Looking for some collective wisdom re: doing my own major service on my 97LX (2 Viewers)

[Dirt Ferguson]

My LX

1997, 266K miles, not my DD
Previous owner was a well known MUD member, took great care of the LX. He was friends with Joey when they both lived in SoCal.
When he sold it to me, he acknowledged that there was a HG leak at one point and he used Barr's to band aid the leak.
Since the sale of the LX to me in January 2021, the truck has run well. I just came back from a weekend in the Eastern Sierra. 6.5 hour drive each way, multiple mountain passes in both directions. LX drove great. I love this rig.

About me:

I have replaced the following engine parts, on my own:

Radiator, fan shroud, coolant hoses, overflow res, thermostat and o rings, heater valve, oil pump o-ring, front main seal, fuel pressure regulator, belts, starter, battery cables
I would consider myself a 2 banana mechanic (?)
I am a visual learner and I am good at following directions.
I have removed the VC, replaced the speed sensor and all kinds of worn out exterior trim pieces. I also added a DeltaVS panhard bracket.
Switched out all fluids multiple times.

I know with the compromised HG, the Barr's is not a long term solution. I have watched the OTRAMM HG videos, the NKP videos, and I have the FSM. I've read the whole Jorge thread, what a journey that kid went through...

I have a small, enclosed 2 car garage to work in and starting on 6/15 my wife is leaving for 6 weeks.

I could potentially pay someone with more experience, tools and time than me to do the HG and all the other while you're in there items, but I also see the value in doing the work myself, learning about the LX in the process. I would definitely need to invest in some tools I don't currently have and rely on the past experiences of all of you, as well as the search function .

It would be a bummer to have the LX down and out during prime camping season, but being able to come home from work and put a few hours of work into every night would be a huge advantage. With my wife gone I can boot her X5 idrive out of the garage (where it charges at night).

I have 90% of the parts already from Joey (HG kit, oil cooler kit, valve cover kit, new plugs, new plug wires) I also have a new wiring harness to install.

I talked with another MUD member who has a side business wrenching on 80s in N California about doing this work and he quoted me $5K, using my parts.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't consider doing this myself? Working in my small garage is going to be challenging, but not impossible.

Thanks,
Dirt

 

[mudgudgeon]

OTTRAM videos have everything you need, along with the FSM.
It's an outstanding guide IMO.

Sounds like you've gone deeper than 2 bananas before?
(How many bananas are there on the banana scale anyways??)

2 car garage is ample space. Provided its not already packed.

I've done HG a couple of times in apartment garages. Having a spare table/ bench to layout and sort parts on helps a lot.

 

[bhsdriller]

Send it
Do everything yourself except any machining/valve work on the head.

 

[BILT4ME]

Do it yourself.

Buy a quality torque wrench or two.

You can get good deals on snap-on units on fleabay.

 

[inkpot]

Do you have a friend or 2 that can help? Some tasks are much easier with 4 hands. Do you have an engine picker to lift off/place the head? Do you know a good machine shop to do the head work?

 

[Devils Paw 80]

My LX

1997, 266K miles, not my DD
Previous owner was a well known MUD member, took great care of the LX....

About me:

I have replaced the following engine parts, on my own:

Radiator, fan shroud, coolant hoses, overflow I could potentially pay someone with more experience, tools and time than me to do the HG ...I talked with another MUD member who has a side business wrenching on 80s in N California about doing this work and he quoted me $5K, using my parts.


Thanks,
Dirt

PO took great care, yet you’ve replaced just about everything under the hood. What did he do besides adding stop leak to the radiator?
$5K sounds really high. I asked a retired local Toyota mechanic what he’d charge and his figure was $1.5K.
Sounds like you will be going for it. Bravo, and keep us posted.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Sounds like you can do the work, questions that you should ask yourself.
- is your garage tall enough to pluck the head with a cherry picker?
- do you have a cherry picker?
- is the head getting machined and new valve guide seals?
- do you have a helper to install the head? Not necessary but makes it very convenient and helpful to line it all up.
- do you have all the parts necessary?
- do you have the tools?
I have done this job only one time in the truck and 4 times out of the truck. I would pull the motor if I had to do it again. That being said cleaning all the bars stop leak out of the system is a must and you probably will need to replace the whole cooling system radiator, water pump, t stat, hoses and completely flush the heater core. This is not a 5k side job if you’re paying that much get a warranty. You can do this we can help guide you but you need to be honest with yourself about what you can do and that you have all the parts and tools to get the job done. Not trying to discourage you just being objective.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

Do you have a friend or 2 that can help? Some tasks are much easier with 4 hands. Do you have an engine picker to lift off/place the head? Do you know a good machine shop to do the head work?

Friends are plenty, thankful for that. A few of them are even strong.

Sounds like you can do the work, questions that you should ask yourself.
- is your garage tall enough to pluck the head with a cherry picker?
- do you have a cherry picker?
- is the head getting machined and new valve guide seals?
- do you have a helper to install the head? Not necessary but makes it very convenient and helpful to line it all up.
- do you have all the parts necessary?
- do you have the tools?
I have done this job only one time in the truck and 4 times out of the truck. I would pull the motor if I had to do it again. That being said cleaning all the bars stop leak out of the system is a must and you probably will need to replace the whole cooling system radiator, water pump, t stat, hoses and completely flush the heater core. This is not a 5k side job if you’re paying that much get a warranty. You can do this we can help guide you but you need to be honest with yourself about what you can do and that you have all the parts and tools to get the job done. Not trying to discourage you just being objective.

