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Mar 27, 2003
Georgia Tech
I need lockers. But my 40 is also my DD, and my highway ATV tow rig. It sees a lot of road miles in between the trail miles, but the trail miles it sees are muddy and slippery, and open diffs front and rear are no longer cutting it. I like the fact that ARB's are selectable, but some (Junk) don't like them and consider them crap. I have a hard time seeing me breaking an ARB. What I can't find are installation prices and how much the thing costs. I think its around $650? My rear R&P needs replacing anyway, so someones gonna be in the rear sometime soon anyway. I'm thinking that detroit wouldn't be good since mine sees a good many road miles, and I can't sit around and wait for that electric locker/LSD to come around the Cruisers, theres no tellin how long it will take. What I'm lookin for are personal experience with different lockers, cost and how much of a PITA they were to install/get installed.
My rear is welded and it's not that bad on the highway unless the tire pressure is low. Not noticeable but on tight cornering. I would do it on a DD if it has PS.
My rear is welded and it's not that bad on the highway unless the tire pressure is low. Not noticeable but on tight cornering. I would do it on a DD if it has PS.
PS isn't in my near future so welded is a no go.
I have ARBs front and rear. I love them. Check I got mine for $525 ea. shipped.
Personally, I don't think that you are going to even notice a locker out on the highway. I only notice mine with tight turns in a parking lot. I guess it depends on how sensitive you are to their manners.

ARBs are fine lockers (actually a selectable spool). It is the best off road performance mod that you can do.
I'm not worried about highway, I do most of my driving on 2 lane sorry Atlanta potholed yet 45 mph roads. Thats what I'm worried about. Yeah my minds set. &nbsp:Dual ARB's on York onboard air setup. Thanks guys. Any of you that had them installed, how much did you pay for installation?
Since I've been stuying this alot lately too. I'll chime in on the ARB camp side. I was just following a thread on the pirate forum about ARB customer service. The short version is basically that on those rare occasions where ARB's do break they are very good about standing behind their product. This is from guys using them in dana60's in competition with lots of hp. The only downside fo the ARB's I can discern is that they require experienced or proffessional installation and they cost a little more than twice a lokrite. I think the lokrite has a place also particularly for those off us running toyota axles. For some reason the lokrites seem works better in toyotas than in the american axles. :beer:
I have ARB's F&R in a Disco. They are GREAT. I have not had one problem. Expecially in the front. ;) I can't say how much a pro install will run you, my lockers were in the truck when I bought it.

However, I have heard from lots of guys that the most important thing is to be sure that they are installed correctly. ALL of the problems I have heard of were the result of incorrect install. Expecially faulty plumbing of the air lines to the pumpkin.

ARB your rig, have the install done by an experienced pro, and ENJOY.

my $.02
I recently had ARBs FR/RR installed in my 62.  I saved a little money by removing and taking the 3rd to a toyota mechanic and having the ARB/4.88 setup, including drilling the housing for airline.  I then just installed the rebuilt chunk and hooked up my compressor (ARB), switcheds, etc.  Cost me about $200 per axle to have an ASE tech do it.

2 cents:  I think the YORK compressor is nice but may be overkill and is overpriced.  For just tires and occasional impact wrench,  I think a powertank would be more versatile and suffice.

I too bought from ReiderRacing. They have the best prices, by far.
60 thirds bolt into 40 axle housings? What about the u joint flanges? ??? Man that sure would be nice... if it all bolts in.
if you look at the flanges they have the round flange on them. just drill them out with your 40 bolt pattern if they don't bolt up...i am pretty sure they don't bolt up though....if the price is right this is deffinitly the way to go...a local guy just got quoted 1100.00? for a single ARB install i know of another member that spent about 3K to get arbs and gears in his 80. I would pull the diffs and bring them somewere and have them do it..probably the cheapest way unless you do it yourself....

But what about the 60 thirds going into the axle? Cause that sure would be a smokin deal if it stayed below 8-900 bucks.
Cruisin - dude, go any other way than ARB's. Well, that's my opinion and mine have been set up by 2 different shops, yet, still, mucho problemo.

My vote would be elockers or run 'em with cable.
I've been running a lockrite in the rear my mine for 4 years, first with 33" tires now SOA with 37"tires. I driven it to MOAB and back, 575 miles one way, you don't even know it's there after you get use to it and that takes about a week.

I believe a 60 3rd would fit into a 40 if the years are correct. For example, I am almost positive a late model 40 drivetrain (ie 76-later, check prod. date) is equivalent to a 60 w.r.t. the 3rd, birfs, brakes, etc. Obviously, axles are diff. lengths. I have an '82 fj40 and its chunks are identical to the chunks on my '88 fj62, as far as I can tell.
60 thirds will BOLT in the 40 housings. Early housings used 8 mm studs, later they went to 10mm. The gear ratio's were different stock after 79, till the 62's and auto's.
Is '74 considered early since it has the coarse spline birfs? I'm guessing the 8mm vs 10mm bolts are a problem? These 60 thirds have already been converted to 4.11 gears.

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