Builds LJ78...Shooting for 250hp (1 Viewer)

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Mr. GTSSC... there is a balance between fuel delivery & thermal efficiency.. the higher the thermal efficiency the less fuel is required to achieve the same output.. I'm already getting more than your max hp #'s with the original denso pump, Japanese resistors & stock injectors.. sometimes I feel that forum information is totally based on Fred Flintstone technology.. me.. I've been doing mechanical & controls design optimization for more than 50 years.. so I agree to disagree
Cheers

I highly doubt you're making more power than I am. Put it on a dyno and share your results and I'll believe you though.

The major limit to thermal efficiency of the IDI motors is the precombustion chamber. It looses tremendous heat into the coolant system. This is why turbo IDI engines are so easy to overheat. You haven't done anything to the precombustion chambers as far as I'm aware.

This is why DI engines are so much more efficient. They use a bowl in the piston as their 'precombustion chamber'. The piston is more isolated from the cooling system, so looses less heat; thus is more efficient. It's also why DI engines crack pistons when the EGTs are too high.

But you know all this right?

I'm glad you're pushing the limits and trying new things. But please don't mislead people unless you have proof of your claims.
 
I highly doubt you're making more power than I am. Put it on a dyno and share your results and I'll believe you though.

The major limit to thermal efficiency of the IDI motors is the precombustion chamber. It looses tremendous heat into the coolant system. This is why turbo IDI engines are so easy to overheat. You haven't done anything to the precombustion chambers as far as I'm aware.

This is why DI engines are so much more efficient. They use a bowl in the piston as their 'precombustion chamber'. The piston is more isolated from the cooling system, so looses less heat; thus is more efficient. It's also why DI engines crack pistons when the EGTs are too high.

But you know all this right?

I'm glad you're pushing the limits and trying new things. But please don't mislead people unless you have proof of your claims.
Wow... please step aside so I can join you at the fountain of knowledge... just wrote an article on LinkedIn you should read.. B Raymond
Cheers
 
Wow... please step aside so I can join you at the fountain of knowledge... just wrote an article on LinkedIn you should read.. B Raymond
Cheers

I'm not on linkedin (found it annoying), so won't be able to read that, sorry.

I come from an engineering background also and have been modifying N/A and forced induction Toyota's for 20 years now. I have done my own maintenance/repair on all my vehicles my whole life. Most of them I've pushed to higher power/efficiency levels than other people have. You may have a solid engineering background, but I get the feeling you are quite new to diesels and maybe ICE engines in general. Why not be open to suggestions from people that have had years of experience doing some of the same things you're trying to do?

Anyhow, keep up the good work, and I'm going to leave my input at that.
 
They're basically identical from a performance standpoint, so I don't think this really plays into it anyhow.
I didn’t bring it up because of any possible performance gains but of the op’s comment about the 2lte being reliable or what not the exact verbiage was..my point and fact of the matter is it’s no longer a 2lte
 
Wow... please step aside so I can join you at the fountain of knowledge... just wrote an article on LinkedIn you should read.. B Raymond
Cheers


I’ll bite... link please.

I’m having a hard time figuring out if your serious, or just trolling the crap out of people... anyways... following.
 
I’ll bite... link please.

I’m having a hard time figuring out if your serious, or just trolling the crap out of people... anyways... following.
Mr. P.. real serious... too old to troll.. but I kinda look like a troll.. ha ha... don't know how to link you... can you help me with that?? I'll switch to my lappy n give my phone a rest :)
Here's pictures of the rig & the worlds worst co-pilot.. Bradley...at least he don't eat much..
never lose your sense of humor
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please step aside so I can join you at the fountain of knowledge.


It just seems natural that anyone who was about to build a 250HP 2LT would have the IDI and pistons knowledge all worked out. Any way, looking forward to it.
 
You sound like an engineer. 🤣 Thats not a dig on you, it just how all the engineers I have known and work with are. Until THEY prove to THEMSELVES they CAN'T do something, (to the better or detriment of reality) you have to just let them try.

I think as others have said, the IDI pistons could be your bottleneck (along with reliability) in making 250hp. Not sure how the head gaskets I'm not sure how much you are into this engine, but sometimes it IS better to not re-invent the wheel. There are much better starting points in engines that would give you way more reliability and higher HP possibilities and still be a cool Toyota diesel.

