Long Crank Before Starting When Warm

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702FZJ80

702FZJ80

10 Year
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Threads
32
Messages
446
My stock 95 starts right up when cold, but when it's been driven and up to operating temperature it takes longer to start. It's getting worse after offroading today for about 4 hours while at low speed. So it was getting worked pretty hard. Now it's taking close to 2 seconds for it to fire up. Once it's running, it purrs, smooth, no hesitation, etc.

Any ideas?
 
I think its normal. My truck takes a second or two longer than any other car I've owned to turn over.
 
From reading similar "long crank" threads in the past, I. Believe this can be attributed to the charcoal canister. Does the filler make a hissing noise when you remove the fuel cap?
I have no idea why this happens, it just seems to go together a lot.

It would also make sense if the cold start injector is clogged/hoovered up. I haven't been through all of jonheld's 3FE information, but I bet the solution is there.
 
Golgo13 said:
It would also make sense if the cold start injector is clogged/hoovered up. I haven't been through all of jonheld's 3FE information, but I bet the solution is there.
Click to expand...

Don't worry about this 702fj80, I'm pretty certain you don't have a 3FE in your 95.
 
True, 1fze here.....

I've been reading that long thread about the cc but I haven't seen much about the hard start going along with it.

I did have a full tank and climbed about 3k feet in about 95 degree heat before the first 2-3 second long crank occurred.

Would a vented gas cap help?
 
"Would a vented gas cap help?"

I wouldn't go there. Your fuel system is designed to be a closed system. If you relieve the pressure on the tank and it starts better, I would look into replacing your charcoal canister. We had a no start issue (and tank over-pressurizing) in high altitudes in our 92 (3FE) and we ended up changing out the CC with the one from Autozone. All is good now.
 
SUMMIT CRUISERS said:
Don't worry about this 702fj80, I'm pretty certain you don't have a 3FE in your 95.
Click to expand...
I wasn't reading carefully enough, sorry. To my defense it was 2:30am... i saw the name 702FJ80 and assumed 3FE. Forgot the OP mentioned it was a 95.
Regardless, the Autozone CC seems to be the way to go...
 
I pulled the cc out and wasn't able to blow through the tank port with a hose by mouth. (Shut up sickos)

So sprayed a little wd40 into the tank port and blasted compressed air in there. Now if I blow hard I can get air out of the purge port and atmosphere port underneath. I either fixed it or broke it worse, we'll see.

I saw a video on YouTube about wd40 into port for the check valve in case it was gunked up.
 
Possibly old injectors leaking slightly when the engine is off causing extended cranking due to slightly flooded cylinders.
 
Does your CC stink like fuel? Mine does and I have the scenario described along with the fuel cap vacuum release when opening.
 
Checked PCV, nice and rattly, OEM, replaced grommet and hose just because. Replaced a couple of vacuum lines that weren't new looking......

Now the truck has hesitation off of idle, but still running great on the highway. Long crank is still long cranking.

Had the CEL come on but disconnected the battery because I don't have an OBDI scan tool, only a device to pully ODII codes. Should have left it though! haha

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Could the EGR being dirty cause these symptoms? Any way to check the injectors?
 
IMG_20140914_201548_980.webp Pulled the plugs and they look look clean, maybe a bit on the lean side. One thing to note is they were barely snug in the head, a couple of them weren't even snug. I can't believe there wasn't oil all over the inside of the plug housings it was that bad. Maybe a bit of compression was being lost by the plugs, I can only hope that would fix it, not likely though. I plan to install new plugs tomorrow, just the basic NGK's.

The cap and rotor look fine with very little wear at the contact points, I plan to scuff them a bit with sandpaper and reinstall tomorrow. (the PO said he did a tuneup at 90K and it has 143K on it now)

I checked the wiring harness behind the EGR per other threads I've searched and read, and it wasn't touching and didn't look melted.

The coolant looks good, the oil looks very clean still, no oily milkshake on the dipstick, and no white smoke from the tailpipe thank goodness!

I'm thinking it's fuel related, the loss of low end torque is intermittent as well, it's not all the time now. Very strange this problemo indeed!
 
Ok, CEL light came on after plug change (Running great now, but still long crank)

Code is P0170

I have a 1995 but it has the ODII port in the fuse box on driver's side. This code is murky from searching done, it seems it just indicates a fuel trim issue. Any thoughts?

Thank you!
 
Ordered a fuel filter, should be here on wed., looking forward to the job, should be fun from all accounts I've seen here.

In case you guys were wondering! :doh:
 
Cleaned up the contacts on the fuel relay per the thread on this great forum..........will need to drive it but still long cranked in the garage after the job was done.
 
My 96 does this as well. When cold, it fires up on the 4th or 5th rotation. When hot, it takes about double that, maybe 8-9 rotations before it fires up but once running it's fine. The only thing I noticed is that once warmed up and I put it in neutral, it idles fine but feels like it misses every so often. Instead of a glass smooth purrr, I get more of a purrrrRRrrrrrrRrrrrrrrrrrrRrrrr haha.
 
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