Lift shopping list (1 Viewer)

[ElPolloBlanco]

Looking at doing my lift in the next month or so, finally.

Rig is currently on 285’s with plans to go 35’s in the future. I’m around 3100 pounds on the front axle and 2600 on the rear in street mode, a bit heavier in camping mode. I plan to add a 4x4 labs bumper sometime this year with tire carrier and three can rack and we’re making some custom sliders in two weeks when my buddy can get a weekend off. My shopping list consist of the following:

OME 2850j

Fox 985-24-076

OME 2863j

Fox 985-24-087

OME steering stabilizer

5* caster plates

Stock replacement bushings

Extended brake lines

So what should I add? What should I change? I’m not sure if the j’s in the rear are the right choice. I do think with the weight up front they are. My idea behind plates over bushings is that a lot of people complain about the correction bushings and wear. Open to all suggestions, within reason, I’m trying to stay in the sub $1500-$1700 range. I don’t have 3 grand to spend on a lift.

 

[satchel]

I had to run a DC front shaft for my lift after making the caster correction on my lift which is just over 3" (4" j spring lift). You may or may not have to, but the higher you go, like over 2.5", the more likely unless you want to run a part time kit.

 

[chap79]

You will also need to extend your bump stops, sway bars, parking brake cable, possible DC front drive shaft. Plates are the way to go for caster correction as bushings will not correct for that amount of lift.

Your rig will have the stick bug rake, which I personally don't have a problem with. If you desire a more level look go with the OME heavies in the rear. They're the same spring rate just shorter.

And because everyone will ask, why OME with all that other options currently available?

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

I had to run a DC front shaft for my lift after making the caster correction on my lift which is just over 3" (4" j spring lift). You may or may not have to, but the higher you go, like over 2.5", the more likely unless you want to run a part time kit.

I’ve thought about that a lot. My DD is a 2014 Dodge Charger with lights and a siren. I don’t drive the Land Cruiser very much at all. I figure if it comes to that I’d probably do the part time kit as the weather isn’t that bad where I live. I figured I’d try it first and go from there.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

You will also need to extend your bump stops, sway bars, parking brake cable, possible DC front drive shaft. Plates are the way to go for caster correction as bushings will not correct for that amount of lift.

Your rig will have the stick bug rake, which I personally don't have a problem with. If you desire a more level look go with the OME heavies in the rear. They're the same spring rate just shorter.

And because everyone will ask, why OME with all that other options currently available?

Cost primarily, and I actually understand the information provided on the OME’s. I’m not opposed to Dobinson or any other brand, I’d take the equivalent. Like I said. I’m trying to stay in the 15-17 hundred range. I can’t afford something like a Slee 4 inch. I currently have the OME stock replacements and they’re having a hard time holding up the weight up front. My shocks are so old you can’t even tell what they are. Stock or stock replacements likely. I’ve read the ultra thread on suspensions over and over. I’d like to only do this once as I have an opportunity use a lift one weekend in February to do the work. I’m really looking to have a 3-3.5 inch lift over stock height. I’m okay riding ass high until I add more weight with the sliders and bumper. I might even add a second tank some day, but that’s no time this year for sure.

 

[plutonius]

Nothing wrong with the OME setup at all - easily swappable (like if you want to throw in 864's instead of 863J) and understandable like you say. I've been on them in different iterations for 17 years...rig's not a rock crawler but a base camp for further exploring if you know what I mean, and they are a massive upgrade from a stock sagging suspension. And I'm not saying that just cuz I own them and feel a need to justify a purpose, the bottom line is they've worked well for what I need out of my truck. If I was blasting washboards in Baja all day or on the Rubicon all the time, then yeah I'd look at something different.

One thing you may find you need are adjustable panhards front and rear. You might see your front axle shift left and your rear shift right without them, at least I did once I put in the 850 + 1. If that worries you, stick with a 850/863 setup and forget the J's. I'm actually swapping mine out next week for 850J and 864 and L shocks, and the beauty is I can switch right back in an afternoon of wrenching in my driveway, pretty easily.

