Lj71 build up (1 Viewer)

[Nzpighunter]

Looking good bud! LOL - I did notice you had to let air out of the tires to get it into the shop to work on!! Hey whatever works! Did you actually spray the body outside? How did that work? I am guessing you waited for a calm day. I suppose the raptor paint would hide any dust as well, so no biggie!

Planning on getting 33s mt for it and the at tyres are getting pretty low on tread anyway dunno if itl bugger them sitting flat for ages

 

[Nzpighunter]

Finished stripping everything off the floor pretty much and sweeped it out. Crazy how much dust and gunk gets under the carpet must of had a buckets worth at the end. Floors in pretty good condition just a few surface rust spots from wires rubbing and scratches. Planning on repainting it before I put any deadner or insulation down. I've got plenty of 2k epoxy primer left. I was thinking maybe rustoleum to top coat? Haven't done much research of what to use yet if anyone's got a suggestions?

 

[Felde]

Carefully check this asphalt sound deadner on the floor (and in the footwells, too).
Mine was brittle and had some rust under it. I removed it with hammer and chisel (when really brittle it comes right off), treated the rust, painted and but some new butyl sound deadner.. Good work! Ralf

 

[Nzpighunter]

Carefully check this asphalt sound deadner on the floor (and in the footwells, too).
Mine was brittle and had some rust under it. I removed it with hammer and chisel (when really brittle it comes right off), treated the rust, painted and but some new butyl sound deadner.. Good work! Ralf

What did you paint the floor with? The asphalt deadner on mine still looks ok. Was planning on leaving it but I guess I should check under it while it's all apart

 

[prwillard2]

What did you paint the floor with? The asphalt deadner on mine still looks ok. Was planning on leaving it but I guess I should check under it while it's all apart

This is what I'll be coating the floors of my troopy with once it arrives and I do rust abatement.

Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™

Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.

nomorerust.com

 

[Irish11]

This is what I'll be coating the floors of my troopy with once it arrives and I do rust abatement.

Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™

Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.

nomorerust.com

Master series works great. I would recommend putting it into a smaller working container (humidity causes it to cure faster than you think) and also gloves, you do not want it on your skin, it wont come off, haha.

 

[Felde]

What did you paint the floor with? The asphalt deadner on mine still looks ok. Was planning on leaving it but I guess I should check under it while it's all apart

Check it. That stuff is tricky. It may have deep fissures, even horizontal between sheet metal and asphalt. A coating may only seal it off, trapping moisture in the fissures. If you plan to leave it in, I recommend to treat it with a penetrating rust sealant that cures and can take a final coating then.
My products of choice for that would be Oxyblock (a German product) or Owatrol.
For general coating of all metal surfaces I use Brantho Korrux 3in1, but that's a German product. In US POR15 or Mastercoat would be similar.
Great work! Ralf

 

[Nzpighunter]

Master series works great. I would recommend putting it into a smaller working container (humidity causes it to cure faster than you think) and also gloves, you do not want it on your skin, it wont come off, haha.

Master series works great. I would recommend putting it into a smaller working container (humidity causes it to cure faster than you think) and also gloves, you do not want it on your skin, it wont come off, haha.

Dont know if I can get that stuff over here. Looks a bit like por15 though? Looks like I can get rustmasters rust sealer which sounds just about the same. Did you prime or rust convert under it?

 

[Irish11]

Its like Por-15, its actually what the original formal for Por-15 was before they changed it. Its used in industrial applications to seal steel beams. I am not sure if you can get it over there, but Por-15 is close. You just need to top coat it with something, because it fades when exposed to sunlight.

 

[Nzpighunter]

Its like Por-15, its actually what the original formal for Por-15 was before they changed it. Its used in industrial applications to seal steel beams. I am not sure if you can get it over there, but Por-15 is close. You just need to top coat it with something, because it fades when exposed to sunli

Did you treat rust with anything before coating it?

 

[Irish11]

Did you treat rust with anything before coating it?

Yes, I wire wheeled the lighter surface rust, and used naval jelly on some of the deeper stuff. I had a few patches that needed to be cut out and steel replaced (which is actually what started this project), my front seat mounts on the driver side had been pushed through the floor and you could see daylight through it.

 

[Nzpighunter]

Yes, I wire wheeled the lighter surface rust, and used naval jelly on some of the deeper stuff. I had a few patches that needed to be cut out and steel replaced (which is actually what started this project), my front seat mounts on the driver side had been pushed through the floor and you could see daylight through it.

View attachment 3212143

Any tips for getting thoughs mat things off the footwell and boot area? Or just hammer and chisel like felde said

 

[Irish11]

Dry ice and a dead blow hammer. Works great. You need a few lbs of the ice. Put on thick gloves, place the ice over the spot you need and let it sit. It will become brittle, then smack it with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet (wont dent the steal below). Plus its kind of fun, haha. Here is mine in action:

I did have some deeper rust right below where the pedals sit. There is a weld seam there that got something down in is and had some rust covered by the sound deadener. That's where I used the wire wheel and naval jelly the most.

