Liland all aluminum radiator (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The highest temp I recorded running with OBD logging is 188.6 and that's idling after 60 mph driving.
Temp drops to about 180 at 60 mph with outdoor temp of 90 deg.

I'll update once I do some towing but that is several weeks away.


The original radiator core is 1.45" thick and this one is about 2" 1.75" thick (updated). I cut a piece thin card board the depth of the core of the original and put it in the new radiator to illustrate the difference. See pics.


IMG_3183.JPEG


^^^ original Toyota radiator core with 1.5" paper gauge.

IMG_3181.JPG


^^^The same piece of paper in the new radiator.
Update - This is not a fair comparison. The tube plate is deeper than the core.

IMG_3179.JPG


^^^Inside upper tank. (taken with snake camera.)

IMG_3188.JPG


^^^Original radiator with side bracket.

Side.JPG


^^^New radiator side view. Bracket is integral.
 
Last edited:
I just installed one of these on my 3fe this week. Liland Global 1469AA2R. Holds coolant and everything seems to flow well. For the short width I loosened the nuts on this side bracket until the bottom bolts were snug then tightened up the side nuts. Seemed to work fine. Fan clutch is shot so still getting some higher temps when running a/c in 90+ degrees. Radiator seems decent. The welds look messy (though i wouldn't really know what good looks like but figure better than this) and the mounting tabs are welded on crooked but it works. Only downside it the flat aluminum surface sticks up in such a way that I find myself resting a hand or arm on it accidentally and the aluminum gets hot fast so that's always a surprise. Overall seems like a good deal for $195. The next step up was a CSF for $100 more so figured this will do.
 
The highest temp I recorded running with OBD logging is 188.6 and that's idling after 60 mph driving.
Temp drops to about 180 at 60 mph with outdoor temp of 90 deg.

I'll update once I do some towing but that is several weeks away.


The original radiator core is 1.45" thick and this one is about 2" thick. I cut a piece thin card board the depth of the core of the original and put it in the new radiator to illustrate the difference. See pics.


View attachment 2048497

^^^ original Toyota radiator core with 1.5" paper gauge.

View attachment 2048498

^^^The same piece of paper in the new radiator.

View attachment 2048501

^^^Inside upper tank. (taken with snake camera.)

View attachment 2048502

^^^Original radiator with side bracket.

View attachment 2048504

^^^New radiator side view. Bracket is integral.
was this direct fit? like shroud etc.
 
RFB, yes it's a direct fit. The shroud fits tight if you cut square holes in the tabs so it pulls up to the radiator. Otherwise there is a 1/4" gap at the top. Not sure how much that would affect performance. There is a small gap at the corner, otherwise not bad. See pic.

Correction: The core is 1.75" thick, not 2" as I indicated previously.

IMG_3190.JPG
 
@Clemson TLC did you have any issues with the transmission cooler nipple being too short on the inlet side (right side if you're facing the truck with the radiator installed)?
I just installed the radiator and its puking transmission fluid everywhere because the hose doesn't fit on all the way...
 
@Clemson TLC did you have any issues with the transmission cooler nipple being too short on the inlet side (right side if you're facing the truck with the radiator installed)?
I just installed the radiator and its puking transmission fluid everywhere because the hose doesn't fit on all the way...


No just make sure the fittings are tight. You can swap the nipples from the old radiator as well.
 
Last edited:
Hi @Clemson TLC

Your Post was very helpful and just in time for me :)
Do you have any new information to give on this Radiator?
after a Year with a lot of Summer time after you, is he running good if tough conditions off road?

looking forward to get your updates on it.

Rotem.
 
Reviving an old thread...

Any update on how this radiator is performing about a year down the line? I'm looking at purchasing this radiator myself.
 
Reviving an old thread...

Any update on how this radiator is performing about a year down the line? I'm looking at purchasing this radiator myself.

I haven't used the LiLand rad for the LC, though I intend on buying one. But I did have one for my 300ZX, it was impressive. I had no issues staying well below 190* in AZ heat even with the AC blasting. And this is a car known for overheating due to crazy heat retention in its iron block.
 
One year later, no problems. I expect this radiator to last longer than the original. No plastic or composite materials to degrade.
Still haven't towed which is the real test. The boat stayed in storage this summer since I was rebuilding my brake system, but now the brakes work perfectly.
 
One year later, no problems. I expect this radiator to last longer than the original. No plastic or composite materials to degrade.
Still haven't towed which is the real test. The boat stayed in storage this summer since I was rebuilding my brake system, but now the brakes work perfectly.

Hi Clemson TLC, thank you for the response! Since I don't intend on towing I won't wait for your towing experiment :cool:
 
Reviving an old thread...

Any update on how this radiator is performing about a year down the line? I'm looking at purchasing this radiator myself.

Where can you find this Radiator? I looked on Amazon but didn't see anything.
Thanks
 
Where can you find this Radiator? I looked on Amazon but didn't see anything.
Thanks

I bought mine on Rock Auto for about $200. There are definitely some fitment issues but it is working great so far. I went off rising in 95F heat on Sunday and the temp gauge never moved.
 
I bought mine on Rock Auto for about $200. There are definitely some fitment issues but it is working great so far. I went off rising in 95F heat on Sunday and the temp gauge never moved.

Thanks, what do you mean by fitment issues? Also looks like there are a few versions of them, but currently all out of stock at the moment, how many rows did you get?
 
I just installed a dual battery setup and a TYC 1918. I started the Cruiser the other day to heat cycle the radiator and burp the system. As it was running, I heard what sounded like electrical arcs. I could not pinpoint where the noise was coming from and thought something was wrong with the dual battery solenoid but let the truck run anyways. After about 5 minutes, the noises stopped. I think the plastic caps of the TYC radiator were starting to break-in and making popping noises similar to electrical arcing.

The fit and finish of the TYC is quite good for a $150 radiator. It's a 2 core and 1.8" thick but if I would have known about the Liland I would have certainly considered it as an option.

Sorry to derail.
 
Thanks, what do you mean by fitment issues? Also looks like there are a few versions of them, but currently all out of stock at the moment, how many rows did you get?

The overall width is narrower so I had to add washers between the main body and the side mounts to space the bottom mounts out to mate up with the holes in the radiator support. Also I'm adding some epdm adhesive backed tape to the shroud to close up some gaps.

Curious to see how cheap Chinese metallurgy and welding hold up over thousands of heat cycles.

Yes, we shall see.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom