pair of channel lock pliers and mash the filter flat enough to get those on it and I'm sure it will easily move them - I think they're also at least a foot long for plenty of leverage. With these, even if it turns into a torn flattened filter you'll be able to grab SOMETHING with them and have massive crunch power and big leverage. Plus at the end you have a versatile tool where the filter pliers you'll never use again. Because you're going to do your own oil changes anyhow and hand tighten them properly, eh?

DougM
 
Working at a shop for a few years I have ran in to a few that none of the above suggestions would work and I have all of those types of wrenches shown. The next step is to cut the canister portion off to the solid base then strike that with a brass & encourage the brass part-drift. Never had one that didn't move by the second strike. Good luck.
 
I feel your pain, its just a filter right? To make a long story short, awhile back my wife bought a 97 Ford Escort(in 97) and it had 2000 miles on it. We were hours away from taking a road trip in the new car and I thought "why not change the oil early". The threads on the filter were continuous and wouldnt let the filter spin off, just would spin and spin. Faulty filter. Hours later, bloody knuckles,and cuts all over me from the forearm down I got it off. Piece by itty bitty piece, with tin snips, and the sort. Took the remains to Ford and they couldnt believe it and gave me a new filter. I now use a filter wrench thats looks like a claw and attaches to a 3/8 ratchet. It adjusts to fit all different sizes and the harder you turn, the harder it clamps onto the filter. Good luck man.
 
Lefty Loosey :hillbilly:
 
Spider wrench like this has never failed me
Click to expand...
X2

Tried them all ... the most dependable is the "spider wrench" - adapts to different sizes. It is a little fiddly to get set up but it is satisfyingly consistent.

Not for use when installing though ... clean dry bare hands and a clean dry filter are all you need for tightening - don't use a tool.
 
More wrist curls...pump up the forearms...:flipoff2:
 
Once the base is distorted by bending the filter (screwdriver)against the mounting surface on the block, it may increase the resistance to turning, locking it in place against the threads.

I go up from underneath with this filter wrench to R&R the filter.

Kinda neat collection of filter wrench photos building here..:p
20081120_0231.jpg
 
livinoffroad said:
Once the base is distorted by bending the filter (screwdriver)against the mounting surface on the block, it may increase the resistance to turning, locking it in place against the threads.

I go up from underneath with this filter wrench to R&R the filter.

Kinda neat collection of filter wrench photos building here..:p
Click to expand...

This is what I use from underneath too. But I doubt this would be any better than what psfpilot has already tried.
 
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