Lift to clear 36" tires (1 Viewer)

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I have a set of 36" Super swamper's on bead locked wheels I would really like to use on my FJ40 build. I was going to do a SOA or a 4-point but I already have so many other things to do on the rig. I was thinking of doing a simple lift right now until I can get around to doing a SOA so was thinking of maybe a 4" skyjacker and 1" or 1.5" body lift? Is there any other way to do this besides using the body lift? Any recommendations of another path to take?

Should I just bite the bullet and go SOA?
 
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can I get some more lift by using different shackles in conjunction with the 4" skyjacker?

I am a newb if you couldn't already tell
 
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There are a lot of variables to consider here. Your 36 inch tires may fit fine with just a 4 inch lift depending on how flexy the springs are. In my case my 4 inch lift springs are so tight, and my shocks aren't really long enough to provide full flex. So even with 35 inch tires, I still have about 3-4 inches of clearance in the fender and full flex. The shock and spring are the limiting factor and I could easily run a larger tire with no rubbing the fender.

However your stock steering components will most likely rub, unless they've been modified. The outer tie rods are easily going to hit larger rubber if you do a full lock to lock turn in either direction. My 35 inch tires just barely clear, after pulling the steering stops fully out.

SOA will give you more flex, on stock springs, but then you'll need to go with a hi steer type setup. The mud consensus seems to be to avoid body lifts so I would rule that out if it was my personal ride. I suggest you do more research and see what some of the other folks modifications are when they run bigger then 35 inch tires.
 
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There are a lot of variables to consider here. Your 36 inch tires may fit fine with just a 4 inch lift depending on how flexy the springs are. In my case my 4 inch lift springs are so tight, and my shocks aren't really long enough to provide full flex. So even with 35 inch tires, I still have about 3-4 inches of clearance in the fender and full flex. The shock and spring are the limiting factor and I could easily run a larger tire with no rubbing the fender.

However your stock steering components will most likely rub, unless they've been modified. The outer tie rods are easily going to hit larger rubber if you do a full lock to lock turn in either direction. My 35 inch tires just barely clear, after pulling the steering stops fully out.

SOA will give you more flex, on stock springs, but then you'll need to go with a hi steer type setup. The mud consensus seems to be to avoid body lifts so I would rule that out if it was my personal ride. I suggest you do more research and see what some of the other folks modifications are when they run bigger then 35 inch tires.
Thanks for the advice.

Would doing a 1.5" or 2" wheel spacer help with rubbing whit the wheel turned?

I ran into a deal for $700 on a set of 4 36" super swampers on 6 bolt bead locked wheels and couldn't pass on it. Now I just need to make um fit.
 

pb4ugo

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I'm running a 4" BDS lift, extended shackles and an approx 3/4" body lift. I still had to cut the back of my rear wheel openings so the rears would not rub the back of the opening. The height of the opening is stk. I run a different frt end so I can't help you there. I will say I did have to adjust the wheel stops on the frt end so the tire would not hit the spring. My avatar shows the lift & 36x12.50x15 tslsx super swampers.
 
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Just make sure you can fit in your garage ;) I have 35's with Skyjackers (4") SUA and I have about 1-2" between the roof of the 40 and my garage door...
 
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Just make sure you can fit in your garage ;) I have 35's with Skyjackers (4") SUA and I have about 1-2" between the roof of the 40 and my garage door...
oh shi*t! Good point!! lol. I didnt even think about that.

I have Nissan titan with an 8" lift and 35" tires. It fits with bout 1 inch to spare.
 
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I'm running a 4" BDS lift, extended shackles and an approx 3/4" body lift. I still had to cut the back of my rear wheel openings so the rears would not rub the back of the opening. The height of the opening is stk. I run a different frt end so I can't help you there. I will say I did have to adjust the wheel stops on the frt end so the tire would not hit the spring. My avatar shows the lift & 36x12.50x15 tslsx super swampers.
How much lift do you get out of the extended shackels? What ones did you get? Any issues with them?
 

pb4ugo

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How much lift do you get out of the extended shackels? What ones did you get? Any issues with them?

I just measured them. The frt 1's are store bought & measure
4 3/4" pin to pin. I made the rears out of 3/8 flat stock & are 6" pin to pin. I have no idea what the stk length is. You get approx a 2:1 lift by extending shackles. add 2"s pin to pin and get 1" of lift. No issues, they've been on there for yrs. Tires tuck into rear fenderwells, & have slightly rubbed the inside fender well. No big deal they just scuff the paint. The wheels are 15x8 w/a 3 3/4" offset, which I don't think will work on a FJ40 frt end w/o a 1/4" spacer & longer studs. I think FJ40 require an offset of 3 1/2 or less. I don't know if 15x8 wheels w/ 3 1/2 offset will tuck or not. Someone else may know.

I think if you put 1 1/2 or 2" spacers on the rear, the tire will hit the top of the stk rear wheel opening.
 
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I'm runnin 33x12.50's and a Rough Country 4" SUA kit. + 5" home made rear shackle. I wouldn't go any bigger, just because the tires are hell on my worn out clutch, and un-synchro'd tranny
but, yeah I have a bit of room to play with tires.
1.5" spacers would be my next drivetrain investment for steering rub, and stability. they'd just sling lots of mud into my window
 

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