Loober's 1HZ-T Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Hello,

After struggling with a number of gremlins on my 1HZ in a HZJ77, I've decided to get it rebuilt to 1HZ-T spec. Some of the history was documented in this thread.

1HZ fuel in oil

I've deliberated quite a bit on a 1HDT or 1HDFT swap, but the scarcity of these engines in the states, cost of import and the factor of unknowns with getting a used engine that can result in even more cost has brought me to just rebuild the one I have.

The plan is to follow what most have done in the past, upgrade internals to turbo spec and use a Gturbo.

The existing setup had a CT26 turbo installed by PO, but it was the typical scabbed together setup, with a very fuzzy history, which is another reason I want to do the rebuild and start with a fresh slate.

The tear down went fairly uneventful, I was expecting to see some obvious issues once I had everything apart, but nothing super apparent was seen, except for some buggering on top of 3 of the pistons, maybe someone can chime in on that.


I dropped of the block, crank, head and bearing cap at the local machine shop who has had experience with these in the past, thanks to Michael from Westcoast cruisers, sending many of his engines there. We'll see what they come up with once they do a thorough assessment.

My next step is to wait and see what the machine shop says, as long as they don't find any major issues like a cracked block that will force me to re-think the rebuild, I will start sourcing the parts. The plan is to do all the assembly myself, aside from the head rebuild, which the shop will do.

Couple immediate questions:

1. I've read many threads on the 1HZ-T spec and the upgraded parts to be used. Consensus is definitely new pistons and pins, but there were mixed reviews on whether its worth the extra cost of going with the 1HDT conrods versus sticking with the stock 1HZ granted they are in good condition. Appreciate some more opinions on that.

2.What are some reputable suppliers that can provide a complete rebuild kit, I know Engines australia are one, a place called noordeman has popped up when google searching 1HZ-T, any additional recommendations are appreciated.

3. I want to have as close to factory looking turbo install as possible, since the engine is out I want to tap the block for the oil feed and oil return lines. I am pretty clear on what i need to do for the feed, but haven't been able to figure out the fitting that is used for the oil return. See picture from turbo safari installation guide for reference. I have the stock 1HDT neck that come of the turbo and it appears to have a nozzle for a 7/8" hose. Can anyone help me determine what that fitting is, so i can have the machine shop tap these while they have it.

Stay tuned, more pics to come once I start getting into it.

Nick

IMG_2574.JPG


bolck_oil_return.jpg
 
I've been outweighing all my options and figuring costs, I am concerned that I will go through all the cost and effort to rebuild my 1HZ even if with a turbo it will still leave me wishing I had a 1HDT.

Since I was planning on doing a full rebuild already and upgrading many of the internal parts it would not be much more to convert to 1HDT all together, i.e. reuse the block and crank, source 1HDT head, pump, injectors. I was already running a CT26 setup so I have most of those parts, all the other accessories are interchangeable. Hopefully I could I sell some of my 1HZ parts to offset the difference.

The net cost should still be on the low end of what a used high mileage complete 1HDT's are going for, seems like a good option. Although complete 1HDT's are hard to come by, there seems to be a plethora of 1HDT parts on the classifieds, the only trouble might be finding a complete head.

Based on my research the most appropriate source model is the HDJ80,81 1990-97. I am concerned about compatibility issues, meaning if i source the pump and head from non matching engine, could I run into some issues? If anyone can shed some additional light on that.
 
I am concerned about compatibility issues, meaning if i source the pump and head from non matching engine, could I run into some issues?

I cant see how this would be a problem. The only differences that I'm aware of is in the injector opening pressures. Some markets like Europe required them to open at higher pressures due to their emission rules. But that's just a settings issue. I know of owners who have fitted 1HD T injection pumps to 1HZs.
 
I've been outweighing all my options and figuring costs, I am concerned that I will go through all the cost and effort to rebuild my 1HZ even if with a turbo it will still leave me wishing I had a 1HDT.

Since I was planning on doing a full rebuild already and upgrading many of the internal parts it would not be much more to convert to 1HDT all together, i.e. reuse the block and crank, source 1HDT head, pump, injectors. I was already running a CT26 setup so I have most of those parts, all the other accessories are interchangeable. Hopefully I could I sell some of my 1HZ parts to offset the difference.

