loctite vs anti-seize..... (1 Viewer)

[Live to Ski]

Alrighty.

I purchased a pumper kit from a reputable vendor here on mud with a gazillion pieces.

I have nightmares of threaded connections vibrating loose (will use loctite), while there is vendor concern/direction to use anti-seize in certain situations (stainless on stainless).

Soooooo, how does one prevent anti-seized threaded connections from vibrating loose?

I did a little "poke and hope" on the internet w/r this subject. I found an interesting analysis/test here:

Other that using nyloc nuts, what do the mud gods think on this?

No matter what, I will mark the bolt heads/nuts with permanent marker. Periodic inspection should reveal any loosening as the marks will be misaligned.

Thanks for your consideration!

 

[gnob]

unless you are in the rust belt, or your junk lives wet, i do not use anti sieze.
stainless is one time usage imo
lock washers or stover mechanical locks. nylocks are one time or they fail.

 

[Skleet]

Haven't looked at what the manufacturer said about using anti-seize, thought using said on SS was to stop galling that SS is more prone too.

 

[Live to Ski]

Galling: I will have to see if that is the bumper vendor's concern. I now realize that this is a different concern than corrosion (should have thought more ).

I guess the good thing about galling is that it will never vibrate loose, which is fine by me as I will be dead before I take this thing off.

I'll update once I get vendor clarification.......

 

[bigredmachine]

not to give the total smart ass answer but use a torque wrench if its smaller nuts and bolts, or use an impact gun with a torque extension if its larger bolts. yes i know that using anti seize will change the torque being applied but itll get you close and keep the fastener from being undertorqued. lock washers can work, if the bolts long enough try to double nut the bolt, marking the bolt head or nut like you mentioned is a good way to keep a visual on them backing off. if you really want to put in some work you can drill the nut and bolt for safety wire but i think that would be a bit overkill

 

[sunrk]

Unless the factory service spec says to use Loctite, I always use copper or nickel grease on fasteners. Only exception would be torque-to-yield cylinder head bolts.

SS fasteners are prone to galling if over-tightened.

Always take 20 to 30 percent off the specified torque for any anti-siezed fasteners.