After watching the OTRAMM vid vs the Jorge thread and the NKP vids, pulling the motor would be preferred, but that is not my lot in this round.

I have already replaced the radiator, coolant hoses, therm, heater control valve, etc.

Do it yourself.

Buy a quality torque wrench or two.

@BILT4ME I am a bit of a noob, however I do have a few quality torque wrenches.

Regarding tools, I need a few things like a set of 12 point sockets, a long handle flex head 3/8 and 1/2 socket wrench. I'm mostly looking for stuff from either Snap On, SK and Blue Point. What's the difference between SO and BP? One made in US vs CHINA?

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

Post #500, happy to make it in what I'm hoping will be a good, useful thread.

 

[peneumbra2]

Why don't you have your wife do it? Instead of leaving for 6 weeks she could do the repairs so you won't miss the summer season.

If i want something done on my 80-series, I just tell my wench to get to work and-----

Oww! Ahhh! OWWWWW!! Just kidding, Sweetheart!

 

[dallen341]

IMO leave motor in. Pull head using a come-along from rafters or block and tackle. Same to lower back onto the block.

FSM has all the info you need to walk you thru it.

take the head to Engine Part Machine in South Gate. They do all machining for Cabe Toyota in Long Beach. Good work and reasonable. Ask for Efrain 323-569-3035. Take the valve guide seals from the HG kit with you.

 

[dallen341]

Oops…thought I read S. Cal. I see that you are in N. Cal. Don’t have a shop recommendation for you

 

[cruiserdan]

As the belt-and-suspenders guy I am, I suggest you position the vehicle in the best location to be able to remove major engine components. Or, to be able to tow the carcass to a mechanic if you hit a snag that you can't handle. There is nothing worse than getting waist-deep in an engine job in a one-car garage with the vehicle front end opposite the garage door.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, you can remove the head by hand (it's not that heavy, once you get intakes and cam out); it's getting it back in you need lifting help for - you don't want to gouge the new headgasket. Unless the engine's out.

You need to plan on what to do with all that Barr's Leaks gunk clogging your water jacket. It will be in the head and the engine, and the water pump...

I agree with Dan, back the truck in and pull the engine. You'll be money ahead and it'll be faster.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

You need to plan on what to do with all that Barr's Leaks gunk clogging your water jacket. It will be in the head and the engine, and the water pump...

I have read that was the case with this stuff in the past, but the more modern formulations do not clog up the jackets. Anyone out there have any direct experience with this?

When I replaced the thermostat, coolant hoses, radiator and heater control valve I did not see any evidence of hardened HG sealant present.

 

[Malleus]

My experience is from attempting to rehabilitate a 30 year old Kawasaki lawn tractor engine last year. That crap was everywhere in the jacket. I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

@Malleus right, and who knows when the HG sealant was used on the poor lawn trimmer.

Also, just for everyone's knowledge, I do not have any overheating issues today. The LX is running great. It's almost a shame to think I'm about to tear into it, but I've talked with a few people around here that have encouraged me to get the job done now so I don't suffer later.

 

[Kernal]

A 95 model I bought a few years ago (that the seller, not on Mud, said he would "drive it to Alaska tomorrow") had dumped block/HG sealer into the cooling system (undisclosed by the seller), likely more than one bottle. I don't know which brand was used.

That sheit completely coated the internal surfaces of every hose, pipe, the radiator, the head, the block, oil cooler, etc,etc,etc. A few smaller bypass pipes were completely blocked with fragments of the sealer. That may have been partly due to my attempts to clean it out before pulling the head using a few cooling system cleaners which loosened some of the kerapp which then floated around in the system plugging the smaller passageways.

So maybe it depends on what brand of block sealer and how much was used???

Either way, be prepared to replace every water hose and to clean out the smaller water coolant/bypass pipes.

I've posted these before but this is for those who haven't seen it. Hopefully you won't find this (block sealer added to a rusty system). Click photos twice to magnify.

 

[Godwin]

As the belt-and-suspenders guy I am, I suggest you position the vehicle in the best location to be able to remove major engine components. Or, to be able to tow the carcass to a mechanic if you hit a snag that you can't handle. There is nothing worse than getting waist-deep in an engine job in a one-car garage with the vehicle front end opposite the garage door.

Sage advice that can only come from years of experience, and a metric butt load of mistakes.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

A 95 model I bought a few years ago (that the seller, not on Mud, said he would "drive it to Alaska tomorrow") had dumped block/HG sealer into the cooling system (undisclosed by the seller), likely more than one bottle. I don't know which brand was used.

That sheit completely coated the internal surfaces of every hose, pipe, the radiator, the head, the block, oil cooler, etc,etc,etc. A few smaller bypass pipes were completely blocked with fragments of the sealer. That may have been partly due to my attempts to clean it out before pulling the head using a few cooling system cleaners which loosened some of the kerapp which then floated around in the system plugging the smaller passageways.

@Kernal thanks, and noted.

As I mentioned, I have already replaced the radiator (due to breaking the f'ing nipple on the top) all the coolant hoses, thermo, heater control valve and I saw no evidence or any HG sealant build up in any of those pieces I replaced. I guess once I get the oil cooler face plate off, more will be revealed.

Thanks for your input, that situation you had on your hands above looks nasty.

"I'd drive it Alaska tomorrow!" LOL.