locking hub removal and replacement - help! (1 Viewer)

[Super77]

I removed one of my locking hubs - just the outermost part containing the rotating gold switch and the black ring - and forgot to note the position it was in before removal. How important is this? In putting it back, it seems that it can only go back in one of two orientations. The inner teeth seem to prevent the other four possibilities. My logical brain tells me it shouldn't matter, but I've never had one of these apart and I may be missing something. I drove the truck about half a block in FREE and heard/felt nothing concerning.

Guidance?

 

[micruz60]

Not a major problem, align the teeth and make sure the spring compresses and the lockout works.
Check the FSM for verification.

 

[Output Shaft]

It's hard to say if everything was done correctly. Review the hub section in the manual. See attached.

If you followed the instructions, you're good to go. You can jack up a front wheel & lock the hubs & turn the wheel & observe the front driveshaft to ensure that the hub is actually locking & unlocking. Check it that way on both wheels.

 

[Super77]

It's hard to say if everything was done correctly. Review the hub section in the manual. See attached.

If you followed the instructions, you're good to go. You can jack up a front wheel & lock the hubs & turn the wheel & observe the front driveshaft to ensure that the hub is actually locking & unlocking. Check it that way on both wheels.

It's this last step in the FSM that's relevant to my situation since I only removed the cover assembly, but I wish there was a closeup photo or a better explanation of what "follower pawl tab" is. There still seems to be two possible orientations, but I'll remove and re-check.

 

[Super77]

OK, should have reviewed the exploded view first. It looks like the PAWL needs to fit into the NON-TOOTHED PORTION of the FREE WHEEL HUB BODY. There are two non-toothed portions, hence the two possible orientations at 180 deg to each other. However the SCREW on the CONTROL HANDLE is a half-turn, so perhaps the orientation doesn't matter?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Pawl and spring assembly must be done correctly or it won't engage and disengage properly.

 

[Output Shaft]

Correct. There are two positions 180° from each other on the hub body that will work. The ones you've circled.
You've got it.

 

[Super77]

View attachment 1439520 Pawl and spring assembly must be done correctly or it won't engage and disengage properly.

Yep, but I never had any of these sub-parts disassembled. I only removed the outermost ring assembly as a single piece.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Super77,
I think the hub spring assembly must be installed in the compressed (aka open) position? The "outermost ring" is the free wheel hub cover I assume?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

There's a video link of this somewhere on mud. I've watched it. Sorry can't help beyond that. It was an oops find.

 

[Super77]

There's a video link of this somewhere on mud. I've watched it. Sorry can't help beyond that. It was an oops find.

Couple of videos on YouTube on rebuilding Toyota Aisin hubs. One suggests it's OK either of two ways, the other says use trial-and-error to find the orientation that fits.

Can I rant just a bit? This should have been a 5 minute search. There are so many personal build threads that cover dozens of topics with misleading titles like "Big Bertha's Badass Build" that nothing with a useful title comes up with a logical keyword search like "installing locking hubs". Sure, I can dig through each of them, or I can just start a new thread, adding to the mess. I'd bet my rig that I'm not the first person to ask this question or to have it answered.

/end rant

 

[micruz60]

The embedded search on the forum is not the greatest, I have better luck searching with google, which usually puts me right back in Mud, but with good search results... ymmv

 

[Output Shaft]

Yeah, Mud tech isn't an organized how-to for every assembly on the truck. It's more of personal blog for lots of guys and a question answer forum for others.
There are also a few straight how-to threads scattered around, but there aren't really that many of them.

Nobody (myself included) remembers to enter obvious search query tags in their answers so that the rudimentary search engine on this site can find relevant information. So the search engine on this site often sucks. But it is what it is. Everyone has to dig for the answers buried in threads, often with failed attempts with search strings that don't work.

But your question specifically about the hubs is uncommon so there's not much to find. Follow @micruz60 's advice in the future & search through Google instead. After your search term enter a space then :site ih8mud.com

But now that you created this thread (and future threads maybe) always try to post an answer or conclusion to the initial topic to help out the next guy trying to find out the same thing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If you only removed one, then why not pull the other and compare them? Or am I missing something above I didn't read...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Not exactly what I was looking for but maybe this would help?
Off-Road.Com - - AISIN hubs - Indentifying and rebuilding

 

[hj 60]

Mud should have busy people having separate topics in their build instead of one long thread (engine, brakes, driveline, etc.)
That is why I like freeforums because you just keep adding topics until you die
anyway on freeforums I stored this hub link that is fabulous and many cruisers have messed up locks that can be repaired (reinstalled correctly) instead of replaced.
My friend bought a 60 with a non moving in the middle position stuck hub lock and repaired it with help of this link:

Rebuilding Aisin locking hub Locking hub rebuild

video to:


freeforums my link with usefull front axle stuff: hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Birf-propeller-shaft-diff-yoke-flange-spider-snap

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The link above the video is the one I was thinking of that I had seen. Lots of great closeup clear well lit pictures.