Looking at a 99 this weekend, any tips for a Newbie? (1 Viewer)

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StuntmanMike

Joined
Oct 2, 2018
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Location
Newport, RI
Hey guys! I just joined the board, and this is my first post. I've always admired 100's from afar, but now I'm seriously considering getting one! I've been lurking for a bit, whenever I would look up anything Hundy related, google would always send me here, haha.

A little background for my intro...

I've been wanting to get back into an SUV for a while, I used to have a ZJ Grand Cherokeewith a 3" lift and 31's that was a lot of fun but unfortunately was not built to last. That was replaced with a Volvo XC70 which I still own. I'm ready to get rid of that, since I$$ues are starting to pop up with it, and it doesn't quite suit my needs anymore. I like to camp and mountainbike, so I need a vehicle for that, but I also want to get back into offroading and backwoods exploring. I did a little of that in the Volvo a few weeks ago, and now the AWD doesn't work anymore. That reinforced the idea that I need a real SUV. I want something rugged enough for roads I couldn't dream of taking the Volvo, but still comfy for long trips, with the ability to haul my gear, plus perhaps one other person and a dog. I also want something I can set up for sleeping in, I'm all set with rolling up to campsites in the rain and having to set up the tent in that weather. Seems to happen EVERY time I go to VT, haha.

Plus, holy crap I love the tailgate/rear hatch design! That looks like it will play nice with my hitch mounted bike rack, plus who doesn't love to sit on a tailgate??

I was supposed to look at a '02 LX with 139k for 6k, but I snoozed so I lost on that one. It had nav and a busted AHC, so maybe I'm better off. Plus it wasn't one of my preferred colors, inside or outside.

Anyway, I just found another and got in touch with the guy.

A 99 LC with 199k, non-Nav, and with the E-Locker rear. Charcoal gray over tan (YESSS! Perfect combo!)

Looks fairly clean on the exterior, interior could prob use a good cleaning but is not ratty. Has an aftermarket head unit, but I'd replace with an android carplay unit with a backup cam.

Seller says everything works as it should, and the timing belt was done at 101k. That tells me it's a little overdue, but at least he's had it a while and took care of it somewhat if he had the t-belt done.

He's at 5,500 firm, which seems fair to me as long as there's nothing blatantly wrong with it. It's a New England car, so I'll check for rust and frame issues.

Anyway, as I have no experience with these, a few questions:

1) How's the price sound assuming it's clean? I feel like there's little risk there as long as everything functions as it should. Clean XJ's aren't going for much less around here.

2) Any LC specific issues to look out for, and if so, how to spot them? (for instance, when I was looking for the Volvo, a problem spot was the transmissions, and I learned you needed to drive the car for a good half hour before the signs would start to present themselves)

3) The front diff. I've read on the Slee guide that the 98 - 99 had a weaker front diff. HOW weak? Is it a grenade waiting to go off the first time I try to climb a curb, or is it more something that probably won't come into play unless I'm using a heavy foot in low range offroad? I mainly want this as a DD/Camping rig, and will be hitting mild trails with it infrequently. I realize this is a good excuse to drop in an ARB, but I'm not ready for that expense just quite yet. I want to get to know the vehicle first, and make sure it's solid before I start dumping money in mods.

4) As far as the frame and body, any spots in particular that are prone to rusting? Earlier in the year I was looking for a 3rd gen 4Runner and saw some seriously scary corrosion.

5) Timing belt. This one has 100k on it, and I think the interval is every 90k? I've read on other sites where people say the t-belt replacement is more of a suggestion for piece of mind, they go far longer. One person only had one replacement on one that had 390k and counting. I'd get it done eventually either way, but if I could go another 10 or 20k without stressing that would be great. I'll wrench on brakes/suspension all day, but will prob farm the t-belt out.

6) Any other things to look for or questions to ask the seller?

Thanks a lot for the info! (sorry this was so long!)
 
Last edited:
I have the same truck 99, gray and brown interior. Price sounds fair if its not rusting away or if something big is not required to make it reliable.

