Looking for Engine Rebuild/ Tranny Shop in Southeast (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
92
Location
Hattiesburg, MS
Much to my dismay, I’ve exhausted my searching abilities via Forum and google and am resorting to this.

I am located in Hattiesburg, MS and I’m looking for a reputable shop(s) in the area. I’m not opposed to driving to LA, AL, FL, or TN if needed.

I have a late May/1975, FJ40 w/ original 2F as far as I can tell. My dad has owned it since 1998 and I’m trying to bring it back to life.
I’ve been in the process of breaking the engine down to replace oil pan seal, rear main, timing chain gasket, and a few others things. However, I decided to look into the possibility of pulling entire engine and transmission to have rebuilt.

I’m handy with a lot of things, but engine/tranny rebuild is above my skill and tool level.

Thanks for any input guys.
Let me know what info I left out, because I’m sure there are questions to be asked about it.
 
Much to my dismay, I’ve exhausted my searching abilities via Forum and google and am resorting to this.

I am located in Hattiesburg, MS and I’m looking for a reputable shop(s) in the area. I’m not opposed to driving to LA, AL, FL, or TN if needed.

I have a late May/1975, FJ40 w/ original 2F as far as I can tell. My dad has owned it since 1998 and I’m trying to bring it back to life.
I’ve been in the process of breaking the engine down to replace oil pan seal, rear main, timing chain gasket, and a few others things. However, I decided to look into the possibility of pulling entire engine and transmission to have rebuilt.

I’m handy with a lot of things, but engine/tranny rebuild is above my skill and tool level.

Thanks for any input guys.
Let me know what info I left out, because I’m sure there are questions to be asked about it.


If it’s not broken then don’t fix it.

In other words if the engine is running and not burning oil do an external overhaul.

I did a new 2F last year in my FJ60 and with no labor costs I spent about $5500 on it. 2F rebuild was $3200 of that.

We had a good rebuilder here in Jackson but he completely drove off the tracks. He’s had one of my motors a year in August.

Fred at http://bedrockcustomauto.com/
Did some work on my friend Miles Smith’s 40 in Hattiesburg. He’s legit. Talk to them about a local machine shop.

Also come see us at 49Tire August 7 for the CottonLand Cruisers meeting. @USMC22 comes up from Hattiesburg every month.
 
Ok so here’s an update on the rebuild.

For now, I’ve decided to pull the transmission/transfer case and have it overhauled by Aamco. They are actually going to allow me to source and order parts they will need so that will save me quite a bit.

I have broken everything down to the rear of the block for now.
Clutch, rear main seal and pilot bearing has been pulled.
The flywheel will be resurfaced tomorrow (8/28) and I’ll be working on cleaning up the back end and getting the main seal back in.
Pilot bearing may be a bugger to get back in, but I’ll figure out a way.

The side cover gasket will be replaced also when I get to it. I haven’t even broken into that side of it.
 
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Without a bellhousing, what’s holding the back of your engine up?
 
I have never seen a clutch disc crack like that. What happened?
 
Before you complete your shopping list for the trans and transfer case, you should have them completely torn down. There are often ‘unanticipated’ parts needed, like the output shaft, input gear, shift fork, etc that are not part of standard rebuild kits. I offer package deals on those kind of things.
 
No idea how old that clutch plate is. I guess rough use and Lack of maintenance happened to it.
I have a jack under the back of the engine now, but the exhaust holds it solid, but only as a last resort.
I haven’t ordered any parts for the transmission as of yet, I assume it will need some serious TLC. But I will absolutely check out your kits!
 
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So I believe I misdiagnosed my Rear Main Seal leak and it is actually the rear oil galley plug weeping. I’m wanting to tap and plug it but I haven’t found a thread with the right size tap info.

Any of y’all have those numbers?
And would you agree with what I’m thinking?
 
The plug circled in red I don`t believe is threaded if I remember it is just like a freeze plug. Just knock it out and tap a new plug in.
JP
 
So in my “free time” I’ve gotten the transmission/transfer case fully rebuilt, the e-brake rebuilt and functional for the first time since I’ve had the truck.

Everything is in and running smoothly. My only issue that I’ve found is oil weeping through the propeller stud bolt holes on the e-brake drum.

The shaft of the drum was pretty worn and grooved so I put on a speedi sleeve. Something is obviously a mess since there is oil weeping through those holes. I haven’t torn it back down to see what the issue is. I would think that oil would be dripping from the bottom of the drum instead of the stud holes.

Before I drain the transfer case and get back into it, do y’all have any suggestions?
I’ll attach pics when I get home
 
Oil is coming down the spline of the output shaft and into the cavity behind the yoke of the driveshaft. It is a common practice on reinstalling the drum to coat the flatwasher behind the tailshaft locknut with sealant to keep the oil from coming out. @RAGINGMATT posted a good pic of this a few months back. Maybe he can find the thread he put it in.
 
Ahhh ok! That makes sense! I didn’t put any sealant on the washer/nut.
So it’s not filling my brake drum. That’s at least comforting.
But I’ll still need to drain and degrease to seal it up.
 
My mechanic is almost finished with my 2F but has run into the oil pump issue. There is some scoring on the bottom plate and wear on the main gear.

Does anyone have recommendations on how to manage this?
The only one I’ve found is on SOR and haven’t found any kits/gears.

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No worries, we upgraded to the next gen oil pump and the aisin on amazon was $68 compared to SOR $500 for a rebuilt one. Granted, we had to trim the baffles in the oil pan pretty severely, but that is a non-issue.
 

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