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Locking Locker Manually

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by warpdriv, Mar 24, 2004.

  1. warpdriv

    warpdriv

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    Can one lock a locker manually? I read the FF rebuild thread and my rear locker is not enguaging.

    That being asked, what are somethings to look at with a locker will not enguage.

    TIA,
     
  2. Big_Moose

    Big_Moose

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    Warp

    You can remove the actuator motor and manually push the shift fork / collar to lock the rear diff.

    To test if your locker is engaging or not:
    - Jack the Cruiser up / all four wheels can free spin
    - turn the ignition on & no need to start truck
    - Manually turn the rear wheels / they turn in opposing directions
    - Turn the locker switch to RR
    - manually spin the wheels / the locker either engages or not - if engage the wheels turn in the same
    direction.

    If it is engaging but the dash lights are still blinking then you now its the indicator switch.

    - remove the switch from the actuator housing & jump the two terminals. If the dash light is solid with the jumped indicator switch, then the switch is bad or going bad - generally the ball detent of the switch gets worn. You can replace the indicator switch or use a thinner washer to allow greater pressure / engagement of the switch, which sometimes fixes the problem.

    If the rear doesn't lock then it could be the actuator motor...........so you need to pull the actuator and physically try to engage the locker. Rotate the rear wheel while pushing the shift fork to engage the locker. Cleaning up the motor contacts and removing old harden grease generally fixes most stuck locker problems.

    Joe
     
  3. Chris_Geiger

    Chris_Geiger

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    The first thing I would check is to make sure the center diff is locking. Is the yellow center diff lock light on the dash coming on? If so have you tried driving the truck 100' or so at low speed to allow the locker to come on?
     
  4. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I lock my rear Locker manually all the time :D
    Then again thats the only way I can lock the rear diff :-\ :whoops:
     
  5. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    well, in Joe's sequence up there, shouldn't you also put it in Low if you don't have a separate CDL switch? Otherwise seems to me it'll never engage
    E
     
  6. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    [quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=13662;start=msg126632#msg126632 date=1080181772]
    well, in Joe's sequence up there, shouldn't you also put it in Low if you don't have a separate CDL switch? Otherwise seems to me it'll never engage
    E


    [/quote]

    You're learning :cheers:
     
  7. Big_Moose

    Big_Moose

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    e999

    Sorry about that -> I always assume everyone has the CDL installed & knows its function / relationship to the lockers

    Joe
     
  8. alp61

    alp61

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    This may be a really stupid question, but I was under the impression that all 80 LCs had center differentials which can be locked manually (whether or not this can be activated from the dashboard). Is this true or am I being overly optimistic since my LC does not have the factory locker option?
     
  9. thelal

    thelal

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    Sometimes the pressure switch gets 'clogged'. Take it out (requires a large deep socket after disconnecting connecter) and measure the Ohms resitance on it.
    Put some cleaner (carb or something like that) on the ball as u push it in and out. Then do the same but used compressed air to try and get past as u push the ball in and out. Then measure the Ohm's on it and see difference.

    To manually lock u need to take the motor actuator cover off (3 screws - Philips head) and then rotate the motor windings. One way (can't remember direction) will push the worm drive to wind up the spring, which will then push the fork into the housing when an opening lines up (wheel turns into correct spot). The other way will unwind (which if not locked will just get stiffer and can't turn) the fork/spring. Put cover back on and drive. Your rear diff locked light 'should' light up on the dash (but may not if it has a problem - wiring, dirty, bad connection) and doesn't always mean it has not locked.
    To ensure its locked u can jack up both rear wheels (have it in low) and when u have the motor/winding turned and wound up, turn a wheel and wait to hear the click/thunk as the fork engages. Once locked u'll feel it in the wheel (as in can't move now).

    However its easier to get the motor to engage via 9v/12v supply to the connector (see Warthog comments) - than taking the cover off. However if that doesn't work then the manual method can.
    I had similiar issues and eventually diagnosed it to bad connection/wiring on pressure switch, loose magnets in cover, bad commutors on motor. Was a pain to figure it out and fix but worth it compared to lying underneath and manually dialing it in/out.

    Have plenty of pics and more info for checking if u need further help. Drop me an email.
     
  10. RavenTai

    RavenTai

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    be careful if turning the motor with the cover off, without the cover to hold it in the armature may be pushed out, no damage will occur but the brushes and the springs behind them will dislodge they can be a pain to reinstall especially wile the actuator is still under the truck, I have disassembled 2 rear actuators the first one was from up north wth some minor corrosion throughout the armature was stuck in place I assume rusted to the bearings inner race we could rotate this one without it popping out, mine was free in the bearing witch made it difficult to use the motor to turn the actuator

    I made some clips out of wire to hold the brushes in place wile installing the armature/worm gear assy

    [​IMG]

    pic above shows brush area with armature partially installed, the silver looking wire is holding the brush in place against spring pressure, after putting the armature in place pull the clips and the brushes pop into place

    take note the motor cover has 2 small nubs pressed into the sheet metal they match 2 holes in the main housing to ensure proper installation in the dark they would be easy to miss

    wile you are doing the rear repack might also be a good time to rebuild the actuator if you have the time, the actuator is not hard to work with but if you damage anything and cannot fit it you will have to buy another actuator
     
  11. mabrodis

    mabrodis

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    [quote author=alp61 link=board=2;threadid=13662;start=msg126867#msg126867 date=1080234239]
    This may be a really stupid question, but I was under the impression that all 80 LCs had center differentials which can be locked manually (whether or not this can be activated from the dashboard). Is this true or am I being overly optimistic since my LC does not have the factory locker option?
    [/quote]

    All 80-series (well 93-97 atleast) have a center diff lock. The center diff lock has a actuator, not unlike the front and rear lockers, if you vehicle has those. Normally (i.e. from the factory), when you put the vehicle in low-range, the t/c shifts into LOW, and the computer locks the center differential by itself, also the ABS is disabled, which is brilliant by the way, find another vehicle that's smart enough to do that! Anyway, if you install the center diff locker switch (CDL) then you can manaully (not really manually, but pushing the button) lock the center diff. The advantage to this is you can drive in HIGH range, but still have the center diff locked (and therefore could engage your front/rear lockers if you wanted to), and you can also drive in LOW and have the center diff unlocked, so you just control it yourself. The ABS is disabled anytime the center diff is locked.

    Ironically the 100-series have the center diff lock switch from the factory, which is odd on a nicer, more luxurious vehicle, with arguably less 4wheeling in mind.

    Good Luck,
    Mark Brodis