Life of factory lockers (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys.. newbie 80 owner here. Here is a picture of my baby, she’s a 94’ with only 164000 mile.. center diff lock only. I have an opportunity to buy a 93‘ with lockers and 311000 miles. I’m thinking I’d could buy the 93’ and swap the axles onto my 94’. I looked at the 93‘ today, but it’s for sale through an auction and I wasn’t aloud to drive it around. I started it, checked all the fluids, backed it up about 50’, turned the diff lock switch but couldn’t get it to engage. It has a new radiator, radiator hoses and intake hoes. It ran great as far as I could tell, started right up and idled fine, AC worked etc. my question is, should I buy it? What are the chances that there is something wrong with the diff locks? Thanks!
C7F08513-5855-4157-A459-0E8E628CA6C6.jpeg
 
Hey guys.. newbie 80 owner here. Here is a picture of my baby, she’s a 94’ with only 164000 mile.. center diff lock only. I have an opportunity to buy a 93‘ with lockers and 311000 miles. I’m thinking I’d could buy the 93’ and swap the axles onto my 94’. I looked at the 93‘ today, but it’s for sale through an auction and I wasn’t aloud to drive it around. I started it, checked all the fluids, backed it up about 50’, turned the diff lock switch but couldn’t get it to engage. It has a new radiator, radiator hoses and intake hoes. It ran great as far as I could tell, started right up and idled fine, AC worked etc. my question is, should I buy it? What are the chances that there is something wrong with the diff locks? Thanks!View attachment 2449620
Hey guys.. newbie 80 owner here. Here is a picture of my baby, she’s a 94’ with only 164000 mile.. center diff lock only. I have an opportunity to buy a 93‘ with lockers and 311000 miles. I’m thinking I’d could buy the 93’ and swap the axles onto my 94’. I looked at the 93‘ today, but it’s for sale through an auction and I wasn’t aloud to drive it around. I started it, checked all the fluids, backed it up about 50’, turned the diff lock switch but couldn’t get it to engage. It has a new radiator, radiator hoses and intake hoes. It ran great as far as I could tell, started right up and idled fine, AC worked etc. my question is, should I buy it? What are the chances that there is something wrong with the diff locks? Thanks!View attachment 2449620
Here’s the 93’ with lockers.
00900269-4A59-4D5A-81EA-8525F557985D.png
 
I would be a lot cheaper to buy aftermarket lockers and install them on your current truck. You could re-gear at the same time. I’ve use ARB airlockers with good success.

Lots of great reviews for the Harrop/Eaton eLockers. Look into them, you'll be happy you did.

Replaces the existing differential like an air unit would except these require no air lines or compressor and work a lot like OEM lockers using electromagnets to engage. You can even wire them up to an OEM locker dash switch. You can reuse your old gears if you want.

You'll need new gaskets and bearings and such in addition to the lockers. These guys can answer any questions and are great to deal with.
https://cruiserbrothers.com/harrop-elockers/
 
How much expertises does it take to install the ARB lockers? I also looked at TJM’s air locker. I was under the impression that installing a locker could be pretty difficult. Also, I’m thinking that I might get the 93’ for around $2500-3k. I figured I could fix it up a bit, put the no-lock axels on it and sell it for 3-4K?
 
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I started it, checked all the fluids, backed it up about 50’, turned the diff lock switch but couldn’t get it to engage.

One possible reason - did you put the truck into 4L / have the center diff locked before you tried to activate the rear/front lockers?
 
Are you 100% sure it has lockers (not just the dial)? The diff lock position sensors commonly go bad, can be easily revived by flowing current through them or just replaced, they aren't too expensive. If the seals in the actuator motor have failed then there could be corrosion in the motor, hard to say what is wrong.
 
Just grab a BFH and whack the Sh!t out of it and then buy a new one for $350. Just kidding. Probably frozen. Jack the rear end up engage the locker while someone is turning the wheel back and forth. If you don’t hear anything moving......

use the search button.
 
Have you found yourself in a situation where lockers were needed? If so then look at the aftermarket locker options. Nice looking cruiser btw!
 
One possible reason - did you put the truck into 4L / have the center diff locked before you tried to activate the rear/front lockers?

