Local fj40 value?? (1 Viewer)

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DustyFJ

DustyFJ

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Jun 2, 2009
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62
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Location
Woodbine, MD
I found a 40 semi local (3 hours or so) that has been sitting for 10 years and doesnt start but the body looks like its in pretty good shape. I'm waiting for some more pics. This seems like just what I've been looking for, an unmodified 40 with original paint.

4300 seems a little high for a truck that doesnt run, but the body looks like it could be in good shape and the guy is willing to horse trade for a 4 wheeler I'm selling.

Here's a pic

Does that price seem about right for this area??

fj40.jpg
 
they're getting harder to find. When i drive around people, even kids, actually know what it is instead of saying "cool jeep." I think that if you're horse trading, why not.
You want to rub a diaper on it or drive it?
 
Not to be a debbie downer, but don't trust pictures. I see rust on the underside of the hood. If it has been sitting outside, I can almost guarantee there is rust in the wheel well seam and foot well of the side that was the lowest. The bezel is upside down as well. :hillbilly:
I do love the patina of the original red paint.
 
If you think $4,300 is "a little high" for a truck that won't start and hasn't been driven in 10 years, you and I should have a chat about my 40. :D
 
Seriously, I think that's way too much for a roller. For 4K, I think the truck should run and drive solidly or the body and frame should be absolutely pristine.
 
Take a good look at it, doesnt look bad for a 73 or 74. I agree with you, 4300 is high for a non running truck. Make sure the engine isn't siezed, but then again it might not be but still have a bad lower end. Also the brake cylinders are sure to be frozen. It also depends on what your plans are for it and how far you want to go with it.
 
Looks pretty good to me, i'd have to see it in person of course.

The million dollar question is: is this a barn find or has it been sitting in a field. If in a barn, or garage, then maybe. If it sat in a field then probably not.


If the frame was really nice, the wiring harness was in good shape and it cranked but did not start it might not be a bad deal at $3500 especially if not rusty in other areas or has nice seats, dash and is not missing anything off the motor. If I was in the market and all of the things I usually look at were solid, I might pay more. Even if it does not run, you can still run a compression test, check the tie rods, drive shafts, steering box, center arm, drag link, wheel bearings, play at the e brake drum, check to see if the ebrake works, look at the fluid in the cases and axles, check the oil for water, see if the tank is full of crap and rusted up, check all of the brake lines and fuel lines, check the frame in the very rear and where the inner and outer frames are riveted together at the area in front of rear springs, check the front frame horns for being bent or other signs of crash, etc, stock carb and exhaust manifolds, smog gear, jack, etc

If you are mechanically inclined, it might not be a bad truck but if not it could be very expensive to drop off at a mechanic with carte blance to fix anything wrong with it.

I once paid $5000 for a truck very much like this but it was a documented one owner, low mileage truck. It had complete service records, it was recently serviced and had been driven recently. Had very minor rust. Owner said it ran terribly and then died. I drained the gas into an oil container, put in fresh gas and it ran great. It also had one bad plug wire. I fixed all of the stuff wrong with it, drove it for a year and then sold it for twice as much once it was all sorted out. All I did was fix one little rust hole in the floor and take off all the pep boys crap.

Odds are though that there are lot of things wrong it and it may in fact not be a good deal. Go take a good hard look, give yourself a few hours and let us know what you find!
 
The guy said on the phone that after talking to his brother the motor is out of an early eighties maybe 82? I dont know if that makes a difference. I'm still waiting on more pictures. He also said on the phone that the motor wasnt seized and he has not tried to turn it by hand but it was running rough and having "fuel delivery problems" and thats why it was parked. I'm not sure exactly what to make of that...

Thanks for all the input, If I cant get this one for a reasonable price I'll just keep saving and waiting till I can get the one I want

I'd like to end up with a clean, mostly stock, mild wheeler that I can drive on longer camping/hunting trips and putt around town in.

I want to find one that hasnt been painted and has an original hard top, they just dont seem to pop up too often on the east coast.

I'm still working on felix, I have to convince him to take my 4 wheeler in trade for his 40;)
 
After thinking about it more, and drinking plenty of whiskey, I'd also like to have the longer benches in the rear and doo doo brown in a perfect world...and air lockers...and possibly an h55 transmission, need to research that further..
 
LandCruiser1988 said:
After thinking about it more, and drinking plenty of whiskey, I'd also like to have the longer benches in the rear and doo doo brown in a perfect world...and air lockers...and possibly an h55 transmission, need to research that further..
Click to expand...

:lol: you're a strong person, after plenty of whiskey I'd wake up the next morning and the damn thing would be sitting in the driveway.
 
LandCruiser1988 said:
After thinking about it more, and drinking plenty of whiskey, I'd also like to have the longer benches in the rear and doo doo brown in a perfect world...and air lockers...and possibly an h55 transmission, need to research that further..
Click to expand...

Thornton said:
:lol: you're a strong person, after plenty of whiskey I'd wake up the next morning and the **** thing would be sitting in the driveway.
Click to expand...

Paul, you better go check your driveway.
 
heres a few more pics from this guy, rust has eaten the rear sill away, still a 2k truck??

100_3923.jpg


100_3929.jpg


100_3933.jpg
 
$2k is a decent starting point... If otber things are ok, meaning the engine turns over, the oil doesn't look like chocolate milk,the brakes aren't siezed and the coolant isn't brown or oily.
I'd say it's worth a look, depending on your budget and fab skills.
 
a few more pics

I think it's a good project for you

These are pics of how to brace up the body before you start cutting out the rust. leave the doors on, they are critical for body alinement!

Measure from top of WS frame back to edge of tail gate. Also a critical measurement!

DSCN0049.jpg


Bob Jan 2004 c 036.jpg


DSCN0065.jpg
 
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That's a cream puff. The body looks in no worse shape than any I've brought home, it actually looks better than mine did. Having the original paint is a plus. Counting the 2 that Josh bought we had a total of 5, not all at the same time. prices ranged from $1000 to $2375. Engines ran in all, towed home 2 drove home 3, brake cylinders had issues in all of them I would say after sitting 10 years you'll be replacing or rebuilding all 8 wheel cylinders. Check the frame real good 2 of the ones the frame was toast. $2000 might not be a bad price but I think I'd start low and not go higher than that.
By the way the first one I bought was seen thru beer goggles, Barney purple and a 6ft snow plow on it. Frame shot and lots of bondo under the purple paint. Lesson learned. It finally took combining the second one and the one I bought from kulangot to get mine on the road. Lots of time and I don't keep track of how much I've spent, that thought scares me.
It really depends on what you're willing to get into. :cheers:
 
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