Did you replace the AFC spring?
Builds Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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- Thread starter
- #702
Yes it's got the 30-35psi long travel spring off there website.
Are you nearing or at 16 degrees or did you mess with the timing yet?
- Thread starter
- #704
It's still stock at the moment. Just want to change one thing at a time and see what effect it has.
When I do change it I'm aiming for 16deg.
Are you going to turn it to 16 off the bat or start like at 8-10 and play with the mix first?
Also I highly recommend the LOKKA spool for PT, I did it a few years back and love it, well built and very affordable.
Also I highly recommend the LOKKA spool for PT, I did it a few years back and love it, well built and very affordable.
- Thread starter
- #707
Stock is 11.5deg, it's such a pain in the ass to change I will aim for 16deg right off the bat.
I'll look at the LOKKA kit.
- Thread starter
- #708
Yeah the AFC live gIves me control in cab of it. It's not acting as it should. I think this used turbo maybe acting up too. Maxing out at 17psi right now even with the AFC dumping in all the fuel the pump can.
Step 22 i think it was, it says to manually turn the screw before relying on the in cab controlls
- Thread starter
- #710
Ah yeah the pre boost smoke screw, I have adjusted it from barely touching the pin to all the way in. No change on pre boost smoke, I maybe dealing with a fuel flow or pressure at idle issue.
Thanks for the idea though.
Check this guy out, be sure to check his other vids, he ran mid 13's in a full size!
Not bad for a guy who didn't spend much at all, gotta respect that.
Not bad for a guy who didn't spend much at all, gotta respect that.
Super happy the 6bt is working out for you this round. That comment from your wife about sticking with it and being happy the truck was back on the road was gold. Glad you've got some great support.
Have you checked for any boost leaks on your couplers? What about exhaust gasket leaks? With as much as it has woken up, I noticed when I ran a single north of 20 psi it brings even more fun.
Have you checked for any boost leaks on your couplers? What about exhaust gasket leaks? With as much as it has woken up, I noticed when I ran a single north of 20 psi it brings even more fun.
- Thread starter
- #713
Thanks Boots4, your build and persistence has been motivation for my build.
I did find a rather large boost leak last week on a pretrip inspection. It looks like one of the bolts that secure's the injection lines to the head had worked loose and was missing causing a 10mm hole to leak boost. Fixing that improved things a fair bit, slightly faster boost and more liniar power. EGT's dropped about 150deg and are much slower to climb under load now.
Last night I used a Snap-on smoke tester to see if I had any other boost leaks and I found one coupler that was leaking a bit as well. The boost is still not responding as fast as I feel it should but it's much better than before. I'm also still limited to 17psi max, I have my boost elbow completely closed so there should be no movement of the waste gate actuator. This turbo is comonly run at 30-45psi on 3rd Gen trucks so not sure what tell road block is. I was hoping to be in the high 20's low 30's. It's not a fuel issue I can black out a road if I turn up the max fuel with my AFC live. Guess my next option is rebuild the turbo? I do not appear to have any exhaust leaks.
TurboPhil and I just turned up his fuel a little more and got gauges installed on his 6bt VE with 96 hx35W. it's pushing 42 psi without issues or smoke.
I can't see how the turbo rebuild would change anything. Issues with it would be oil leaking or blades hitting housing. If it spins it spins. Not much to them. There has to be more leaks. Forget the fancy tools and cap your system and hook up compressed air up to 40-50 psi. I finally did that and found almost all my joints leaked a little broke several cheap clamps tightening the s*** out of them. They need to be tight. This is all on bead rolled tubing.
I can't see how the turbo rebuild would change anything. Issues with it would be oil leaking or blades hitting housing. If it spins it spins. Not much to them. There has to be more leaks. Forget the fancy tools and cap your system and hook up compressed air up to 40-50 psi. I finally did that and found almost all my joints leaked a little broke several cheap clamps tightening the s*** out of them. They need to be tight. This is all on bead rolled tubing.
I agree, you should be getting into the 30s with that turbo. Here's a brainstorm of questions.
How are your egts now with playing with your AFC live?
Wonder if it's something silly like the turbo has the wrong turbine shaft in it which has too much clearance between the blades and the housing making it act like a much bigger exhaust housing. It was a used turbo, right? It's unlikely but who knows what the PO(s) could have done. Drive pressure can still open the wastegate (although I wouldn't think 17psi would be enough to overcome the spring tension in the actuator) so you could try hooking the wastegate shut with a little j-hook/turnbuckle in addition to cutting off the signal to the actuator.
Do you have any flutter on your boost gauge needle? Don't forget to check the tightness on your gauge lines as well for boost leaks.