Nope.. ha never done it before. My bad.. I actually didn’t see the center diff switch. At least it wasn’t in the same spot as my 94’
 
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Are you 100% sure it has lockers (not just the dial)? The diff lock position sensors commonly go bad, can be easily revived by flowing current through them or just replaced, they aren't too expensive. If the seals in the actuator motor have failed then there could be corrosion in the motor, hard to say what is wrong.

yeah, The locker mechanism was on both axels. When I threw the switch the lights blinked on the dash, I just didn’t know how far I’d have to drive to get them engaged.
 
Nope.. ha never done it before. My bad.. I actually didn’t see the center diff switch. At least it wasn’t in the same spot as my 94’

If it doesn't have a center diff switch then you need to be in 4lo for the center diff to lock. Only then, will the front/rear lockers work.
 
Have you found yourself in a situation where lockers were needed? If so then look at the aftermarket locker options. Nice looking cruiser btw!
I haven’t yet. I have big dreams though 😬. School and work now, Crusier build this coming spring or next summer.
 
If it doesn't have a center diff switch then you need to be in 4lo for the center diff to lock. Only then, will the front/rear lockers work.
Thank you! That is good information to have.. haha! I will let you guys know If I buy it and for how much
 
How much expertises does it take to install the ARB lockers? I also looked at TJM’s air locker. I was under the impression that installing a locker could be pretty difficult. Also, I’m thinking that I might get the 93’ for around $2500-3k. I figured I could fix it up a bit, put the no-lock axels on it and sell it for 3-4K?
For some reason there are a lot of people on this forum that are down on factory lockers. Those people are pretty much clueless, and unfortunately quite vocal. There are many others with factory lockers that love them. Your plan is totally doable.

Flame on bitches.
 
The lockers aren't going to lock while the wheels are stationary, unless you get incredibly lucky, and the locking gears line up just spot on

If you can't drive it. Jack up one wheel on the back, shift it to low range, turn the dial to RR, then rotate the raised wheel gently and it should lock. You may have to turn the wheel up to about ⅙ of a turn.
Same deal with the front.
 
I would be a lot cheaper to buy aftermarket lockers and install them on your current truck. You could re-gear at the same time. I’ve use ARB airlockers with good success.

Lots of great reviews for the Harrop/Eaton eLockers. Look into them, you'll be happy you did.

Replaces the existing differential like an air unit would except these require no air lines or compressor and work a lot like OEM lockers using electromagnets to engage. You can even wire them up to an OEM locker dash switch. You can reuse your old gears if you want.

You'll need new gaskets and bearings and such in addition to the lockers. These guys can answer any questions and are great to deal with.
Harrop ELocker | Toyota 4x4 Differential Lockers | U.S. Dealer
I do like the idea of the aftermarket lockers. I looked at some of the reviews for the TJM air lockers and was pretty impressed. I also like the OX mechanical locker, but it doesn't look like they make one for Toyota. I typically do all my own maintenance and repairs, I'm comfortable with changing water pumps, timing belts etc, but I've never torn apart a diff. How technical it a locker installation? If changing the oil is 1 and changing the head gasket is an 8 and doing the piston and rings is 10, where would installing a locker land on that scale? :)

Thanks for the advice. I'll start a thread for my build once I start it.
 
SNIP
How technical it a locker installation? If changing the oil is 1 and changing the head gasket is an 8 and doing the piston and rings is 10, where would installing a locker land on that scale? :)

SNIP

I'd say setting up as locker in a diff will be right up there with a head gasket, but thankfully not as long a project. IIRC, some of them don;'t require messing around much with the ring and pinion and that wouldn't be so tricky. But if it were me, I'd let your trusted professional get their hands dirty on this one.
 
This will give you an idea of what is involved.

Toyota Gear Install Harrop
Gear Install Toyota

I'm a pretty avid DIY kind of person but I'd most likely ship my diffs into Zuk for a locker install (then reinstall them on the cruiser back at my house).
Not too hard if using your old gears. Don't have to mess with pinion depth etc/patterns. Good time to reseal /bearings etc axles birfs etc. I'd only put a dial indicator on the backlash-reuse carrier brgs if good (low mi yours should be)-swap carrier- reinstall with same backlash. New pinion seal while on bench.
 

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