Long term storage (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 27, 2010
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10
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164
Location
Branson, Mo
So I've moved overseas and had to store my fj40 in my mom's garage! I drove from Colorado to Moyock, NC were it now sits, last June. Was wondering if anybody knows of a good shop that can help me maintain it while I'm gone? I really don't want it to just sit and rot! Any ideas? I've looked into a small shop called Moyock Automotive that's near by. No email or Web page but the shop has online reviews that seem really good.
 
How long will it be stored, all you probably need is someone to start it up once a month and maybe drive it every once in a while, even if it is only a few hundred yards. But these can sit for a long time without issue, especially if you have some good gas stabilizer in it. See if there is anywhere near you that sells marine gas ie gas with no ethanol. Gas with Ethanol is very bad to leave in the tank, carb and fuel lines.
 
It's going to be stored for 2 years maybe more. I don't have anyone to really go and start it monthly. My mom is awesome just I don't really want her to worry about it. I did use gas stabilizer and it's on jack stands.i didn't feel safe leaving it hooked up to my battery tender with out any ideas of how long I was going to be gone. I was hoping to find a good shop that could maybe check on it every 6 months? get it started, check fluids, and do what ever little work needs to be done. So what I really would like is someone who lives near by to go check out Moyock Automotive and get me an email address. Time difference is crasy! It's 6 12 PM Friday!
 
I would not drain the radiator, just make sure it has a good mixture, leaving it full and properly mixed will help prevent rust. Fill the tank 100% with gas to prevent condensation in the tank, and a good stabilizer, getting no ethanol gas would be key. Disconnect the fuel line before the fuel pump and then run the engine out of gas. Then disconnect the coil, while turning the engine over spray something like wd40 down the carb to fog the inside and protect it. Spray wd40 under the distributor cap, and on all wires and disconnect the battery. Then it should be good for a few years. We use to do that with marine engines all the time. Never a problem when starting them back up, and they were not in a garage.
 
I've found that the biggest issue with storing cars is the valves remaining open. If you have someone start the vehicle once a month, then all is fine (as long as they fully warm it up). If you don't (or they promise to do so, but don't): Wash and wax the vehicle, detail the inside being sure to remove any food, wrappers, etc, any manuals or books should also be stored somewhere else. Drain and replace the oil and filter, then warm it up. Next, pull the spark plugs and put a bit of mystery oil in the cylinders. Put the spark plugs back in, but do NOT hook up the wires. Pull the valve cover and loosen the lifters so that the valves are shut. Set the valve cover back on. Disconnect the battery and leave it in its battery box. I think a full fuel system is fine, but if not, pull the tank and put POR 15 or similar tank coating in the tank. Drain the carb and buy a carb rebuild kit for when you get back. Leave that on the seat. Put mothballs inside the vehicle along with lots of those blocks of rat killer in a variety of places (making sure cats can't get to them). If there is any exposed, raw metal (like headers), spray WD 40 or similar over the top. I've had bunches of boats, and those were the basic steps I did each winter to winterize the boat (I also pulled the drain plugs, but with antifreeze, I agree with the previous poster that it's better in than empty - with that said, you do want to check that it still has fluid when you go to revive it)

Your biggest enemy, beside mice, is rust - NC is humid, and if you leave the valves open - you'll likely come back to a seized motor. By warming it up, closing the valves, putting in Marvel oil, and replacing the spark plugs you shouldn't have any moisture in the cylinder. Frankly, I would have left it in Colorado or rented a lot at a snowbird lot in Arizona... however, it's not fatal - just requires a bit more work.

To revive, put a charger on the battery, pull the plugs and spin the vehicle over - there shouldn't be any fluid in there, but for safety sake.. do it. Put the plugs in, file the points (if it has points), connect the wires. Pull the carb, replace the float and needle then spray cleaner through the jets. Readjust the valves, put a new oil cover gasket on using copper coat so you don't have to replace it again if you have to do this again. Clean what's left of the rat poison out, smell the gas - if it smells funky replace it, push it out of the garage, TEST THE BRAKES (don't ask why I just said that), listen for weird noises when you push it out from the drivetrain, fire it up. Let it fully warm up before you move it. Once it's fully warm, drive down the street slowly.
 
My question is not how to store it cause that's to late. I'm over 7000 miles from the truck now. What I want to find is a shop, close by, that can do quality work for me.
 
Do you know anyone around your moms that would go start your van? Maybe a retired neighbour who wouldnt mind starting it once a month? You dont really need a mechanice just someone who can turn an ignition key and drive a standard.

D
 
You know, I have no idea what's close to what in NC, but I know an old fart who matches the description of someone to start your car.... he's got a billion stories, continues to land speed race in a diesel-powered S-10.... but I could get the two of you together... if he's not close, he might know someone who is close because of the land speed stuff... PM some contact information, his name is Dan Stokes and he lives on Bangshift.com, nice guy (just don't tell him I said that about him... it'll go straight to his head).
 
You could contact the Olde North State Cruisers club and see if someone could take care of it for you. If you woulda left it in CO I bet someone from Rising Sun woulda done that for you (I woulda volunteered myself).
 
Looks like I'll just have to call Moyock Automotive on Tuesday and see how they sound on the phone. I didn't want anybody I don't know storing my rig or playing around in it. Plus that's a lot to ask someone cause they would have to have the place for it. I had looked at professional vehicle storage in different places but that's a lot more money than I have. My mom's place is free and inside.
 
After a lot of thought on the Beach and some beer, I’ve decided to just pull the trigger and ship my truck to Hardline Fabrication Services in South Caroline and see what magic Stan can do for me. I don’t plan on it being shipped until January. I’ll start a build thread then, but for now if anybody has pictures of work he has done on a FJ40 in action I would love to see it. So far the work I’ve seen looks top notch.
My plan is that this is going to be a long term build since I’m overseas. The back of the frame is toast so I’ll have to wait to see what he thinks he can do with it.
 
Just ran across a thread in the 60 forum-It's a list of Cruiser Mechanics by State. For NC---
North Carolina

Toyota of Gastonia
About 20 minutes west of downtown Charlotte/Exit 22 off I-85
Ask for Brian Barcon - Tell him Andrew sent you
(704) 824-7777
Review: Have serviced four vehicles with Brian over five years, never a bad experience. Clearly costs more to go here, but its done right the first time. Plus, I've never run into any $1,500 front-end brake jobs, etc. (i.e. no BS)

J & J Auto
Off Capital Blvd. in Raleigh, NC
Behind 3809 Capital Blvd. (Near the Super 8 Motel)

Canucks Cruisers
Raeford, NC 28376
United States
ph: 910-309-1731

The thread is here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cruiser-mechanics-listed-by-state.349535/
maybe able to help with this---
 
Thanks for all the info! But i'm going with HFS in January!
 

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