Exhaust manifolds can get cracked and make a clicking sound upon startup.
Front diff is not a worry unless you get the front tires really spinning then they grip all of a sudden. (Don’t do that).
Check the tranny if it shifts clean at 199k it will probably go another 100k easy. You just don’t want one that not working now.
Rust spots to look for, front sway bar mounts, tranny cross member (look at the seams) but it’s not hard to replace. Major frame rust anywhere, look in the rear spring buckets, the rear axle control arm brackets, rocker panels, windshield upper frame rust (can let in water, hard to fix), sun roof rust and leaks, drivers rear lower quarter behind the mud flaps covered by the plastic rear bumper.
Other: have owner test the sunroof, rear ac if present, main ac, find out if the water pump and pulleys were also replaced with the last timing belt.
Check the locker they stick without use but usually free up with some work. The light is not enough, do it on dirt or gravel, listen for the click then the tire scrub when turning. Have the owner do it.....

That’s what I can think of......good luck.

PS: Sorry for the run on nature of the wording here.
 
no, rear diff lock is optional on 98 & 99. Put it in 4 low and make sure the locker engages, not sure how hard it is to fix because the one I tested drove didn't work, and I didn't buy it. Honestly I think I like the vsc/atrack better anyway, seems to work in the ohio snow quite well.
 
At 200k you are getting into an area when things need to be done. Service history is a big plus just not word of mouth. Front end parts from steering rack, bushings , boots, ball joints, tie rod ends , brakes, etc. All fluids , brake fluid etc. Rear wheel bearings, axle seals, rear control arm bushings just to name a few. There is no doubt if it has not been well cared for it could eat you up if you are not doing your own work. If you don't work on your own vehicles then get it checked out. Timing belt service...if the first replacement is not documented then don't assume it was done. Ive seen belts at 200k that have not. Documentation of service is a good indication that your getting a solid rig. Most diligent owners keep full records and it shows when you look at the vehicle. Good luck!
 
There are far more knowledgeable people than me:

1) How's the price sound assuming it's clean? I feel like there's little risk there as long as everything functions as it should. Clean XJ's aren't going for much less around here.

  • Price is great if it has no significant issues. You can expect to spend some money baselining it, but it should last you several 100k miles with routine maintenance and care. XJ prices have jumped lately which I find funny as I use to own several.

2) Any LC specific issues to look out for, and if so, how to spot them? (for instance, when I was looking for the Volvo, a problem spot was the transmissions, and I learned you needed to drive the car for a good half hour before the signs would start to present themselves)
  • Heater T's! Do not let those go bad or you are in for a bad time, check for fatigue or corrosion. Slee has a great list to look over to give you a very generalized list to work from when searching for your LC. Leather seats love to crack, sunroof drain tube is known to clog, steering rack is known to leak and need replacing, door lock motors tend to get weak, rear hatch rust, but nothing too crazy.
  • Give it a good drive when you test drive it. Find a spot to test the rear locker, center diff lock, etc.

3) The front diff. I've read on the Slee guide that the 98 - 99 had a weaker front diff. HOW weak? Is it a grenade waiting to go off the first time I try to climb a curb, or is it more something that probably won't come into play unless I'm using a heavy foot in low range offroad? I mainly want this as a DD/Camping rig, and will be hitting mild trails with it infrequently. I realize this is a good excuse to drop in an ARB, but I'm not ready for that expense just quite yet. I want to get to know the vehicle first, and make sure it's solid before I start dumping money in mods.
  • Like said in another post, as long as you are not spinning the front and suddenly gripping, you will be fine. Another cause will be the front end bouncing off a rock during a climb. Swap out to an ARB at a later date if you start getting concerned. I have a '99 and do some mild wheeling and have yet to blow it.

4) As far as the frame and body, any spots in particular that are prone to rusting? Earlier in the year I was looking for a 3rd gen 4Runner and saw some seriously scary corrosion.
  • Rear hatch likes to rust, otherwise check your standard areas (frame, frame mounts, body, floor pans, etc.). There several threads showing what significant rust looks like under a 100 series.

5) Timing belt. This one has 100k on it, and I think the interval is every 90k? I've read on other sites where people say the t-belt replacement is more of a suggestion for piece of mind, they go far longer. One person only had one replacement on one that had 390k and counting. I'd get it done eventually either way, but if I could go another 10 or 20k without stressing that would be great. I'll wrench on brakes/suspension all day, but will prob farm the t-belt out.

