Looking for advice for reattaching rear spring plates (1 Viewer)

[La Crosse FJ fan]

I'm starting my first frame off restoration and had to remove the rusted out rear spring plates. I got a replacement set and bolted it at the 5 previous rivet holes with grade 8 hardware. Is this strong enough, or should I also have it welded. I don't have welding skills, but a local guy will come out for $75 an hour, which seems pretty reasonable.

Anyone have some advice?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Define "rear spring plate."

Do you mean a spring hangar (attached to the frame?) I wouldn't feel bad if they were bolted with Grade 8 hardware, loctite'd, and torqued. But I would also weld them, because my welder takes about two seconds to wheel over to the truck.

Dan

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Depends somewhat on what you intend to use it for - you would PROBABLY be OK if you were using it for road driving only, but why risk it? I would absolutely weld it and rivet it, if it was my truck.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I have a great welder who works for $40. Look around.

 

[La Crosse FJ fan]

Thanks for the responses, I should know by now to always err on the side of caution.

Yes, it's the rear spring hangers. My old ones were rusted through on the plates.

$40 seems like a bargain, I probably should specify that the $75/hr was him coming to me. I think I'll call around tho.

Thanks again.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Bolt it together than drive it over and get it welded it wouldn't be any worries for that and save some coin

 

[snaggletto]

I will soon be facing a similar issue. However, I will need to replace the frame gussets also. I've always read that the riveted flexy frame was a strong point of the 40's. For street use it's not worth mentioning, but for off road, I would do fewer welds and let the frame move around a little. Or maybe I'm just flat out wrong.

If you choose not to weld, maybe safety wire the nuts and bolts. I think that would be as good as the original rivets... Just thinking out loud here.

 

[BigAland4Gals]

I to am replacing the rear gusset plates and hangers. I am using my front hangers since I am doing a spring reversal (read about this, it makes alot of sense) and will not use them. I think they are shorter than the rears, but they will work as long as the spring distance is correct. 42 1/8 inches IIRC. I bolted the hangers to the plates (which are thicker gauge) for proper alignment. Then I welded all the way around the hangers, took out the bolts and welded in the holes. I will attach the hanger and gusset with grade 8 bolts and lock washers. If you plan on keeping your 40 or continue your restore you should really consider buying a coil/reel welder. I have a lincoln electric 125 wire welder. plugs into a 120 outlet and .35 wire on E will weld anything I need to.

 

[screaminsavage]

I can't recomend enough that you buy yourself a welder. I got a little 120V miller mig for $400 used. Now I just dont know how i ever lived without one. Don't worry about knowing how to use it, spend a couple hours on you tube and a bunch more with some scrap metal in the garage and you'll be good to go.

 

[vfrer]

I replaced the rear hangers and the rear gussets and just used 3/8" grade 8 hardware at all of the locations where rivets were. I have driven and wheeled my rig pretty good for about 8 years like that and it is perfectly fine. I checked the torque on the the bolts a couple of times but they were still tight so I don't even think about it anymore. I think that the grade 8 hardware is significantly stronger than the stock rivets. I see no need for welding. Just my $.02...

Eric

 

[La Crosse FJ fan]

Thanks for the time guys, I went ahead and got it welded. Local guy came out to weld it for me. I did the prep work and he only charged $40. Maybe I'll save up for a welder...here's a before and after pic