And oh, add PB Blaster to your list

 

[baldilocks]

My fist lift was 850j/863, OME Shocks, extended brake lines, front sway bar drop blocks, 2” rear only bump stop drop block, adjustable track bars, Slee castor plates, and a dc front shaft.

This set up worked well for the money and handled nicely on the road. With J springs and prpoer castor correction, a front dc shaft (cheaper and easier than part time) will be necessary to achieve a power train that operates as smoothly as your stock one did at highway speed.

I prefer the more level stance with 863’s in the rear as opposed to the 863j, but was still a little taller in the rear than the front. For the couple times I loaded very heavy due to added passengers and their stuff, I had a pair of 30mm spacers to put on top of the 863 coils essentially turning them into 863j’s.

 

[Cruzerman]

I know people have different opinions / experiences. The amount of lifts needed for 35's does not require a DC shaft. Adjustable panhards are not needed. Parking brake extension not needed. Extended brake lines yes. Front sway bar blocks yes. Castor plates yes. Bump stops are not a bad idea. YMMV.

 

[baldilocks]

I know people have different opinions / experiences. The amount of lifts needed for 35's does not require a DC shaft. Adjustable panhards are not needed. Parking brake extension not needed. Extended brake lines yes. Front sway bar blocks yes. Castor plates yes. Bump stops are not a bad idea. YMMV.

Yes, but the OP told us the type of lift he has in mind, which does exceed the lift requirement to run 35's. Based on the J lift specified, and assuming the OP wants to actually wheel it with out heavy rear tire rub, ripping brake lines in half and also run down the highway vibration free with 5* of castor correction, pinion angle will be way off to run a standard driveline, and axles will be ridiculously off center at static ride height because based on the weight of his rig, the actual lift will be more like 4" unloaded. If dirt roads is the toughest terrain this rig will see, then 2" of lift spring and shocks will suffice.

 

[Cruzerman]

Yes, but the OP told us the type of lift he has in mind, which does exceed the lift requirement to run 35's. Based on the J lift specified, and assuming the OP wants to actually wheel it with out heavy rear tire rub, ripping brake lines in half and also run down the highway vibration free with 5* of castor correction, pinion angle will be way off to run a standard driveline, and axles will be ridiculously off center at static ride height because based on the weight of his rig, the actual lift will be more like 4" unloaded. If dirt roads is the toughest terrain this rig will see, then 2" of lift spring and shocks will suffice.

This has not been my experience. My buddy has J springs along with packers in the front to get rid of the "stink bug" running 36" swampers. He wheels the heck out of his rig. No DC. No adjustable panhard. No vibration. And I run Dobinson's that come out to a similar lift on 35's. Again, no DC, no adjustable panhard. Rediculously offcenter is an (IMHO) a huge exageration. Again, YMMV.

 

[baldilocks]

This has not been my experience. My buddy has J springs along with packers in the front to get rid of the "stink bug" running 36" swampers. He wheels the heck out of his rig. No DC. No adjustable panhard. No vibration. And I run Dobinson's that come out to a similar lift on 35's. Again, no DC, no adjustable panhard. Rediculously offcenter is an (IMHO) a huge exageration. Again, YMMV.

What sort of castor correction measures have you both taken?

 

[MDJ]

Since you have a lift at your disposal...

I installed the Slee 4" and found the need for more than what comes with their kit eventually. There's always work to be done under a truck.

Tie rod ends (555 or Toyota)
Sway bar links
Bushings: Make sure it's a 40+ ton press or you'll have issues with getting OEM bushings out. I did and my truck is a desert vehicle w/ no rust.
Consider: Rear upper (adjustable) and lower control arms (SPC makes a great set of lowers [also less bushings to press])
E brake adjustment
LSBPV valve adjustment
How are your birfields?
Clean and loosen drag link to adjust steering wheel
Check steering knuckles (and all associated) for correct torque (mine were a little loose and caused some wobbles intermittently)

Just a few things that come to mind. All of this really depends on how well your vehicle has been maintained in the past.