I'm guessing you are out to prove a point though ;)
 
Used wife's linkedin account to find @Ebike toter . For anyone interested, here are his articles: https://www.linkedin.com/in/b-raymond-84172a68/detail/recent-activity/posts/
So what did you think of design being art?? reclocked my turbo t'day.. based on feedback I received in relation to the height of the turbo oil return line... I like the results.. the guys ar Autozone gave me free run & I found a nice hose to complete the turbo to intercooler run...
I'd like your opinion on today's work..
a good design is never completed.. but always upgraded :)
Cheers
Old Setup..
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Today's reclocking of turbo
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My work around for boost cut- you may already know or have done this?

4.3V 1N4731 1 Watt Zener Diode | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand imeasured voltage at fuel cut(14psi) and bought this diode to suit-yours may be different voltage?

bridge this between map sensor signal wire and earth wire, its dumps voltage when boost gets hi and tricks the ECU no more fuel cut

you can see my shoddy soldering between yellow/black wire and brown wire-has not fallen off yet

1978757
 
My work around for boost cut- you may already know or have done this?

4.3V 1N4731 1 Watt Zener Diode | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand imeasured voltage at fuel cut(14psi) and bought this diode to suit-yours may be different voltage?

bridge this between map sensor signal wire and earth wire, its dumps voltage when boost gets hi and tricks the ECU no more fuel cut

you can see my shoddy soldering between yellow/black wire and brown wire-has not fallen off yet

Yes I've heard of that electronic clamping method. It's pretty effective, but the only problem is the computer does not add more fuel as the boost continues to rise beyond 14psi (as it's basically clamped at that limit). Also, one other thought I had is a resistor should be used between the MAP sensor output and that zener diode. This will limit current and prevent the sensor output from being basically shorted by the zener when it conducts.

I've thought of making an adjustable tuning box for the boost signal that attenuates the whole boost curve, and doesn't let it exceed 14psi (4.3V). So for example, you could run 0-20psi, but the ECU would see a 0-14psi boost curve with exactly the same shape (no clamp). Would need adjustment for different applications seeing different amounts of boost of course.

I've been using a air bleed valve for the past 6 years which also lowers the whole boost curve. Has worked well for me, but it's a bit confusing for some people to setup.
 
My work around for boost cut- you may already know or have done this?

4.3V 1N4731 1 Watt Zener Diode | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand imeasured voltage at fuel cut(14psi) and bought this diode to suit-yours may be different voltage?

bridge this between map sensor signal wire and earth wire, its dumps voltage when boost gets hi and tricks the ECU no more fuel cut

you can see my shoddy soldering between yellow/black wire and brown wire-has not fallen off yet

View attachment 1978757
Yes I've heard of that electronic clamping method. It's pretty effective, but the only problem is the computer does not add more fuel as the boost continues to rise beyond 14psi (as it's basically clamped at that limit). Also, one other thought I had is a resistor should be used between the MAP sensor output and that zener diode. This will limit current and prevent the sensor output from being basically shorted by the zener when it conducts.

I've thought of making an adjustable tuning box for the boost signal that attenuates the whole boost curve, and doesn't let it exceed 14psi (4.3V). So for example, you could run 0-20psi, but the ECU would see a 0-14psi boost curve with exactly the same shape (no clamp). Would need adjustment for different applications seeing different amounts of boost of course.

I've been using a air bleed valve for the past 6 years which also lowers the whole boost curve. Has worked well for me, but it's a bit confusing for some people to setup.
Thanks for the input.. I'll put both of your suggestions in my controls upgrades options..
"if it was easy anyone could do it"
Ebike toter
 
I understand that you have some experience , and grey hair , but also a fem program and you are able to use it .
So just for saying , did you simulate the exercise before doing it ?
The 250 hp , were the result of your simulation or a rough estimate ?
 
I understand that you have some experience , and grey hair , but also a fem program and you are able to use it .
So just for saying , did you simulate the exercise before doing it ?
The 250 hp , were the result of your simulation or a rough estimate ?
RNG. this project is scheduled for December this year for wrenching.. so it's still in the conceptual design stage.. so I haven't run any software simulations yet.. I need to receive the modded head & manifolds to reverse engineer all the mech kit..
So the 250hp is a goal, as the phase II mods are still evolving..
I will be building a complete engine..which can be dynod... just to prove that a 2L-TE can be heavily upgraded without destroying it..
Is your interest in my phase II project one of curiosity or???
awaiting your response
Cheers
 
just a curiosity following up this thread .
I have a standard HDT , in a 78 .
rather lazy , but reliable truck .
I will keep an eye on you !
 
just a curiosity following up this thread .
I have a standard HDT , in a 78 .
rather lazy , but reliable truck .
I will keep an eye on you !
The more eyes the better!!! Especially when I'm stumped with a design/wrenching challenge.. thanks for looking...
Cheers
 

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