FZJ-8-my wallet (1 Viewer)

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I just found out i’m Going to have the put all this back together at some point.

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I had Jackson Auto Worx in WS do some work on my 60, and they used a local machine shop when my head gasket blew. I don’t know the name of the machine shop, but if you give Jackson a call they should be able to give you the name.

Thanks for the info, I'll give them a call on tomorrow.

Anybody know of some other shops I should be checking with as well?
 
@beno I'm happy to report that there appear to be no bent rods. All measurements of piston height at TDC appear to be identical. Any additional input you have after reviewing the pics would be much appreciated. Also, it looks like I may have broke the knock sensor between cylinder 5/6 during the disassembly. Is this easy to get a hold of? Thanks!

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Having the same exact issues. Glad you tracked it down. If it returns, it could be ecu wiring at firewall frayed by EGR valve heat.

...Flashback to a post from many months ago...

The hesitation ended up being from the ECU wiring. I think it went away for awhile because I inadvertently moved the ECU bundle away from the block while messing with the EGR valve and pipe. The problem came back over the winter and Trollhole eventually found it when working on the truck.
 
I keep reading about a "head gasket replacement video". Anyone have one they would be willing to loan / share / sell?
 
Someone in 80 tech tried to re initiate the offering after idahodoug kinda disappeared. Cant recall user name and i know a lot of similar dead end inquiries but may be worth a head gasket dvd search

its a nice helper guide but skips a few steps and should be viewed as a supplement to the FSM but not a replacement. Handy to watch and nice to rewind but not necessary for job.
 
Someone in 80 tech tried to re initiate the offering after idahodoug kinda disappeared. Cant recall user name and i know a lot of similar dead end inquiries but may be worth a head gasket dvd search

its a nice helper guide but skips a few steps and should be viewed as a supplement to the FSM but not a replacement. Handy to watch and nice to rewind but not necessary for job.

Ok cool. Thanks!
 
I just found out i’m Going to have the put all this back together at some point.

:lol: That's always a humbling moment. It's real easy to take it apart :lol:

Since you were checking each cylinder height, I hope you either did that with the cams in, or made sure to count your rotations and rotate back to the original position. Not sure how the timing chain would behave when rotating the engine with the head off.
 
Since you were checking each cylinder height, I hope you either did that with the cams in, or made sure to count your rotations and rotate back to the original position. Not sure how the timing chain would behave when rotating the engine with the head off.

I'm glad you brought that up, I was wondering about that. I checked it first with the head still on by confirming that a mark on my ratchet extension reached the same peak-height in each cylinder as the engine was rotated. I checked it again at the very end with the head off, by rotating the crankshaft and comparing the peak piston height to the cylinder lip. As a precaution I did count the rotations and rotate it backwards when finished so that the #1 & #6 pistons were at their peak again and I confirmed this by making sure that the timing mark on the crankshaft had returned to the "0" position.

Any other precautions you guys can think of, I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 
I don't know how to verify that the timing chain is still in place on the crank without taking out the timing cover. Did you hold upward tension on the chain while rotating the engine with the head off?
 
I don't know how to verify that the timing chain is still in place on the crank without taking out the timing cover. Did you hold upward tension on the chain while rotating the engine with the head off?

Yup, we sure did. As I turned it, a friend was pulling up on it and allowing it to rotate / slip through his hands as the crank was turned. I also marked the top of the timing chain and I verified that it appeared to be back to the same spot after we turned it the opposite direction and realigned the timing mark with the "0".
 
Mighty clean looking engine bay boss. You've been in there a lot.
I hadn't followed the thread but I applaud your care and love. LCs are worth it. Looks like you started about the right time.
 
FYI - Jackson Auto Worx recommend using (Tom in Machine Shop section/division of) Auto Spring Company on Liberty St. in WS. Apparently that's where they send all their work to. Coincidentally, I asked a client today who does a lot of automotive work and he told me the same thing. This sounds like a solid option. Anybody had any dealings with this shop before?
 
Yup, we sure did. As I turned it, a friend was pulling up on it and allowing it to rotate / slip through his hands as the crank was turned. I also marked the top of the timing chain and I verified that it appeared to be back to the same spot after we turned it the opposite direction and realigned the timing mark with the "0".

Sounds like you've got the bases covered then! Nice work!

Haven't used that machine shop before, but consider having them do the following:

- heated pressure test
- valve seals
- valve seat inspection/regrind
- valve guide inspection/re-sleeve
- valve regrind/replace
- head resurface


Now's the time to pony up and do all of the valve work if you want it to be running like a champ for a long time to come.
 
Make sure they store it upright on end after the work is completed.
 
I thought of a better title for this thread: [FZJ-8-my-wallet]
 
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Another update:

I just talked to Onur. Apparently he is not on MUD much anymore and due to his pending move to NY, he is not an option for purchasing parts right now (he hopes to be back up and running in late April). He was kind enough walk me through the part numbers I will need, since I won't really need a full kit due to all the work just performed at Trollhole's. Is FAT the best second option? or is there another source you guys would recommend?
 
Another update:

I just talked to Onur. Apparently he is not on MUD much anymore and due to his pending move to NY, he is not an option for purchasing parts right now (he hopes to be back up and running in late April). He was kind enough walk me through the part numbers I will need, since I won't really need a full kit due to all the work just performed at Trollhole's. Is FAT the best second option? or is there another source you guys would recommend?

:lol: Love the new title.

FAT gives a hefty (22-25%) discount for parts through their site for us, Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories | parts.fredandersontoyota.com - not sure if any WS dealers give discounts, but with FAT's parts website, you can order by part number, see EPC diagrams for the parts, and pay to have the parts shipped to your house once they come in. Super convenient.
 
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