If you talk to the folks that make complete suspension kits at the lift you're wanting, they will most always recommend a DC driveshaft. Some need it, some don't. I wouldn't recommend rolling those dice. You've got 1700 to spend. Sit on that and save another 1300. Then you'll have some cushion for the things you are BOUND to need once you dig in.

I know what it's like to have that money burning a hole in your pocket, but I think you might be happier if you don't "cheap" out. I mean let's face it, the money is going to be spent now or later, right? You'll be able to look at your truck and know it was done thoroughly with OEM parts, etc.

 

[satchel]

What sort of castor correction measures have you both taken?

X2. If you haven't done anything for caster then your stock driveshaft may still be working fine, but I would imagine your steering will be all over the place. Even when I had the OME caster bushings my steering still sucked. Once caster is fixed back to factory spec, gonna have vibes with the stock driveshaft if getting over 3" of actual lift in my experience.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Yes, but the OP told us the type of lift he has in mind, which does exceed the lift requirement to run 35's. Based on the J lift specified, and assuming the OP wants to actually wheel it with out heavy rear tire rub, ripping brake lines in half and also run down the highway vibration free with 5* of castor correction, pinion angle will be way off to run a standard driveline, and axles will be ridiculously off center at static ride height because based on the weight of his rig, the actual lift will be more like 4" unloaded. If dirt roads is the toughest terrain this rig will see, then 2" of lift spring and shocks will suffice.

So would you recommend going with non J springs? I have no intention on ever going to 37’s. I’m just worried about the weight. I’d like to get at least 2.5 inches out of the lift and preferably closer to 3. 4 inches is just too much for my use as it’s been pointed out there is a lot that needs to be done to to retain good geometry.

For reference my rig sees a lot of the lower Sierra mountain trails. I’ve ran them for years on 33’s and over weighted springs. But, it’s a chore. I do make the occasional run out to the costal dunes or the high deserts, which the rig currently handles just fine.

 

[baldilocks]

This is 315’s, 850j front and 863 rear. You can see the 4x4Labs bumper and sliders. Not too much loaded inside that day.

With Slee castor plates and front dc shaft it drove nicely on the street and I could also do Rubicon in it.

As mentioned before, I did buy a pair of 30mm spacers for a couple trips where I loaded heavy with my sons friends and all there stufff plus enough food and drink to be away from services for three days. If the stink bug affect induced by the rear 863j doesn’t bother you then go for it.

If you don’t have to drive your cruiser daily, you have the luxury of doing your basic springs, shocks, and castor correction, go drive it on your favorite trails as well as the road to see what else you feel you need.

We here on Mud like share our opinions and experience but calling reputable shops like cruiser outfitters and Slee should get you accurate info.

I can pretty much guarantee that extended brake lines, dc shaft, rear bump stop drops will necessary with the above lifts.

J springs are paired with “L” shocks. You might look into Dobinson stuff especially their yellow shocks at $125/ea. They have less compression damping than OME shocks so they ride less harshly.

 

[Cruzerman]

What sort of castor correction measures have you both taken?

He has plates. Not sure which ones. Mine has bushings. Not nearly enough correction. I'm about to take off the bushings and put on some plates. I got them off a list member. I believe they are Slee plates.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Basically I run the same set up as your are proposing with 35's all a little more weight with no regrets. Consider adding a @Delta VS panhard riser in the rear. This will keep your rear end centered, minimize lateral travel, and limit body roll.

The most overlooked item when lifting an 80 is to loosen ALL control arms and links, install your lift, and retorque all of the control when sitting at ride height off any jack or mechanical lift. This will make the install super easy and provide the best ride once installed.

 

[Tools R Us]

Cruiser Outfitters call, a chat about your setup/needs is likely to be helpful?

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Thanks all. I think what I’ll do is get what’s on my list, save the rear J’s. I don’t have the weight back there for those. I don’t drive this thing but to run to the grocery store or to the trails. I can then go bit by bit from there. I’ll go ahead and add the bump stops and sway bar stuff. Drive it and feel it out as I add weight to it.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Oh, One more question, With the 850j’s and the regular 863’s, would you go with the longer Fox’s or the shorter ones? I don’t want to lose a spring fully extended.