Long Tow Hook Bolts (1 Viewer)

[70 FJ40]

I'm try to find a couple factory tow hook bolts. Anyone have a couple or know where I can find them?
Ive done a google search but i don't have a part number and its hard to know I'm getting the right thing when I type in tow hook bolt for a part search. I need the longer ones from the passenger side.

Thanks

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Partsouq.com

 

[flintknapper]

The OEM should be a 90119-14022 but if you need something longer, I believe that is a 10.9 grade bolt M12 x 125 that you can source at Belmetric.

 

[neckbone]

I'm try to find a couple factory tow hook bolts. Anyone have a couple or know where I can find them?
Ive done a google search but i don't have a part number and its hard to know I'm getting the right thing when I type in tow hook bolt for a part search. I need the longer ones from the passenger side.

Thanks

I just looked in my garage and found one. I know I have the other one, but I can't put my fingers on it right now. I'm going to do a deep clean/organize of my garage this weekend. If I find the other one and you don't have any luck before then, I'll let you know. Not sure what it'll be to mail them across country, but they're yours for the freight.

 

[abuck99]

The nice thing about the OEM tow hook frame bolts is that they have a tapered cutting edge:

part #’s in post 9

Solved: Looking for frame bolt size confirmation

In the process of installing my rear bumper today/this weekend. Came to a snag when I found that A- I'm missing some bolts and B- the bolt holes I need to use are off-center from the hole they're in. I tried a 12mmx1.25TP and it just slides in. I also tried an old frame bolt that held on...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[70 FJ40]

I just looked in my garage and found one. I know I have the other one, but I can't put my fingers on it right now. I'm going to do a deep clean/organize of my garage this weekend. If I find the other one and you don't have any luck before then, I'll let you know. Not sure what it'll be to mail them across country, but they're yours for the freight.

That would be awesome. I did find the part number on partsouq.com. Same number as @flintknapper said. Pictures I found of it though all show it as a shiny bolt rather than black. Not a big deal but that's kinda why I want the oem bolt, so it matches the other side. I'm weird, I know no one is ever going to see it. Anyway @neckbone if you find a couple I'd be happy to cover the cost of freight.

 

[IndroCruise]

I don’t mean to rant – well, not much – but may I suggest without intending disrespect to anyone that the mentioned bolts be checked with the right grade specified for proper Recovery Points?

It is worthwhile to distinguish between

• unrated “factory tie down hooks/loops” used for shipping the vehicle and which are downright dangerous for anything else, and,

• rated (?) “tow hooks” which might be used for ‘gentle’ towing at very low speeds on good roads such as after a breakdown but are hazardous for anything else – as noted in the attached extract from a Land Cruiser Owner’s Manual (USA version), and,

• rated “recovery points” which are specifically designed (including especially the method of attachment to the vehicle) and which are used for extracting a vehicle stuck in water, sand, mud, ruts, rocks, etc and for which snatch straps, ropes, winches etc, will be used under proper procedures. Forces considerably exceeding the vehicle weight may be involved.

Has anyone found a rating on a LC100/LX470 factory-fitted long hook or listed in the Owner’s Manual, meaning Working Load Limit (WLL) or Safe Working Load (SWL) specified in tons or tonnes??? I could not find any such rating in any Land Cruiser Owner’s Manual.

Personal opinion: No rating, no go. Best use of unrated hooks and unrated attaching bolts is as paperweights or as sinkers for fishing!

The risk with the LC100/LX470 factory-fitted long hooks is the temptation to use one as a “recovery point” -- because they are there. This temptation is best removed altogether and replaced with more capable and much safer devices, correctly attached. There are rated choices available in most countries.

Apologies for the rant – but sad to report, some years ago I came upon two Land Cruisers at minesite where I worked, one bogged in mud, the other had been used for recovery. The hook (or bolt?) had failed and the strain energy in the rope whipped the hook through the windscreen of one vehicle, striking one driver a glancing blow on the side of the head. He had one hell of headache. There was a fast emergency trip to a nearby hospital but he lost sight in one eye. If struck a little differently, he would have been incapacitated for life or dead. Or if the trajectory had been a little different, several bystanders would have been hit instead. Wrong attachment, wrong method, wrong equipment, wrong judgement, wrong outcome – bad enough and the worst possible outcome was avoided only by sheer luck. How would it have ended if this had occurred on a remote trail or beach somewhere?