For giggles have you taken a quick drive without the air filter to see if there is any difference in spool and max psi?
I know I've had issues with my intake plate sealing up in the past. I had to double up on gaskets to get mine to finally seal tight.
You don't have any blockage in the intake system like a rag got left in there
(...personal experience).
How are your egts now with playing with your AFC live?
Wonder if it's something silly like the turbo has the wrong turbine shaft in it which has too much clearance between the blades and the housing making it act like a much bigger exhaust housing. It was a used turbo, right? It's unlikely but who knows what the PO(s) could have done. Drive pressure can still open the wastegate (although I wouldn't think 17psi would be enough to overcome the spring tension in the actuator) so you could try hooking the wastegate shut with a little j-hook/turnbuckle in addition to cutting off the signal to the actuator.
Do you have any flutter on your boost gauge needle? Don't forget to check the tightness on your gauge lines as well for boost leaks.
For giggles have you taken a quick drive without the air filter to see if there is any difference in spool and max psi?
I know I've had issues with my intake plate sealing up in the past. I had to double up on gaskets to get mine to finally seal tight.
You don't have any blockage in the intake system like a rag got left in there
(...personal experience).
- Thread starter
- #716
Thanks for ideas Boots4.
EGT's with the AFC live are what ever I want them to be. The control is wonderful and being on the fly makes it so easy. Right now I'm topic out at about 1080f on a fairly long hill. All the big passes and real tests are a couple hour drive away.
Plan to wire up the actuator shut for a few tests and actually hook up regulated air to make sure it's opening when I want it.
No flutter if the turbo or gauge at all. I did check turbine wheel to housing clearance before I put it in and it's good, no shafts play at all.
No leaks from the manifold plate or air hore to grid heater connection. I also made extra sure I removed rags from the intercooler pipes app in assembly.......although it's worth another look with the bore scope.
Thanks for ideas, I'm not really too worried about the truck is a rocket once you hit 1800rpm it flies. I left a 1st Gen V8 Tundra like he was standing still on my trip the other weekend going up hill changing from a 50km/hr to 100km/hr zone.
I just want it to be working as it should.
EGT's with the AFC live are what ever I want them to be. The control is wonderful and being on the fly makes it so easy. Right now I'm topic out at about 1080f on a fairly long hill. All the big passes and real tests are a couple hour drive away.
Plan to wire up the actuator shut for a few tests and actually hook up regulated air to make sure it's opening when I want it.
No flutter if the turbo or gauge at all. I did check turbine wheel to housing clearance before I put it in and it's good, no shafts play at all.
No leaks from the manifold plate or air hore to grid heater connection. I also made extra sure I removed rags from the intercooler pipes app in assembly.......although it's worth another look with the bore scope.
Thanks for ideas, I'm not really too worried about the truck is a rocket once you hit 1800rpm it flies. I left a 1st Gen V8 Tundra like he was standing still on my trip the other weekend going up hill changing from a 50km/hr to 100km/hr zone.
I just want it to be working as it should.
- Thread starter
- #717
I'm looking at installing a CCV system on my 6bt. So little information for the 6bt in that department. I mainly want to eliminate the crank case smell when idling at lights and I have tested windows down. I do get a drip now and again mainly after a long hwy trip so eliminating that on my new concrete driveway would awesome.
I see most dodge guys just extend the breather to a couple inches above the ground but that's not going to work for me. Still get the smell and still get drips.
Anyone sorted out a catch can system with a suction tube to turbo on the intake? Had one on my Isuzu and it worked great.
I see most dodge guys just extend the breather to a couple inches above the ground but that's not going to work for me. Still get the smell and still get drips.
Anyone sorted out a catch can system with a suction tube to turbo on the intake? Had one on my Isuzu and it worked great.
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1. I read through your thread Wheelingnoob and I was just curious about your wiring harness...I'm in the process of collecting parts for my build currently and am looking into just converting the wiring harness myself instead of sending it to DA, I want to buy as few parts from them as possible. did you build the harness yourself or did you have someone else do it.
2. Any luck fixing your problems with the AFC Live? I'm looking into that for my build as well.
2. Any luck fixing your problems with the AFC Live? I'm looking into that for my build as well.
- Thread starter
- #719
I made my own harness, was very easy as this motor requires 1/8th wiring needed for the stock engine and transmission.
I have not had a change to dig into my boost or fueling issue, I think the AFC live is working as needed it's something else causing the issue. I need to pressure test the intercooler system still and make sure I don't have a leak.
I have not had a change to dig into my boost or fueling issue, I think the AFC live is working as needed it's something else causing the issue. I need to pressure test the intercooler system still and make sure I don't have a leak.
hows that cummins, im gonna try to put mine in this week.