  • The kit for the Tbelt is not that much and well worth doing as soon as you can. There are instances that people have gone way over the recommended servicing, but its strongly advised to replace it. I spent $675 in total for the Tbelt replacement via shop with parts.

6) Any other things to look for or questions to ask the seller?
  • Any and all documentation they have on it will give you good insight on what has been taken care of. Pull a history report too.
  • As stated before by JayM, expect some things will need to be taken care of. Probably due for wheel bearing repack/replacement among others.

my $.02
 
get a prepurchased inspection and make sure there is minimal rust. Make sure everything works mechanically, and all fluids are good.
 
JayM said:
At 200k you are getting into an area when things need to be done. Service history is a big plus just not word of mouth. Front end parts from steering rack, bushings , boots, ball joints, tie rod ends , brakes, etc. All fluids , brake fluid etc. Rear wheel bearings, axle seals, rear control arm bushings just to name a few. There is no doubt if it has not been well cared for it could eat you up if you are not doing your own work. If you don't work on your own vehicles then get it checked out. Timing belt service...if the first replacement is not documented then don't assume it was done. Ive seen belts at 200k that have not. Documentation of service is a good indication that your getting a solid rig. Most diligent owners keep full records and it shows when you look at the vehicle. Good luck!
Click to expand...

You make a great point! Adding the t-belt/water pump service is another 1k right off the bat, and who knows what else it will need.

I was just reading another thread where a guy put a boatload of money into an '00 and was looking into selling it while WAY under water. I do not want to go that route! Whole reason I want a Hundy is they're supposed to be reliable and not break down. I'd hate to get into a maint nightmare right away. I'm rethinking the high miles now.

I found another 99 (diff lock) with 141k miles for 7,500. 2K more for 60k miles less. Probably makes financial sense. Ad has pics of the underside, a lot of original chassis black is still showing. No mention of maint though.

Also starting to look into Sequoia. Similar money gets me an 05 with 5speed and vvti 4.7 with 50hp more than the 100. Plus a little bigger, and is available w/out nav, so I can do my own thing with the head unit. Not to mention the sweet roll down rear window. I look at those as 4Runners on steroids. Don't know if interior or build quality is up to par with the 100 though. Not as cool as the Hundy though, any maybe TOO big for trail use.
 
cmck said:
I have the same truck 99, gray and brown interior. Price sounds fair if its not rusting away or if something big is not required to make it reliable.

Exhaust manifolds can get cracked and make a clicking sound upon startup.
Front diff is not a worry unless you get the front tires really spinning then they grip all of a sudden. (Don’t do that).
Check the tranny if it shifts clean at 199k it will probably go another 100k easy. You just don’t want one that not working now.
Rust spots to look for, front sway bar mounts, tranny cross member (look at the seams) but it’s not hard to replace. Major frame rust anywhere, look in the rear spring buckets, the rear axle control arm brackets, rocker panels, windshield upper frame rust (can let in water, hard to fix), sun roof rust and leaks, drivers rear lower quarter behind the mud flaps covered by the plastic rear bumper.
Other: have owner test the sunroof, rear ac if present, main ac, find out if the water pump and pulleys were also replaced with the last timing belt.
Check the locker they stick without use but usually free up with some work. The light is not enough, do it on dirt or gravel, listen for the click then the tire scrub when turning. Have the owner do it.....

That’s what I can think of......good luck.

PS: Sorry for the run on nature of the wording here.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, that was exactly what I was looking for!

No worries on the wording, it was easily understandable.
 
CarDudeFL said:
There are far more knowledgeable people than me:

1) How's the price sound assuming it's clean? I feel like there's little risk there as long as everything functions as it should. Clean XJ's aren't going for much less around here.

  • Price is great if it has no significant issues. You can expect to spend some money baselining it, but it should last you several 100k miles with routine maintenance and care. XJ prices have jumped lately which I find funny as I use to own several.

2) Any LC specific issues to look out for, and if so, how to spot them? (for instance, when I was looking for the Volvo, a problem spot was the transmissions, and I learned you needed to drive the car for a good half hour before the signs would start to present themselves)
  • Heater T's! Do not let those go bad or you are in for a bad time, check for fatigue or corrosion. Slee has a great list to look over to give you a very generalized list to work from when searching for your LC. Leather seats love to crack, sunroof drain tube is known to clog, steering rack is known to leak and need replacing, door lock motors tend to get weak, rear hatch rust, but nothing too crazy.
  • Give it a good drive when you test drive it. Find a spot to test the rear locker, center diff lock, etc.

