Looking for help on replacing my head gasket.

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by fjman, Jul 12, 2005.

  1. fjman

    fjman

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    Hi all, After the fireworks on 4th of july, my lc left a huge smoke bomb in the parking lot. My head gaskets shot and shes just sitting there waiting for help. Is there a tutorial on head gasket replacement (I can't find one) or is my shop manual the best I'm gonna find. I've never messed with the valves or internal parts up to this point. If someone near Northern VA would like to make some cash, I would be more than glad to help.... I'm new here but thanks in advance, I've used this site for a long time, just never posted. Thanks, ANdrew
     
  2. swank60

    swank60

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    The FSM will be your best guide. Just follow the instructions closely. Be sure to loosen all of the head nuts in the order perscribed by the manual.

    For a replacement gasket, only use OEM. Head to your local toyota dealer to get the gaskets, or make your life easy and contact CruiserDan here on the board - he works at a dealership in ABQ, NM, and he'll set you up with everything you need: even stuff you don't know you need.

    Here's how to contact him: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17873

    It's a big job, but mostly because of the heavy lifting. I've never pulled the head on my 60, but I've done it on other vehicles. Mark all of your vac lines, organize everything you take off the truck (bolts and nuts in marked zip-lock baggies, etc) and you'll do fine. If you really get into it, take detailed digital photos before you start to pull it apart so you'll have yet another ref guide. (if you don't have the FSM for the emissions stuff, get that too. You don't want to mess up that system by mixing up the vac lines when you put it all back together)

    Good luck and welcome to the board!
     
  3. mj1015

    mj1015

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    Got a torque wrench?
     
  4. fjman

    fjman

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    actually I hae to go buy one tommorrow. Other than that, Wrenches, sockets, screw drivers, basic tools should be fine right? If I want to get the head tested for cracks, do I have to totally disassemble it? I don't have to pull it apart to change the gasket, correct? Afterwards, do all the valves have to be readjusted or does it just drop right back in. I am still trying to figue out the best way to lift a 110# chunk of iron out of the engine bay!!! :) Thank you for the quick responses, help on all levels is greatly appreciated. Andrew
     
  5. chitown40

    chitown40

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    I used the SOR head gasket kit (comes with new manifold gaskets, water inlet/outlet gaskets, head gasket, valve cover gasket, etc). I've put on about 2-3k with no problems at all. I only had the Haynes manual when I pulled mine apart, and it was pretty decent. The emissions FSM, as swank60 said, is the most valuable tool you can get. It's only like $10-15 from CDan. Important tools to have, ratcheting wrenches, a good socket set, a bunch of different size extensions and swivels, and some small 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm wrenches. While you have the manifolds off, take them to a machine shop to get planed and cleaned, and you might as well have the head rebuilt while it's off. My local shop charged me $380 to rebuild the head and to clean, plane, and reassemble the manifolds. That included one or two new valves. Also if the carb if gummed up pretty good, might want to send it off to Jim C. or rebuild it yourself. I think they're pretty easy to rebuild, but others have shyed away from doing it themselves. If you take your time and look at the manuals, it'll be a piece of cake. According to the Haynes manual, you have to disconnect most of thr accessories running off the fan belts... you really don't have to. Just take off what is connected to the head and manifolds or if something is in your way. Get a buddy to help you lift out the head and reinstall the head so you don't mess up the new gasket. Good luck. If I was closer, I'd help ya.

    Rob
     
  6. chitown40

    chitown40

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    You must've sneaked this post in during my long rant. Valves will need to be adjusted, since you'll be removing the entire valve train to get the head off. I used a couple of bolts screwed into the head an then took some heavy household wire and made a handle between the bolts so I could lift the head off. A local machine shop can test the head and rebuilt it for ya if necessary. Make sure the oil plug by cylinder #5 is set into the head properly or it may leak oil from it. You can get a enw one from CDan for about a buck or two and the machine shop can set it in for ya after they check the head.
     
  7. fjman

    fjman

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    yeah, I think I'm mostly concerned w/ my ability to readjust everything once its back on. It really is a shame that there aren't any good tutorials online. Chitown, thank you very much for the advice. This is definately testing my ability (and last nerve) Andrew
     
  8. fjman

    fjman

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    If it goes well (please go well) maybe I'll have to break it all down again and make my own tutorial!
     
  9. NocalFJ60

    NocalFJ60

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    I lifted my head out on my own and sit it on the floor of my garage. It is not super heavy just ackward. I would grab a friend though just to be safe. You will want help when reinstalling it slowly to make sure its aligned on the gasket properly.

    You don't need a tutorial. Just take your time and ask any questions you have on here.

    Goodluck
     
  10. fjman

    fjman

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    will do, I get the impression it's more straightforward than I thought. I'll keep you posted of any issues I run into. Might get a used head from cruiserparts as a back up incase the one in there doesn't check out. Thanks everyone. What a warm welcome!
     
  11. chitown40

    chitown40

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    As long as your head isn't cracked, you can always rebuild it. Unless you paid for the $$ rebuilt head from cruiserparts, I'd just rebuild yours for about the same or less dough.
     
  12. djanis99

    djanis99

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    I would be willing to help you this weekend if you need it. I just did

    my head gasket last weekend. I have all of the tools and live in Baltimore.

    Dave
     
  13. fjman

    fjman

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    djanis99, I'll send you a private message but I won't have the gaskets until Monday. If we could set something up, that would be really great. I am concerned that the head is bad since the previous owner had the top end rebuilt and apparently the "cracks in the head were repaired". I guess welded. So the top end was rebuilt only maybe 40 - 45k back and it seems really early for this. Plus I've had to add coolant every 1 -3 weeks since I bought it 2+ yrs ago ( radiator, waterpump, and hoses have all been replaced too) James at 4X4 connection in Winchester suggested that i could still have a small crack thats leaking. Is it normal to just get the head repaired? Thanks again
     
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