There are plenty of websites describing the right hooks, the right attaching hardware and equipment for any towing or recovery purpose and the correct methods and precautions for their safe use.

There are also many videos on what not to do. Here is one – the vehicles in this video are not Land Cruisers but the message is clear ….

 

[flintknapper]

I don’t mean to rant – well, not much – but may I suggest without intending disrespect to anyone that the mentioned bolts be checked with the right grade specified for proper Recovery Points?

It is worthwhile to distinguish between

• unrated “factory tie down hooks/loops” used for shipping the vehicle and which are downright dangerous for anything else, and,

• rated (?) “tow hooks” which might be used for ‘gentle’ towing at very low speeds on good roads such as after a breakdown but are hazardous for anything else – as noted in the attached extract from a Land Cruiser Owner’s Manual (USA version), and,

• rated “recovery points” which are specifically designed (including especially the method of attachment to the vehicle) and which are used for extracting a vehicle stuck in water, sand, mud, ruts, rocks, etc and for which snatch straps, ropes, winches etc, will be used under proper procedures. Forces considerably exceeding the vehicle weight may be involved.

Has anyone found a rating on a LC100/LX470 factory-fitted long hook or listed in the Owner’s Manual, meaning Working Load Limit (WLL) or Safe Working Load (SWL) specified in tons or tonnes??? I could not find any such rating in any Land Cruiser Owner’s Manual.

Personal opinion: No rating, no go. Best use of unrated hooks and unrated attaching bolts is as paperweights or as sinkers for fishing!

The risk with the LC100/LX470 factory-fitted long hooks is the temptation to use one as a “recovery point” -- because they are there. This temptation is best removed altogether and replaced with more capable and much safer devices, correctly attached. There are rated choices available in most countries.

Apologies for the rant – but sad to report, some years ago I came upon two Land Cruisers at minesite where I worked, one bogged in mud, the other had been used for recovery. The hook (or bolt?) had failed and the strain energy in the rope whipped the hook through the windscreen of one vehicle, striking one driver a glancing blow on the side of the head. He had one hell of headache. There was a fast emergency trip to a nearby hospital but he lost sight in one eye. If struck a little differently, he would have been incapacitated for life or dead. Or if the trajectory had been a little different, several bystanders would have been hit instead. Wrong attachment, wrong method, wrong equipment, wrong judgement, wrong outcome – bad enough and the worst possible outcome was avoided only by sheer luck. How would it have ended if this had occurred on a remote trail or beach somewhere?

There are plenty of websites describing the right hooks, the right attaching hardware and equipment for any towing or recovery purpose and the correct methods and precautions for their safe use.

There are also many videos on what not to do. Here is one – the vehicles in this video are not Land Cruisers but the message is clear ….

A great admonishment and point. One I fully endorse.

Not sure how we went from TOW points and fasteners to 'recovery points' (quite a different thing) but the advice is sound.

 

[70 FJ40]

I was likewise concerned about bolt strength. But I did find 2 places where someone found a rating for the 11 bolts from Toyota. Which was higher than grade 8. I'll see if I can find it. The other thing is, I trust Toyota and it's engineers with my life daily on most of the rest of the vehicles systems. Why would the tow point bolts be any different? They are barely visible, so they are clearly not put there for just looks. Also, it does not matter if I put a higher grade bolt on there if I'm still using and trusting the captured nuts inside the frame not to strip or the weld to fail.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I was likewise concerned about bolt strength. But I did find 2 places where someone found a rating for the 11 bolts from Toyota. Which was higher than grade 8. I'll see if I can find it. The other thing is, I trust Toyota and it's engineers with my life daily on most of the rest of the vehicles systems. Why would the tow point bolts be any different? They are barely visible, so they are clearly not put there for just looks. Also, it does not matter if I put a higher grade bolt on there if I'm still using and trusting the captured nuts inside the frame not to strip or the weld to fail.