Locker Testing Question: ECU Not Responding (1 Viewer)

[CaptBeardilocks]

I'm testing an in-op on my rear locker and trying to track down where the fault is. The first thing I'd like to get out of the way is that the actuators function.

Is there any reason not to run them in & out with 12v at the actuator, with the harness disconnected?

Thanks.

EDIT: Upon further testing & study here at Mud Uni this is my situation:

Both actuators were rebuilt about a year ago, clocked (hopefully correctly), and installed on the axles. I’ve only just now got the project to a point where there’s battery power and the truck is moving under its own power.

When I turn the key on the Locker ECU in the passenger footwell clicks and lights up both lights on the dash. After a few seconds it clicks again shuts one light off. The rear locker is actually locked because of install, When I hooked the battery up, I had the locker dial switch set to rear locked and expected to switch to unlock and have the actuator unlock it.

However, when I turn the locker dial switch to rear or to both, the ECU doesn’t make a peep. No click or anything. So obviously it’s not going to run the motors.

I have a spare selector dial and swapped that out with no change.

What would cause the ECU to fire up when you turn the key, but not respond to the dial selector? It DOES blink the locker light on the dash when I turn the switch. Do I have a bad ground somewhere? Is it possible one or both actuators is clocked wrong and not grounding out? I feel like the ECU should still do something.

 

[Grandlooser]

I wouldn't. Instead check for power TO the actuator and go from there.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

I do have power to the actuator.

My concern with running it without the computer is running the motor past the clocking points. No idea if that's possible or not.

 

[Grandlooser]

Yeah it's a worm drive and there's plastic gears. Given how common the issue I would bet money it's toast. Take it apart and look, might be saveable. Mine looked like a handful of gravel and welding slag inside the motor.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Updated my original post after I learned a bit more. Sort of strange set of circumstances. Any help is appreciated. I read a number of threads but couldn't find a test for this issue.

 

[landtank]

first of all the the center diff lock must be active and confirmed locked before any attempt is made to lock the diffs. The confirmation comes from a switch on the t-case and that switch is a known no locker problem.

 

[Grandlooser]

Of course, the captain obvious stuff. OP, you did engage the transfer case right?...

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Okey dokey. I’d much rather proved an idiot than have to disassemble my actuators again. Lol. Did not know the Center had to be locked with pin7. Glad I know that now.

Locking the center diff (pin7 mod/CDL switch) I can hear the actuator motor lock the center and light confirms lock. NOW I can hear the ECU relays click when I turn the F/R dial.

…But no actuator motor noise or lock/unlock on either front or rear. So I guess I pull the actuators and see if they’ll run outside of the housings. I highly doubt both F & R have wiring loom issues….

 

[Squash]

Do yourself a favour and put the truck on jack stands. Stands will allow you to easily lock and unlock and of course see what happens at ground level. Have you checked the 30amp diff fuse!
Do the ff/rr lights flash on the dash?

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Fuse is good. Truck has been jacked up for most of this. The Locker ECU is responding to the dial switch and the dash lights function. Just no response from the freshly rebuilt actuators. Possibly clocked wrong or… ? Next step is to pull the actuators.

 

[Squash]

Best practice is to lock when removing.
In your case take out the front motor inside you will see gear teeth, using your finger or screwdriver slide the gear to both sides. One side is lock and the other unlocked.
Cycle the switch and see if the motor turns. If alone use your camera video. Be sure to check the match marks on motor as this is where you need to be for locked.
Leave the power hooked up until you decide to pull the motor and inspect. Once open regrease and clean.
Check magnets.
Good luck.

 

[Irish Reiver]

@landtank has a great thread which shows how to overhaul the motor and actuator and how to clock it properly. Fairly straightforward when you do it.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Ok, I solved this today. It's funny that you mention Landtanks thread because what happened to me is what happened to him on one of his actuators as well.

When you re-glue the magnets in the motor housing, you have to alternate polarity due to, you know, how electric motors work. BUT that doesn't guarantee rotational direction will be correct. In all the threads I've read, no one has specified exact magnet placement to ensure correct rotational direction.

And I won the lottery on wrong. Both my actuators were spinning the wrong direction. I hadn't tested before I installed them because when I installed them the axle were in a different building that rest of the truck.

A quick flip of the positive & negative wires in the harness on the actuator took care of the situation. Both work great now.

 

[landtank]

To be able to predict rotation you would need to be able to identify magnetic polarity of the pair of magnets. That can be a challenge with basic hand tools.
Glad you have it figured out.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

I used a compass to determine polarity when gluing the magnets back in but obviously had something backwards in my head since I got BOTH actuators reversed.

I had used this guide when I rebuilt them and thought I’d gotten it right.

Repairing Differential E-Lockers

Neither of my electronic differential locks was engaging, so I thought I was unfortunately in need of undertaking an E-locker repair. I searched 80 threads for the what and how of removing, tearing down, rehabilitating and reassembling stuck lockers, but was a bit disappointed to find there...

forum.ih8mud.com

I will say that the @landtank method of letting the computer clock the actuators is WAY easier the manual method. Drove myself crazy with that the first time. Brilliant mate.

And here’s the Landtank write-up we all keep referencing. For posterity.

locker actuator rebuild

I was asked to see what I might be able to do with a set of non working actuators. So I though I'd start a thread in hopes of helping others. Now these are really in a bad way and the outcome might not be what I'm hoping for but at least some of what I post might be useful. Being from New...

forum.ih8mud.com