Looking at buying a 1983 60 wagon 4cyl turbo ..... walk me through it! (1 Viewer)

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May 25, 2018
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Yukon
I am new to Diesel engines. This beast originated in Europe, has been parked for about two years. I am charging the batteries, and will try to start it. I am wondering if the fuel system should be 'bled' 1st? Would the engine be a 13B-T? I am told it has 700 000km's, and this is the 3rd engine with less than 100 000 on it. I will update as I have time and if I make any progress. I am hoping for a daily driver :)

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Nice Find. You'll have to tell us whether its a 13B-T... I don't think it would have come with one originally, but someone could have put one in...
Or more likely it could be an aftermarket turbo on a 3B. Is the Turbo air cross pipe intake marked Toyota?
Why was it parked?
If it needs to be "bled", you will know 'cause it didn't start with fresh batteries.
There are lots of threads on MUD about people starting diesels that have been sitting for a while- 2 years isn't particularly excessive compared to some. As long as no water or other contaminants got in the fuel, it should still be OK...
 
Not a bad looking truck have a good look around the roof they rust out around the gutter area. It may not need any bleeding to fire up but it will need a good glow depending on what engine is fitted. As above take some photo's of the engine bay so we know what you have.
 
I wouldnt bother bleeding it but I would buy few filters in case they block up. If the batteries are cranking and still wont start, then a bleed would be the next step.
Thats a nice looking body for an 83, it must have been in south of europe. I expect its a 4sp?
The engine type is stamped on the block in 50mm letters just below the head gasket. I forget which side.
 
Installed the batteries and am just getting clicking. I need to go back tonight with a friend to help pin it down. One of the 'clicks' is the item in the picture below, above the drivers fender, that my finger is pointing at. I'm not sure there is not an issue with a security system. Appears to be a 3B with an aftermarket turbo. What are hose lines going into the alternator?!

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I think thats the starter relay you are pointing to. They are on the front right hand inside fender. Try cleaning the wire connections

The hoses into the alternator are to the vacuum pump which provides vacuum for the brakes , aircon fast idle up and t/case shifting if you have them.
Diesels dont make that much vacuum at the mainfold so they have either a pump on the alternator or built onto the engine.

I might be mistaken, but the engine looks like the later version 3B ll? due to the valve cover. It could be out of a Toyota truck or bus.
It would be nice if it had the built in vacuum pump and power steering pump like 1HZ etc
 
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Thanks Roscoe! Really don't know deisels and those lines looked like a joke to me :). So looked a little further tonight, meter on the batteries and turn the key on, no change in voltage so I assume the glow plugs are not 'lighting'. I jumped the starter solenoid (the one down on the starter) and the engine cranked. I just cranked it for about two seconds. I am thinking it is possible that whatever is thwarting the starter may also be effecting the glow plugs, and could also keep the fuel shut off shut (I am assuming that there is a fuel cut that turns the engine off?) I am hoping that I can a) bypass the fuel cutoff b) jump the glow plug relay c) jump the starter and hopefully it will start. I would like to get it to my house so I can work on it at my leisure. Does this make sense, or are my theories off? Thanks!

PS Next time I'm up there I'll take more photos. So far it is looking remarkably rust free.

PS it was parked because the owner has an '86 60 6cyl daily driver. It was imported from Europe, driven 3100km's from Vancouver to here, and parked.
 
I am hoping that I can a) bypass the fuel cutoff

Yes , but it depends on which fuel pump you have, which depends on which 3B you have on how you do it. The inline pump has an EDIC ( I forget what it stands for) which has 3 positions for start, run and off Its a lever pushed back and forced by a motor. You can disconnect it and set the position by hand.
If its working properly, you can see it move back and forth. Some owners disconnect them and fit a cable and some came that way from Toyota.

The rotary pump on later versions had a fuel cut solenoid , if thats working ok , you can hear an audible click when its energised. You can attach a jumper lead to simulate the power from the ignition.
You can also attach a jumper to the glowplugs bus bar for 10 seconds if they are all working.
 
Rosco is correct that there are vacuum lines off the alternator, but also, 2 of the hoses are actually oil feed lines. The alternators in the HJ and BJ's are lubricated with a constant flow of engine oil. (which I think is really pretty darn cool) You may even find that the oil feed to the turbo may be T'd off the alternator oil line...
 
I've been back a couple times. Cranked it over lots, bled the fuel filter, cracked the lines loose on the injectors and cranked it over lots. Diesel spurted out at each injector. Found the relay for the glow and powered that directly from the battery. That drew the battery down to 11.6, and it clicked off on its own after about 20 seconds. More cranking and still nothing. I sure want the thing to fire up :( I am charging the batteries again, will try bleeding the fuel system again. Just not too sure on how to proceed. Maybe drain the fuel out and try to get fresh fuel through the whole system? Should it need that after sitting for about 32 months?
 
Just not too sure on how to proceed

I suspect you still have air in the system. I would remove all the glow plugs and crank the engine. With no compression it will crank really fast and it should pump all the air out. You can put the glow plugs back in after you see a regular plume of diesel coming out of each glow plug hole.

If you have any leaks in the fuel system , fix them as a priority.

Are you using the hand pump to pump the fuel?
 
The fuel filter housing has a plunger pump and a bleeder. Now that the air is out of the fuel filter should I activate that plunger pump with the bleeder closed to feed fuel to the pump? Thanks, I'll try removing the injectors!
 
Not the injectors, I said glow plugs.:bang:;)
Do you have a rotary fuel injection pump or inline pump? Do you have a hand primer on the fuel injection pump? If so unscrew it and pump the air out of the injector lines. If you have a rotary pump, use the hand primer on the fuel filter.
Try that before removing the glow plugs .

Mental note. Hand primers on inline injection pumps are often a source of air leakage and and can be replaced by a high quality Bosch version designed for Mercedes Benz diesels.
 
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Anything happening yet?
 
I tried again this afternoon. I pulled the glow plugs and cranked it over. There is diesel coming out by the fuel lines a cracked at the injectors. I don't know what that should look like but it seems to lack 'authority' and fuel might spurt out of one, then miss or dribble a little. So now I am wondering if there could be a fuel delivery problem related to a fuel pump? Here is a photo that might be a fuel pump to supply the injection pump? And them some photos of the engine and injection pump.

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There's still that problem with the key not turning anything on. I think I need to back track and address that. Need to get it towed to my place so I have more time to tinker on it.
 
I think it's best to confirm you have voltage at the glow plugs when you turn on the key. Verify that.

If there is fuel at the injectors and the engine is turning over it won't even putt putt if there is no glow.

The glow relay could be not turning on. These have a super glow relays system that is over complicated.

If you search wilson glow, you will get a method to go around the super glow controller. With a much simpler push button to activate the relay.

Diesel doesn't really go bad. It can handle 3 years of sitting around, even 10 years. So it won't be the issue.
 

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