The net cost should still be on the low end of what a used high mileage complete 1HDT's are going for, seems like a good option. Although complete 1HDT's are hard to come by, there seems to be a plethora of 1HDT parts on the classifieds, the only trouble might be finding a complete head.

Based on my research the most appropriate source model is the HDJ80,81 1990-97. I am concerned about compatibility issues, meaning if i source the pump and head from non matching engine, could I run into some issues? If anyone can shed some additional light on that.

Sourcing a good used 1HD-T would almost certainly
be cheaper than sourcing the parts, machining and labor needed for a 1HD-T clone built on your 1HZ.
IP, head and injectors will run you up to $4K or more if you have to buy new rather than re-conditioned/core exchange.

I believe the piston combustion chamber shape changed at some point during the 1HD-T life span, but can't remember any details. Not sure how crucial this is.

A turbo 1HZ can be impressive, but $ for $, and all things being equal (as much as possible) it will never match a 1HD-T
 
I agree it will be much easier to go with a swap, there are some for sale right now hopefully i can make a deal work.
 
The big advantage to the 1HDT over a 1HZ-T is direct injection vs. indirect injection. Direct injection will run cooler and more efficient. This is especially important if you're ever going to make the engine work hard with highway heavy towing for example. With the 1HZ-T you will be fighting overheating in high load hot ambient situations.
 
Even though I've decided to swap out the 1HZ, I am still moving forward with the machine shop taking a look at it. I checked in on them to see what they have found....the block and crank looked okay, but the head not so much, the main issue are cracks in the pre combustion chambers, see pic. Five out of the six had almost identical cracks. Three of the pre-cups were totally wasted, which is starting explain the issues i was having.

Can anyone chime on the severity of these cracks and if the head can still be used.

Thanks

IMG_2587.JPG
 
What did the shop say?
 
They said its not completely uncommon, but could not give me a straight answer on how it would effect its longevity. Its one of those things that depends on personal perspective and the future use/abuse that it will be exposed to. I was hoping to run into someone that has had the same cracks and has been running the head with them for 200,000km with no issues...
 
Did you ask him if it was possible to weld it?
 
Even though I've decided to swap out the 1HZ, I am still moving forward with the machine shop taking a look at it. I checked in on them to see what they have found....the block and crank looked okay, but the head not so much, the main issue are cracks in the pre combustion chambers, see pic. Five out of the six had almost identical cracks. Three of the pre-cups were totally wasted, which is starting explain the issues i was having.

Can anyone chime on the severity of these cracks and if the head can still be used.

Thanks


Did you ask him if it was possible to weld it?

There is nothing really moving inside that hole, like a valve or anything, just the injector and glow plug.
I really see it possible to weld it and drill it the same size it was.
 
There is nothing really moving inside that hole, like a valve or anything, just the injector and glow plug.
I really see it possible to weld it and drill it the same size it was.

This is what I thought, I just wasn't sure if they could weld due to the small size. The engine rebuilders I spoke to a few years back when I was having a 1HZ rebuilt all said the heads are pretty reliable. Usually they require only the valve seats to be lapped and planed flat.
 
This is what I thought, I just wasn't sure if they could weld due to the small size. The engine rebuilders I spoke to a few years back when I was having a 1HZ rebuilt all said the heads are pretty reliable. Usually they require only the valve seats to be lapped and planed flat.

Its cast iron, is very hard to crack them but sometimes sh*t happens.
91Igr9y.png

(took this from Internet)

The head of my B engine is similar to the 1HZ but 4 cylinders, its cast iron and it had a crack just like in the picture, and you know what cause this? Overheat! It overheated 3 or 5 times in 10 years and that was enough to crack it (I ended up replacing the head).
And the worst of the worst (if you want to crack the engine in half) is to put cold water on a warm engine when its not running, then start it up.
 
Thanks all, I am not jazzed about spending all the money and effort on the rebuild and still using a cracked or welded head. It will always be a weak point, defeats the purpose of even doing the rebuild. I've decided to part out the motor and swap in a 1HD-FT instead. I have posted a few of the parts on the classifieds. The crank and block was magna fluxed and certified to be good along with a grind and hone, so if anyone is interested in those parts PM me, will be perfect for a build or spares, at a great discount. I will throw in the cracked head as well. Also, have virtually every other part available, will be posting soon on the classifieds.
 

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