Lift for 80

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May 29, 2003
What's a ballpark estimate on what it would cost to lift an 80 high enough for 33's....35's.(ome) -If everything is done right? ???
Front 850J Coil Springs $135
Rear Coil Springs 863 Coil Springs $135
Front N73L Shocks $143
Rear N74L Shocks $143
Castor Correction Kit $60
Extended Brake Lines $95
Front Sway Bar Spacer $36
Bumpstop Extensions (set of four) $50

So about $797 - Parts

Figure about 6-8 hours shop labor if your having it installed.
8 X 60 Labor = $480

This lift is about 3 1/2" above stock (assuming stock bumpers and stock armor) It allowes for 315 75 R16 tires with only minor rubbing offroad.
D2 - Chris indicates that lift will work for 31575r16 tires. The 33's you mention could be done a lot cheaper. The install of a lift on the 80's is really easy and straight forward since it's coil springs. The toughest part would be the castor correction and if need be, you could always take it to a shop and ask them to just do that afterward.

35's are not for everyone and to do 35's right, you'll need to address more. Panhards, front control arms, upper rear arms, possibly dk front driveshaft, 4.56 gears (based on yours' being the 1FZFE) etc.

Going to 33's is no big deal, but that's kind of a limit before you start tossing big $$$ into it. If you ran 35's and didn't have new gears, I think you'd be extremely disapointed. That's just my opinion though. .... also depends on if you're looking at 35's for trail only and your main street tire is 31 for example.

Just make sure if you or someone else does your lift to adjust your LSPV - load sensing proportioning valve - what dictates when you step on your brakes how much braking power comes from rear vs front. You want to be able to stop after the new lift and don't want any bad nosedives when doing a panic stop.

Let us know when it gets closer and we'll help you out as much as possible. .... especially if you're located close to another forum member.

A couple of additions to the above comments.

You can run 33's with the stock shocks and springs, not that you would want to keep stock springs. You can also run 33's with the "no-lift" OME kit.

I would add drop brackets for the rear swaybars to Chris' list.

                      I did Chris' install except not the J's as they weren't available yet. Works fine with the 35s.

                      Not sure what the big deal is with those J springs. You add a 1" longer spring and shock to get more articulation and then because of that you then add additional spacing to reduce that articulation so the shocks don't bottom out. Sounds to me your back to the non Js performance with a lighter wallet and more time invested?
Longer shocks have longer pistons inside. The longer piston creates a shock with a longer compressed length. If your lifting the truck that's not a problem.

Extreme example to show principal...

Starting with a suspension that has 5" of travel limited by the shocks. Now remove the shocks and springs and replace the shocks with ones that have a 10" stroke and install springs that let those shocks ride at about 1/2 under normal use.

With this example you will need to install bumpstop spacers to limit the travel and prevent the shock from compressing too far but you still have a suspension with twice the travel. Sure it would be nice to have a shock that would have more extension without increasing the compression point but that's very difficult to do.

With the 80 shocks:

N73 shocks are 614mm Extended and 354mm compressed thus  614-354 = 260mm Stroke

N73L shocks are 667mm Extended and 387mm compressed thus 667-260 = 280 Stroke that's 20mm more stroke.

With a longer shock you will need to limit compression a bit, but your gaining more than what was lost on the extension end. It's also important to note that a spring is designed to only compress so far. Over compression of a spring will eventually bend the spring. A taller spring can't compress into the same space as a similar shorter spring. Thus with taller springs you need to limit compression to prevent spring bendage.
Thanks Chris,
           All that for 20mm or about 3/4" of extra travel and your driveshaft scraping the swaybar at full droop. Well I've only read that your driveshaft will scrape, have you had problems?

Before I even put it back together it was clear there was an interference problem with the drive shaft. I cut a block and drilled some holes in it and this spaces the front sway bar down 1.5"

Also keep in mind that travel at the shock is not the same as the wheel. It would out to about 1 1/4" difference as measured on the outside of the wheel.

EXCELENT, I imagine you have a pile of those printed out and sitting on your counter :D .

It reminds me why I run 33's ::)

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=1612;start=0#msg27308 date=1058400410]
It reminds me why I run 33's ::)
.... because you have a small w - and it don't end as llet. :flipoff2:

C'mon Cdan. Buck up and get the 35, 36, or 38's :D Chicks will dig it even more and it will be easier for you to spot it in the mall parking lot. :flipoff2: :eek: :D

I'm fairly certain that if I were to tell my lovely wife that I need to get 38's because "chicks dig 'em" she would "understand" :eek:

Please forgive me if I forego bringing up that perfectly sound reasoning. ::)
Now that I'm looking getting an 80 (even before buying it), I'm thinking about the tires. What are the stock rubber?? They look small.

My 60 looks better for clearance (had a leaf added years ago) and the spare tire hangs higher.

Can I upgrade to 33s without changing rims????

Do I need to modify the rear lift for medium off-roading or just get by with tires?
Stock tires on the 80s are basically 31". The 91-92 models had 235/75R15s and steel wheels with an optional 31x10.5 on 15x7 aluminum wheels. However, it is rare to find a 91-92 with the 235s/steel wheels in the US market.

93 and up use 16" rims, all aluminum as I can tell, with a metric 31" equivalent.

33" tires will fit with some rubbing stock; however a thinner tire would most likely be better without a lift. Most people lift the rigs about 2.5 for 33s. Personally, I'm running 31" with the 2.5" lift on my 92; but I've also taken engine (3FE) and gearing considerations into account.

Yes, you can use the stock rims for 33s, unless you get too wild and go with a 14" or wider tire...

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=1612;start=0#msg27362 date=1058412934]

I'm fairly certain that if I were to tell my lovely wife that I need to get 38's because "chicks dig 'em" she would "understand" :eek:

Please forgive me if I forego bringing up that perfectly sound reasoning. ::)
Cdan - time to grow some harries. :D

That logic should work well with her you don't think? Just imagine what she'll say when you tell her you want a snorkel. Chicks really dig those. .... or maybe it's just the chicks digging me and using the cruiser as an excuse? ::) :D
Already got the snorkel Junk :D

It covers a dent in me fender ::)
Hey Dan,

this is what you need. 8" of lift, no spacers :D

Since when Christo? Are those 37s? They look small in there.

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