Looking for good write-up on replacing a rear sill

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My rear sill is totally rusted through and will need to be replaced one of these days. Can anyone point me to a good write-up on how this is done?
 
Nothing to it really. Cut the old one out and weld in the new one. Just be sure and have the striker reference in the correct location ( if applicable)
 
Thanks for the links, now I understand what's involved.

Now, a stupid newb question: what is the sill channel? Is that the sheet metal skin that covers the center portion of the sill, between the two uprights?
 
This is how I patched one up with junk I had laying around the shop. It was so far gone that I gave the sill one tap on each end with a ball peen and removed it.

2Slow Gallery :: Kiwi BJ42

kiwi42_004.sized.jpg


kiwi42_094.sized.jpg
 
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I don't have pics of the process but IIRC I think I used 2" thin walled square tube and some 1/2" flatbar to replicate the shape. The sizes could be different. I just can't remember. Anyway it was what I had lying around. Mine wasn't even close to as bad as lownebrau's.
 
On at least some of the 40s the sill is a c-channell with the open side facing forward and reinforcement pieces inside the channel where it bolts to the frame. The left and right ends are a curved "horn" (also a c-channel) that curves around inside the quarter panel. The stock spare tire carrier bolts to this horn.

See SOR parts catalogue p/n 115-75 for a good picture of a stock style replacement part (they call it a rear body panel)
 
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On at least some of the 40s the sill is a c-channell with the open side facing forward and reinforcement pieces inside the channel where it bolts to the frame. The left and right ends are a curved "horn" (also a c-channel) that curves around inside the quarter panel.

Was the C-channel used in all factory sills? The rear sill on my 40- a '70- is made out of square tubing (although the horns are a c-channel). Does this mean that the sill has already been replaced before?
 
I would say yes.
 
I used 2"x4" .25 wall stock for the main section and replicated the wheel well supports with galv sheet metal (fully boxed so as not to trap mud and water as the original design). I don't have a writeup but a ton of pics are here:

Picasa Web Albums - mweller - FJ40 Metal/Bo...

The 4" stock gives you something to weld the bed back to. I drilled and tapped the 2x4 for the body mounts (which I fabbed out of a urethane boat roller, $6 from walmart). Let me know if you have any questions because I know this can be clear as mud.


:beer: Ramon
 
I also used 2 x 4 tubing. Sealed the ends, made the 'horns' from 10 ga sheet with reinforcements, and welded studs to the bottom of the tube to secure it to the frame with the body mounts.

It will outlast the rest of the body and me. :D

Rear Sill Replacement <<<<< This is a link! Click it!
 

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