location of power lock relays/fuses? (1 Viewer)

[fruitjack]

-right off the bat: I know about the fuse under the fuse box area and I know about the pair of relays around the rear washer fluid reservoir - neither of these things are the cause of my problems.

this is an 89 FJ62; I'm trying to understand why the only power lock that works is the driver's door (my gut tells me it's the wiring's age reducing the current to the other solendoids); I haven't yet gone through the other solenoids to measure the voltages they're getting; I do know the lift gate solenoid is good (as I've tested it by hooking it up to a 12v power supply directly). The master switch on the driver's door is essentially new, and since its power lock works (and the power windows work everywhere) I'm ruling that out as the cause.

OK, so before I go totally nuts trying to rewire stuff I'd like to know what other failure points might there be - is there a dedicated power lock relay or another fuse somewhere? I've read a few threads that mention that the liftgate solenoid has it's own fuse but I can't figure out where it would be located.

- let me also add this - when I first got her I had to reset the power lock fuse just to get anything to happen; the driver's door always worked; the front passenger door would lock but not unlock and for the past few months it doesn't even do that anymore; the rear doors and liftgate simply never worked.

 

[g-man]

Have you removed any of the door cards to verify that the lock solenoid is NOT working? I have a 60 but 62 lock solenoids and the linkage can get sticky. So even though the lock solenoids are activating they are not strong enough to over come the sticky linkage. I occasionally pull the door cards, lubricate the linkage and get them all working.

 

[BMValentine]

check the linkage as mentioned, there is also a fix for power locks that adds 2 relays to the circuit, that makes the locks fly up and down.

Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread: Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32 Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51 Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83 Most of...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[g-man]

While you have the door cards out you can verify the wire terminals are connected to the solenoids. If the solenoid is not moving internally (clunking) or trying to move, test for current when you activate the lock button by putting multi-tester probes at the wire terminals on the solenoid. Determine if you have a bad solenoid, lack of current or sticking linkage.

 

[fruitjack]

Have you removed any of the door cards to verify that the lock solenoid is NOT working? I have a 60 but 62 lock solenoids and the linkage can get sticky. So even though the lock solenoids are activating they are not strong enough to over come the sticky linkage. I occasionally pull the door cards, lubricate the linkage and get them all working.

yesterday I pulled out the two front doorcards; the passenger side solenoid just wouldn't respond. I didn't have a volt meter on me but I did have a spare solenoid that I also know works - I hooked up the wiring to that solenoid and it too didn't respond so the wiring either doesn't deliver 12 volts or the current required (or both). I'm currently fixing the the felt strips in the doorcards so I'll be back later to check that out more thoroughly.

 

[fruitjack]

While you have the door cards out you can verify the wire terminals are connected to the solenoids. If the solenoid is not moving internally (clunking) or trying to move, test for current when you activate the lock button by putting multi-tester probes at the wire terminals on the solenoid. Determine if you have a bad solenoid, lack of current or sticking linkage.

I'm kicking myself that I didn't pull out the rear door cards yesterday; I'll check that out soon.

 

[fruitjack]

check the linkage as mentioned, there is also a fix for power locks that adds 2 relays to the circuit, that makes the locks fly up and down.

Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread: Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32 Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51 Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83 Most of...

forum.ih8mud.com

at least the front passenger door had all the linkages intact; haven't checked out the rears yet

 

[fruitjack]

check the linkage as mentioned, there is also a fix for power locks that adds 2 relays to the circuit, that makes the locks fly up and down.

Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread: Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32 Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51 Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83 Most of...

forum.ih8mud.com

If all else fails that might be were I go

 

[g-man]

You can get some jumper wires and go from battery to the solenoid and touch them to the contacts at the solenoid to see if you can activate the solenoid. But still get a multi meter...I mean you have a 30 plus year old vehicle and you can't afford to let someone else do the work. With a multi meter you can chase the wiring back to the relays and the switch and find out why there is no current.

 

[fruitjack]

welp I figured out why the rear power locks never worked.... the passenger side contained the (dead) oem solenoid disconnected from the locking mechanism. the driver side, wow, the oem solenoid was also dead and instead of replacing it or leaving it be, the PO inserted & wired another solenoid into the area behind it. this too was disconnected, mechanically, from the lock. I removed the hack since it obviously died as well. I can live with the rear door locks being non functional; at this point, even if I wanted to restore it, finding the metal rod to connect solenoid to lock would be near impossible (for a reasonable price, if at all). So my current priority it so restore the liftgate and front passenger power locks.

I also tested for voltage and continuity. Voltages stayed at zero at the rear doors and liftgate & they all passed the continuity test. These facts were unchanged when I pressed the masterswitch in either direction. I removed the fuse from under the dash - of course no voltage or current anymore BUT there was still continuity even when I pressed the masterswitch. I figure that in its 'natural' state the circuit that powers the solenoids is kept at zero volts by a relay that connects everything to ground. Is there another relay(s) (besides the two at the rear)?

 

[g-man]

continuity was tested from where to where? I would test it from downstream side of the switch to the incoming on the relay or if no relay incoming on the solenoid. Is there current from fuse thru the ignition /acc to switch? Shouldn't the incoming side of the switch be hot when the key is on?

 

[fruitjack]

continuity was tested from where to where? I would test it from downstream side of the switch to the incoming on the relay or if no relay incoming on the solenoid. Is there current from fuse thru the ignition /acc to switch? Shouldn't the incoming side of the switch be hot when the key is on?

i should go back and do a more thorough investigation; when i go back to fix my doors again i'll do just that. my proriorities did shift a bit once i got the hatch lock to work, mechanically but i'd still like both of my front doors to work too....

question/observation - are the power locks only supposed to work with the key in the ignition (and set to ACC. just like the power windows?) because if so that's not ever been my experience with her. yes, power windows must have the key to acc but power lock always worked with or without key. this does change how i have to test for stuff.

 

[g-man]

I wasn't sure about the wiring going thru the ACC/ign but looking at this 1985 production vehicle schematic it looks like they do not.

power source "B" comes off the white fusible link at the battery and does not go to the ignition.