3) The front diff. I've read on the Slee guide that the 98 - 99 had a weaker front diff. HOW weak? Is it a grenade waiting to go off the first time I try to climb a curb, or is it more something that probably won't come into play unless I'm using a heavy foot in low range offroad? I mainly want this as a DD/Camping rig, and will be hitting mild trails with it infrequently. I realize this is a good excuse to drop in an ARB, but I'm not ready for that expense just quite yet. I want to get to know the vehicle first, and make sure it's solid before I start dumping money in mods.
  • Like said in another post, as long as you are not spinning the front and suddenly gripping, you will be fine. Another cause will be the front end bouncing off a rock during a climb. Swap out to an ARB at a later date if you start getting concerned. I have a '99 and do some mild wheeling and have yet to blow it.

4) As far as the frame and body, any spots in particular that are prone to rusting? Earlier in the year I was looking for a 3rd gen 4Runner and saw some seriously scary corrosion.
  • Rear hatch likes to rust, otherwise check your standard areas (frame, frame mounts, body, floor pans, etc.). There several threads showing what significant rust looks like under a 100 series.

5) Timing belt. This one has 100k on it, and I think the interval is every 90k? I've read on other sites where people say the t-belt replacement is more of a suggestion for piece of mind, they go far longer. One person only had one replacement on one that had 390k and counting. I'd get it done eventually either way, but if I could go another 10 or 20k without stressing that would be great. I'll wrench on brakes/suspension all day, but will prob farm the t-belt out.

  • The kit for the Tbelt is not that much and well worth doing as soon as you can. There are instances that people have gone way over the recommended servicing, but its strongly advised to replace it. I spent $675 in total for the Tbelt replacement via shop with parts.

6) Any other things to look for or questions to ask the seller?
  • Any and all documentation they have on it will give you good insight on what has been taken care of. Pull a history report too.
  • As stated before by JayM, expect some things will need to be taken care of. Probably due for wheel bearing repack/replacement among others.

my $.02
Click to expand...


Thanks so much for taking the time to answer everything! That's extremely helpful. That heater t issue is great to know, I was not aware of that.


I've found another locker 99, this one with 141k, for 7,500. Seems worth the extra money for so much less mileage. I've also found an 05 with the same mileage, for literally 2x the price. Are the later ones really THAT much better?? I'm sure the 5 speed is nice, but the earlier ones not having NAV is a big plus for me.
 
Ohiolc100 said:
no, rear diff lock is optional on 98 & 99. Put it in 4 low and make sure the locker engages, not sure how hard it is to fix because the one I tested drove didn't work, and I didn't buy it. Honestly I think I like the vsc/atrack better anyway, seems to work in the ohio snow quite well.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I always thought lockers were much preferable, like when I was looking for a 3rd gen 4R I wasn't looking at any that didn't have the elocker.

After watching some ATRAC videos, I'm actually pretty impressed with it. Most impressive video I saw was actually a Sequoia crawling up a very rutted and steep hill. I really doubt an open diff rig w/out it would have made it.
 
I mean if I could have both I would, but I'm not spending the money on a locker when it's a DD and most action it sees is deep snow. Problem with the factory locker for me is it's only on in 4lo, and only when you switch it on, and hopefully it works when you do. The atrack is always on, and it works. I love throwing mine around in the snow, driving over drifts and stuff any just watching the system work.
 
My advice, which was thankfully but painfully driven into my skull by 100 members was this.

Slow the hell down.

Doesn’t mean I care less, it means care more.

Search here and learn about it. What your needs are comes down to model year and trim.
 
Pyrenees said:
My advice, which was thankfully but painfully driven into my skull by 100 members was this.

Slow the hell down.

Doesn’t mean I care less, it means care more.

Search here and learn about it. What your needs are comes down to model year and trim.
Click to expand...


Great advise! When looking for one of these vehicles it pays to be patient and ready. Did I say patient. Very rewarding vehicles when you wait and get a good one. I tend to forget how expensive these were new at the time and they did not mass produce them.
 
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