Locking Stock Center Console Mod Idea (1 Viewer)

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Dec 30, 2012
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I ran across a locking center console (for a Jeep Commander) on EP that made me wonder if something similar could be done for our center console. Some good pictures here: http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12782

No, this isn't as secure as a Ft Knox safe, but the price isn't the same either; I figure it will be less than $40 vs $170-$200 for the Ft Knox. Yes, you have to put holes in your console if you use my plan below, but that doesn't really bother me, for most of us a few screw holes is VERY minor. :) This would mostly be for any valuables I want to leave behind when at the beach or something.

It may be a while before I can implement this (no time during the holidays), but here is my plan:
IMAG0818.jpg


I am considering recessing the top of the plate about 2" that would give me space to put some regularly used and easy to move items on top of it and still have a fair amount of space below. It needs to be recessed at least 5/8" anyway (with the combination lock), so by adding 1.5" it becomes usable space instead of wasted space. I would also probably cover the top with drawer liner to prevent some noise.

Parts w/ conservative prices, checked at McMaster-Carr:
~24" 1/2x1/2x1/8" aluminum angle (or channel since I have some already) - $5
~6"x12" Aluminum cover plate - $20 (anodized), $10 (no coating)
~6" Piano Hinge - $3
1x Cam Lock (keyed or combination) - $12
Some 1/2" screws - $3
Foam tape (preferably black) - Optional, behind the angles to fill any gaps.
Total cost: ~$43 if you don't have any of the parts at home.

Thoughts and improvements? I know you all have some.
 
Here's what I will do if you will do?

Make up a cardboard model and proof this out then PM me print or post up. Will also need the hole location for bolt holes or Self Tapping screws?

I will make you one in 1/8 Plate (11ga) and one for myself as well. It wil be welded. I'm thinking to form U shape to make bottom and 2 sides then weld on end plates.

You just pay shipping and it's yours.

I promise you will not be able to punch the top in or you will be going to the hospital.

I'm thinking 3/16 Diamond Plate for the top 6x12 Plate or you want 11 ga plain?

Flat Black paint or I could prolly have powder coated for $25 more (need to chk).

I'm sure there will be others interested as well.
 
Here's what I will do if you will do?

Make up a cardboard model and proof this out then PM me print or post up. Will also need the hole location for bolt holes or Self Tapping screws?

I will make you one in 1/8 Plate (11ga) and one for myself as well. It wil be welded. I'm thinking to form U shape to make bottom and 2 sides then weld on end plates.

You just pay shipping and it's yours.

I promise you will not be able to punch the top in or you will be going to the hospital.

I'm thinking 3/16 Diamond Plate for the top 6x12 Plate or you want 11 ga plain?

Flat Black paint or I could prolly have powder coated for $25 more (need to chk).

I'm sure there will be others interested as well.


This seems like a sweet idea! I would love to see the final project
 
Just to be clear, for my project I was only going to make the top and angle supports and have them screwed directly into the console - no sides or bottom. Without access to the right equipment I didn't want to mess with trying to build a full box and the lid should be enough for my needs. I miss having access to my school's machine and welding shops. :(

I am certainly willing to make a mockup of it either way, but I won't have time until after the first of the year. Extremely busy at work and with the holidays. If you want to take it on yourself before then, that's fine with me. I don't have the equipment or time to actually put together a run of these regardless. This was posted mostly in response to a few old posts asking about locking consoles and having a brain fart as to how it might be done fairly cheap and easy.

A couple answers to your questions, remember, I was going for cheap and easy:
Diamond plate: I hadn't really considered it but it might be a good option. I think I would prefer the flat since I was intending to put some drawer liner on top of it to minimize any rattling.
Paint: I was going to use flat black spray paint or even leave it bare since it was going to be covered. Powder coat would certainly be more durable, just beyond what I need.
Fasteners: I was going to use self-tapping screws into the console. If this ends up as a full box (essentially a safe) then I would want to replace the console bolts at the bottom and probably have an option to go through the body instead of just attaching at the console locations. I would use the Ft Knox thread as a go-by for that.
 
I finally had some time to get back to this so I thought I would give an update.

I ordered parts a couple weeks ago from McMaster Carr, total price was $25 + shipping (~$10) and fastener costs; part numbers listed below for what I used. Cut out most of the pieces last week and installed today. While it could have been better, I am very pleased with the result and think it serve me very well. When I get a pad installed it should look very clean when closed. The one thing that I need to figure out is an easy way to keep it propped open, right now it won't stay open by itself since it hits the hinges for the upper console but I didn't want to leave notches for them which could easily turn into pry locations for a thief.

The basic change I would do next time is find a better tool selection; I only have a cordless drill, a jig saw, and basic mechanics tools. Cutting the plate out neatly and cutting the "double D" hole for the lock were the most challenging parts and didn't end up as nice as I was hoping. I ended up having to file out most of the double-D hole since my saw blade didn't fit. Ugh.

Parts:
  • 1x 6x12x1/8" Aluminum plate (cut down to ~5.5" x 10") - 8975K921
  • 2x 12" 1"x1/2"x1/8" Aluminum angles (cut into 2x 10" pieces and 1x 2" piece) - 8982k91
    • It would be better to have 1x 24" angle, cut into 2x 10" pieces and 1x 4" piece.
  • 1x 12" Aluminum piano hinge (Cut down to 5") - 1581A521
  • 1x Combination Cam Lock - 7138A14
  • 14x 3/8" stainless self-tapping screws (1 box) - If these don't end up working and start backing out, I have some screws that are meant for plastic that I will try (tri-lobe type).
  • 4x rivets (to attach the lid to the hinge so there aren't any screws accessible.)
I still need to install a cover over the plate to prevent rattling and maybe install some edge trim on the lower pieces to also prevent rattling. Right now I just have some electrical tape on the latch angle to provide some rattle prevention which is why it is black instead of aluminum colored. I have considered just using some plasti-dip but I don't really want to take this out again to do that properly.

Current pics attached. I will try to add a loaded up picture when I get the anti-rattle felt/padding installed.
Closed.jpg

Open.jpg
 

Attachments

  • ConsolePlan.pdf
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Love it! It's actually where I started with my mod but wanted something more secure. But this is a really nice build.
 
Thank you! Although, if I hadn't already ordered parts when your lock box was first mentioned I would have waited. It wasn't so expensive that I can't yank it out and seal the holes if I end up needing something more secure down the road too. :)

Out will be easier than in; to pre-drill the holes on the long sides I don't have a drill that will fit in the console that direction so I ended up using an old keyed drill chuck and spinning it by hand. That method of drilling worked surprisingly well though and I only had one problem with a hole not lining up which was more due to the console straightening up to match the aluminum angle than me drilling in the wrong place. I hadn't realized how not straight the interior of the console is until I got the angles in there. The angles really add rigidity to the inside of the console as well, not that I have ever heard of an issue there.
 
This is a cool idea. Nice work.
 
Thank you! Although, if I hadn't already ordered parts when your lock box was first mentioned I would have waited. It wasn't so expensive that I can't yank it out and seal the holes if I end up needing something more secure down the road too. :)

Seriously its a really solid idea and execution.

I hadn't realized how not straight the interior of the console is until I got the angles in there. The angles really add rigidity to the inside of the console as well, not that I have ever heard of an issue there.

Oh very well aware ;)
 
I like this.

A little stick on foam should provide enough resistance on compression to prevent rattles.
 
Here is a final image with some Wit's End swag.

Not seen are some self-stick felt tabs (for the feet of chairs) on the bottom of the door to prevent rattles.

Finished.jpg
 

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