 

[Nzpighunter]

Dry ice and a dead blow hammer. Works great. You need a few lbs of the ice. Put on thick gloves, place the ice over the spot you need and let it sit. It will become brittle, then smack it with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet (wont dent the steal below). Plus its kind of fun, haha. Here is mine in action:

I did have some deeper rust right below where the pedals sit. There is a weld seam there that got something down in is and had some rust covered by the sound deadener. That's where I used the wire wheel and naval jelly the most.

I don't believe you it looks to easy gotta sort some dry ice now. Slightly dreading to find out what's underneath it all aswell haha

 

[Felde]

Mine was that brittle, it worked even without dry ice. I used a not so sharp but small chisel and hit it in a flat angle from the side. Hit the material, do not try to drive the chisel between material and sheet metal. This way there are minimum scratches to the sheet metal.
Probably one of the few tasks that works best in freezing cold winter ambient .
Have fun Ralf

 

[Irish11]

I don't believe you it looks to easy gotta sort some dry ice now. Slightly dreading to find out what's underneath it all aswell haha

It was oddly satisfying to do, not going to lie. It was definitely more fun than the rust removal, paint, and sound deadening after it, haha. All and all though I like to think the whole process makes a difference. Its reassuring to know that at least one rust spot has been solved.

 

[Nzpighunter]

It was oddly satisfying to do, not going to lie. It was definitely more fun than the rust removal, paint, and sound deadening after it, haha. All and all though I like to think the whole process makes a difference. Its reassuring to know that at least one rust spot has been solved.

the rest of my floor looks pretty good and parts of the mat in the back has already cracked and come off and looks sweet under there so fingers crossed. Bit of a can of worms fixing the old girl up. Take part of it apart and start thinking we'll while I'm here might aswell do this and that. Don't know if itl ever be finished or il keep coming up with more jobs haha. Hopefully get another 30 years once it's all sealed though. Il be dealing with the underbody once the floors done. Seen a bit of surface rust under the fuel tank which will be interesting

 

[Irish11]

That is fully how it goes, anytime you open up something to fix one thing it snowballs for sure. There is a thread on here about dropping and sealing the tank. Sounds like a good spot for moisture, plus mud/dirt and in turn rust to build up.

 

[Nzpighunter]

Yep

That is fully how it goes, anytime you open up something to fix one thing it snowballs for sure. There is a thread on here about dropping and sealing the tank. Sounds like a good spot for moisture, plus mud/dirt and in turn rust to build up.

Hoping il get another 10-15+ years without having to worry about rust or repainting if I go all out. It won't be driven all the time like it was aswell just weekend trips or holiday missions. Planning on building a carport this year so I can store it out of the elements and hopefully prolong it's life a bit more to. Yea definitely a good spot. I usually cleaned underneath the truck couple times a year but I drove alot of gravel roads over the years and there was a couple inches of compact dust and dirt stuck between the floor and tank. Haven't had a chance to give it a good clean as I was still waiting for the paint to cure but could see some rust underneath so thatl be interesting.

 

[Nzpighunter]

Haven't got much done lately. Need to get some dry ice and more sound deadner and some acoustic deadner but cash is a bit short after Christmas. Don't really want to start any more work on the truck before I put the interior back together as I have enough parts taking up space In the shed atm. Got some side lights off aliexpress that were meant to clip in but must be for a different model. fitted them with some double sided tape. I might mount them properly at some point or look for some to replace the old ones as I would have to cover up the screw holes and probably weld in some sheet metal to get them to fit. Seem to be stuck on pretty good with the tape though see how long they last

Did some mods to the bullbar aswell. Cut the old mounts off and started making new ones. I made the old mounts when i first got the truck when I was 18. Only had a couple bolts holding it and it would move when the scrub bars weren't bolted up, guess I was more worried about how the truck would look rather then how it worked back then haha. Pretty rough job glad I'm a slightly better welder now. I moved it back 50-60mm as it was a bit like a table on the front. Cut the sides down to give it a bit more clearance on the tires, need to get some more steel flat bar to weld on to the sides and to make the bottem mounts. Looks better I think

Also thinking about getting a custom grill laser cut and cutting the old plastic one a bit to fit it over top. I cut the guards off and ditched the trim under the grill when I first fit the bullbar and it left a gap about 50mm right along that realy annoys me. Probably should have cut it out of the bullbar and left the truck panels but I was young. Seen a few 80s and 70s with custom grills In Aussie that look good and it makes them stand out. Played around on Photoshop with a design. Il fab up some sheet metal to go under the lights to and paint them the same colour as the new paint. Got a mate who can get aluminium water cut for free so only cost me a piece of aluminium so worth a try